Help me think through my first tapered tang

[MasonOstrom]

Good morning bladesmiths! I am working on a camp knife right now that I’d like to do a tapered tang on. It’s 3/16” with a 4.5” handle and an 8” blade. I’m planning on tapering it by 1/16” per side. I like to do angled plunge grinds and have the front edge of the handle scales parallel to the plunge grinds. I would also like to taper the tang on this knife. Here’s where I’m getting hung up in the concept. If the front edge of my scales are angled when I go to do the tapered tang it will have to taper up to the forward most part of the scale, but I don’t want a noticeable bevel where the taper ends. Is there any way to do a taper tango where the front of the taper is angled to match an angle plunge grind/ handle scale or do I just need to be ok with the bevel of my tapered tang not matching with the plunge/ scale edge? Hopefully this all makes sense. I’ve included a photo of a knife I just finished up that is the same shape as this camper just slightly smaller so that hopefully you all can understand what im trying to do. I appreciate any help you all can provide!
Mason

 

[AVigil]

Mark the angle of your scale on the blade. When grinding taper hold that line horizontal to the platen.

 

[navman]

Here is my process, others probably do it more efficiently. Essentially you are grinding another blade on the knife

1. Drill all holes for pins/bolts, tubes.
2. Mark the tang with how thick you want the taper to be at the butt (I shoot for .030-.040)
3. Like you do for the edge, grind 45 degree bevels to those marks on the end of the butt. This provides a visual reference for where to stop the grind.
4. Use a small wheel (or the idler wheel of a flat platten) to grind out a trough on either side of the tang (centered). This reduces the amount of metal you are grinding and lapping flat.
5. I use a welding magnet and my flat platten. Grind, check, grind again until you get to about 1/4 inch away from where you want the taper to stop.
6. I mark the tang with a sharpi and go back to the platten to finish the grind, this allows me to ensure I am removing material evenly.
7. Lap flat on a surface plate or piece of granite. You can also use a disc sander to ensure the tang is FLAT.
8. For the blade to tang transition, you can blend (carefully) with stones or sandpaper.

Keep in mind I don't grind my bevels until after the tang is tapered and the handle scales are drilled. With some caution you can do it with a ground out blade bevels.

 

[navman]

Also keep in mid the handles will have to be re drilled to account for the angle you introduce on the tang. Otherwise you will end up with not straight handle pins.

edit to add: Adam is THE MAN when it comes to tapered tangs!