Here's a design of mine:
It is a true fighter.
BLADE
It has about an 8" or 9" blade (though 6" would also be great) that's 1/4" or 0.200" thick, depending on your preference. The blade is INFI, of course, that is double ground (both sides are sharpened) and is recurved. The tip is very sturdy, yet a great penetrater because of the double grind and the fact that the tip is actually the ends of the two edges of the knife. The finish of the blade is up to you (depending especially on what you expect to do with it), but I think a satin or even mirror finish would compliment this blade very nicely.
HANDLE
The handle is sub-hilted with the talon hole over the sub-hilt. The tang is full (of course

) and the pommel is
slightly pointed so it will be an excellent skull crusher (there is also a lanyard hole in the pommel). The handle is designed so that (with the use of a d-guard for extra safety) the user can choke down on the knife so that his/her index finger is in the first finger groove (the finger groove closest to the pommel), and in this hand position chopping is enhanced. The pins are your choice...for this knife I'd prefer large stainless pins (not stainless screws), but you could also have the brass handle fasteners that the Combat Grade has. The handle material I would like would be Desert Iron Wood or another exotic wood (for a knife that wouldn't be used all that hard), but for a hard user/abuser I would prefer rough-cut canvas micarta (tan would look cool

). The handle would be pretty thick at 1" thick at the thickest, but the handle would be very rounded. You'll notice the last 3/4" or so of the tang (right before the spine) is angled slightly up, and it would be great to have some file-work there for fine work.
I think this knife would be an excellent fighting knife, as well as field knife. The grind on the top of the blade is very obtuse, but the main purpose of this edge is to make penetration much more efficient as well as an alternative to the regular edge that can be used for jobs that would damage the regular edge. The handle is
very secure, and when you choke down makes the blade a very good chopper. This design is quite complex and difficult to make (double grind, finger grooves, sub-hilt and guard, thick and rounded handle, file-work, etc.), but at $100 an inch, it should be as complex as you want!
Anybody else have any designs?