help me get this screw out

slayerized

slayerized

Joined
Jun 19, 2001
Messages
125
how do you guys think i should get the pin screw out on my bm 42?

should i try to regroove it with a flat head or what?

anything would be helpfull at this point...

thanks


ohh ya and benchmade still hasent replied yet..
 
I've never tried this but I think it would work. Get a presicion flat head screwdriver kit. Use the driver that is just a little too big too fit in the torx whole. Then hammer it in there making its own groove, twist and there you go. Good luck.
 
You need to take it down to the local 'cool' machine shop or gunsmith and have them drill the screw out without hosing your knife all up. They should be able to save the threads so you can just replace the screw with the one BM is going to send you. When you're dealing will real small screws, or anything that's threaded, and has a chance of having had some kind of thread-locker put on them, you'd better have a feel for the torque you're exerting and better yet know what you're doing. They break, distort, strip, you name it, real easy and real quick. You have just found out the hard way................. :rolleyes:
 
D, the snag in your suggestion as it pertains to slayer's location is that Canadian gunsmiths are pretty wary of new guys in their shops, esp. when that "new guy" is asking about items contrary to weapons legislation. They're not likely to turn you in, but they're also not likely to help with anything on the shady side of the legal street unless you've already built up a good rapport. I imagine that's the case in most places.

slayerized, a 'smith is still the best way to go, but keep all that in mind.
 
This is such a small screw that it shouldn't take that much torque to get it loose. Are you sure there isn't a flat or even phillips screwdriver size (flat screwdrivers can be adjusted by filing), or even a hex wrench that could be carefully jammed (oxymoron) into the head to twist it loose?
 
Ok, this is what you have to do. I do this all the time at work to get carbide inserts out of tool holders. Grab the knife in a vise securely. Take the torx driver that is the next size up from the one that is supposed to fit and tap it into the screw. A torx driver with a handle works the best, but i'm not sure what your using. Then slowly with downward pressure turn the screw out. This works on tools that have been bathed in coolant, which acts like glue after it dries. Now that I think about it, there was a post that told us how to use a chemical to get taps out of titanium. An acid I believe, it eats the steel tap but dosen't harm the Ti. Try looking it up or repost.
Let us know if it works.
Think twice
Cut once.
Chuck
 
The acid eating the steel trick (muriatic or Archer etchant) works great, and leaves Ti unmarked, but I believe he's dealing with the pivot tube assembly and I'm concerned that the stainless blade might be harmed. See "mess" post.
 
The problem with chemical etching is that the blade is still in the picture. You'd have to be super carefull. Plus, while BM will probably give you the screw, they may not be so willing to give away the pin since it is a custom-made part and since it's not supposed to be customer-removable.

But, Mr. striper28's freezing idea may be the key. Freezing does three things. It causes the pin material to contract. This will actually make the hole in the middle where the screw goes bigger. Second, it causes the screw material to contract. This will actually make the screw smaller. Third, it will make any thread lock in there brittle. This will make that material easier to break loose.

By freezing, I'm talking very, very cold. You can get chemical freeze spray at most any electronics supply store (Radio Shaft, etc.). Machine Shop supply stores also sell even more powerful freezing sprays for just this sort of purpose. It's very common to fit a pin into a hole by freezing the pin and the hole and then pounding the pin in. When the joint heats up and everything reexpands, the joint becomes supper tight.
 
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