Help me!

HwangJino

HwangJino

Joined
Dec 2, 2012
Messages
4,595
First of all, new member here!

I saw that there is a lot of good posts here so I decided to make an account.

Little history of me and knives.

Been a sushi chef for a few years so I am accustomed to single bevel knives.

Last month I purchased a misono Swedish sujihiki 270mm.

Out of box sharpness was dull, so I put on 400 1200 and 4000.

Kept most of factory angle, exceptthe front bevel tends to widen eerytime I sharpen. Bevel is nearly a full MM wide, isthis too much?

My problem is that the misono cuts fish like it wasn't there, however when it comes to deep fried things it has a hard time cutting it.

My other chef couldn't cut through paper but will cut fried rolls like nothing.

What am I doing wrong???

All my yanagi's are fine but this double bevel is giving me a hard time.

This isn't my first double bevel as I have another slicer that 'slices' everything with zero issues (also this knife costed $25).
 
HwangJino said:
Kept most of factory angle, exceptthe front bevel tends to widen eerytime I sharpen. Bevel is nearly a full MM wide, isthis too much?

My problem is that the misono cuts fish like it wasn't there, however when it comes to deep fried things it has a hard time cutting it.
Click to expand...

Hard to tell without a picture. If the bevel face is only 1 MM tall, I think the angle is too obtuse. Ok, what is this suji estimated inclusive angle?

Guessing here, the bevel is getting wider near the tip because this suji doesn't distal taper much(keep the tip from being too flexy). With thicker behind the edge near tip, result in wider bevel for same angle.
 
I don't know these knives, but if you're handsharpening (as I do) and I understand you correctly, I think I know what's happening.

As you work a stroke towards the tip if you merely keep your hand at the same angle (SEEMS to make sense to do this) you by definition will widen the bevel as you sharpen the sweep. Instead, to maintain the constant bevel you need to raise the rear of the knife as you work the curve-- because you're not working the same plane anymore as you leave the straight portion of the cutting edge. The further you work into a curve the more you must lift your hand to compensate.

If you're not handsharpening-- ooops!
 
Welcome to the forum!

It cut fish well but not the fried stuff? Is it raw sashimi kind of fish? It is possible the oil on the surface is slippery and the blade doesn't bite.

I suspect the edge is not fully apexed yet (check magnanimous sticky post, for clarity). Another good points are videos by cliff stamp explaining the sharpening grind pattern direction and de-burring. It is also possible due to the thin blade (is it thinner than your other knife?) it still cut fish well but nit toothy enough to bite. Perhaps stop at 1200 grit?

PS: I'm interested on your work as sushi chef and the experience/learning we all can get from your using a knife for this task. To slice a clean and beautiful sashimi is a challenge we can learn from.
 
Hello thanks for the replies!

My tip is fine, the bevel is even from tip to heel.

It is just wide haha!

I'm not sure, but this knife does not like to burr for me, unless I'm on the 1200, 400 does little?

My other knives are mostly single bevels, they cut through anything but chip prone (why I bought misono).

Ask anything you want and I wil answer to my abilities.
 
Also I read that people 'microbevel' or convex, is that a good idea for such a thin blade?

I know micro suits thin better but looks terrible in my opinion. But performance over looks as all my knives are for work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top