Help me not screw up on a forced patina

SC_Dave

SC_Dave

Joined
Jul 29, 2010
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I have read many post on here about forcing patinas. I have kept one of my o1 tool steel knives polished to prevent rust for many years but I think I want to try a patina. I REALLY don't want to screw it up. Looking for some experienced suggestions please.
David
 
You can't really screw up a patina b/c you can always remove it with steel wool, a sos pad or some light sanding.

I like two methods.
1. Soak a paper towel in vinegar and wrap the knife. You may get a patter off the paper towel if it is pronounced. Let sit for a few hours. Rinse well under really hot water. Dry. Apply wd40 or some oil and wipe down again.
2. If you want a really dark look, heat up the vinegar in a pan and put the knife in till you get a dark color. Follow steps above post patina.
 
I have used lemon juice to patina 3 carbon steel Moras. I spread it on with a qtip and let it sit for 30 mins or so then rinse in cold water. It gives it a cool look. I did two or three treatments to get it even and as dark as I would like. Plan on resharpening the knife afterwards as the acid will dull the cutting edge. After applying the patina I have never had an issue with light exposure to water or sweat corroding the blade, but I did rust one badly after forgetting to clean a blade until the next day after field dressing a deer.
 
Coffee, Vinegar, Citrus fruits, mustard, walnut (look up dave canterbury's youtube video, I have no idea what part of a walnut he actually uses)

They all work with slight differences depending on your application. As Hawk said, it's easy enough to get it off and start over.
 
Question: On highly polished CV blades does anyone scuff them with 00 or 0000 steel wool before forcing patina??? If, so does it help them take patina better????
 
Grump01 said:
Question: On highly polished CV blades does anyone scuff them with 00 or 0000 steel wool before forcing patina??? If, so does it help them take patina better????
Click to expand...

Yes and no. Roughing it up gives more surface area for the patina to form on. There will be minute valleys which will hold the patina better against abrasion; Versus a mirror polish in which the patina rubs off more readily.
As far as the actual application it makes no difference. A patina is the reaction of the surface metal with an acidic substance. If you're using a liquid or gas it will cover the entire surface anyways.

The only thing that would change the application is heat; that's why Hawk mentioned "if you want a really dark look, heat up some vinegar". The heat speeds up the metal-acid reaction, shortening your wait time for darker finishes.
 
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