Help me out with a work knife design

B

Brian.Evans

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I need recommendations and opinions for a work knife I'm working on.

1. Half stop or cam tang? I hated half stops on my knives, but I'm coming around after using one with half stops the other day with gloves on. Easier to use for sure.

2. Which two blade shapes? I have it as sheepsfoot and spear right now, but maybe clip would be better instead of spear. Hmmmm. I have previously liked spear, but I've been carrying clips lately and they are really growing on me.

3. Shadow or bolsters. I really want to do bolsters with bone, but a shadow in micarta would likely be tougher durability wise and easier to finish out cleanly making wise. Might just go with micarta on this one.

4. How do you feel about steel liners and a bird's eye pivot?

Ok, I think that's all. I'm excited to hear your opinions.
 
I just went from bolsters and bone to a shadow micarta pattern on a custom order for a EDC. Just thinking about carry vs worrying about messing it up.
 
festerfromnzed said:
Half stops.....Sheepsfoot main and a spear secondary would be awesome.................FES
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I agree. I also like bolsters with bone and other natural handle materials. With synthetics it can go either way.

I also like clip and pen blade combos in a nice pocketable size.

Chris
 
My favorite combo on a work knife is a spear blade with a coping secondary. I like spear because often they can be pinched open. The GEC 99 for example, perfect work knife handle, simple, easy to open. If it had a secondary coping/sheepsfoot/wharnie it would be a favorite. I like simple materials like ebony or jigged bone, but it seems that many makers are moving towards micarta for obvious reasons. 3 3/4 is perfect for a work knife to me, and I like top and bottom bolsters in case I drop it, I dont want any nasty cracks or dings.

in a work knife that does not lock, I like half stops as well..
 
for a work knife with two full size blades I'd use bolsters and liners for added strength, a blade with lots of belly, drop point, and wharncliffe if they are full size, birds eye rivet, for durability, half stop for easier one hand closing/ operation, and a durable wood like ebony, or canvas/ cloth micarta if you don't want wood
 
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Sheepsfoot and Spear or Drop-point, bolsters, and wood or micarta. A punch would be nice. How about an EZO blade? Sounds like an intereresting project :)
 
I definitely like one straight edge and one curved. I've been thinking lambsfoot and trailing point lately myself. (if trailing point means point in line with the back)
Aren't bolsters always stronger than shadows or birdseyes? Maybe a misconception of mine. Which maybe I should get over, since I have such trouble fitting covers between bolsters.
 
1. Half stop
2. Drop point
3. Integral Bolsters
4. Steel liners are great.

5. Bushing system for easy maintenance if blade play shows its ugly face. It is a work knife after all :)

Kevin


medicevans said:
I need recommendations and opinions for a work knife I'm working on.

1. Half stop or cam tang? I hated half stops on my knives, but I'm coming around after using one with half stops the other day with gloves on. Easier to use for sure.

2. Which two blade shapes? I have it as sheepsfoot and spear right now, but maybe clip would be better instead of spear. Hmmmm. I have previously liked spear, but I've been carrying clips lately and they are really growing on me.

3. Shadow or bolsters. I really want to do bolsters with bone, but a shadow in micarta would likely be tougher durability wise and easier to finish out cleanly making wise. Might just go with micarta on this one.

4. How do you feel about steel liners and a bird's eye pivot?

Ok, I think that's all. I'm excited to hear your opinions.
Click to expand...
 
Kevin, I didn't even think about a bushing setup. That would be ideal, but I don't have the tooling to pull that off.
 
For a work knife, I'd defiantly want shadow pattern. Look to the greatest working knife of all time; the sodbuster. Has a very very long history of hard work going back to the old country, Eastern Europe and the hard working peasants. And yes to half stops. As for blades, sheepfoot and spear are great choices!

And a lanyard hole!

Carl.
 
Kevin, it is probably folly to show my early pieces as I make them, but I can't help it. It's incredibly difficult sometimes (most of the time) and I guess I like sharing my frustration. Lol.

Carl, I think I'm going to go with a modified clip. Kind of a slightly more bellied clip, but more dropped point than a drop point. I've been studying my design and I'm considering a lanyard hole. I've always wanted a knife with a lanyard hole because I think they are so dang handy without being as obtrusive as a ball when not in use.

I'm hoping I can get my parts profiled tonight and maybe post a picture.
 
medicevans said:
Kevin, it is probably folly to show my early pieces as I make them, but I can't help it. It's incredibly difficult sometimes (most of the time) and I guess I like sharing my frustration. Lol.

Carl, I think I'm going to go with a modified clip. Kind of a slightly more bellied clip, but more dropped point than a drop point. I've been studying my design and I'm considering a lanyard hole. I've always wanted a knife with a lanyard hole because I think they are so dang handy without being as obtrusive as a ball when not in use.

I'm hoping I can get my parts profiled tonight and maybe post a picture.
Click to expand...

What kind of work is it going to be doing?

For my tastes, I like a beefy clip (think a slightly clipped sodbuster) and a low-profile sheepsfoot. Low-profile is key in my book- can't stand blades that make the knife hard to use when a blade is closed.

What frame shape are you using? Interested to see the results.
 
Frame shape will likely be a modified bose zulu spear frame. Beefy clip was what I was trying to get across, you just said it better. I think we're describing the same thing.

I'm really not sure on the sheepsfoot. I'm not sure if I can make it low enough profile, if not, I'm going to take out out. It might be out anyway.

As far as the work, outside, landscape, hiking, metal and woodworking, mechanicing, stuff like that
 
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