Help me design my hunter!

Starkman1

Starkman1

Joined
Feb 3, 2006
Messages
329
Fellas,
I've got a knife on order with Lin and would certainly appreciate your input. I certainly don't want to ask Lin to make me a dud (very unlikely anyhow), but something I can show off that would be the envy of fellow forumites. Besides, if you folks like it so much...maybe I've established its place in the aftermarket....just kidding.

Problem is, after looking at the last few pieces Lin has turned out, I'm really not sure what I want anymore. Oh so many nice knives and oh so few funds. Anyhow, I was leaning towards a Damascus hunter, with a high contrast, many layered Damascus blade, length anywhere from 3-4.5", African Blackwood handle, with a multi piece stainless guard (alternating stainless/Damascus/ stainless). And a touch of file work in the guard.

There was quite a bit of participation in the Bowie design I thought it would be fun to do a hunter. Besides, I just don't want to have the knife completed and someone comment, you know...if you would have done this...or that... that knife would have been perfect...and think to myself....their right, why didn't I think of that.
 
Sounds like another interesting project. With Lin's talent the opportunities are endless. :)
 
If it were me, I would put the most emphasis on Lin's ideas. Who would know his strengths and weaknesses better than Lin does. If a bunch of people throw a million ideas at you, and you take a little bit from here and then a little bit from there, it would no longer be "your" and "Lins" creation. It would become a quasi-collaboration of ideas. Have faith in your taste in knives and faith in your taste in a knifemaker.
 
A SUBSTANTIAL guard, swelled butt for the draw cut, and a lanyard hole (integral in the butt through a recess in the scales is nice) are very appropriate for a dedicated hunter.
Don't forget the sheath: it determines whether the knife will be a joy to carry and use, what type of field sharpener will ALWAYS be with the knife (an integral sharpener pouch is very useful), and if the knife will be instantly accesessible or just another piece of gear to fumble with when hands are numb with cold.
...just my observations of functional features often omitted from "hunters".
 
Rust resistance. Light weight. Absence of small gaps ANYWHERE that can fill with blood and fat. A positive grip to keep freezing cold and wet hands safe. Durable edge to minimize the need to resharpen frequently. Bright enough in color to be easily spotted on a bed of leaves.

What style you want will depend on what kind of game you might dress. Do you need to field cape and quarter an elk, or gut a squirrel? Or both?

As a deer hunter, I'm attracted to small knives with 3-3.5" blades. I want a pointy tip for opening the gut cavity and for cutting out the anus. I want a blade thin enough to fit easily up the chest cavity to sever the windpipe and esophagus. I'm in love with my Burt Foster Blue Collar Hunter, but if I ordered another I'd go with a lighter handle material and a blade that was more resistant to discoloring.
 
I would go with Damascus. It stains less than straight carbon and has a nice toothy edge that works well on a skinning knife. Substantial guard and thonghole are essential. I wouldn't go any bigger than 4" blade. Knife should be comfortable upside in the hand also.
 
If this knife is going to be a user i would recommend a drop point style blade approx. 3.5" -4 " max.Micarta or G-10 scales, possibly Sheephorn or Sambar Stag for scales.Wood is going to be slippery when bloody or wet.And as mentioned above a stainless hilt and thong hole with a handle design that is comfortable in several positions.

Have you decided on a forged knife, or is a stock removal knife a possibility?If you go the forged route maintenance with the carbon steel may be a problem for you. I would keep any filework too a minimum.This will eliminate any areas that could hold water or blood that will cause corrosion.Also with a carbon steel knife i would suggest a hidden tang constuction for the same reason.

If you go with a stock removal knife you'll have the choice of lower maintenace stainless steels.Some stock removal makers i would recommend are Bill Ankrom,Rob Brown, Mike Lovett,and Schuyler Lovestrand.Either method produces great performing hunting knives.
 
I can certainly tell some of you have field dressed your fair share of deer. I do have several custom users that are capable. I should mention that this knife will more likely be used to impress my fellow hunting buddies, yet be ready to handle the task if needed. I hate to say this, but most likely a "safe queen." Unless I'm feeling extra special someday.

I am a hunter at heart, and would like a hunter with that wow factor around the campfire to help spread the word about the forged blade. Most hunters in my neck of the woods don't believe that such a "purty" (I live in S.E. Arkansas) knife is capable of holding an edge nor does it hold up to the rigors of everyday use. I would help to dispel some of those misconceptions.

I emailed Lin about this idea and he's okay with it. I do agree that with his "talents opportunities are endless." I'm just trying to tap into the many years of experience this forum has to offer.

Sorry "their" in my first thread should be corrected to they're.
Thanks,
Bob
 
Natural handle materials, and let Lin show off a little. All his hunters look good to me.

Dan Farr
 
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