Help needed

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DOC-CANADA

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Apr 14, 2006
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Since I ordered a CAK, the other day, I've been reading up on all the Khuk information, I can find. Somewhere (I can't find it now), it was talking about chopping with the 'sweet spot' of the blade. There was even a diagram showing the 'sweet spot'. (I should have bookmarked it :( )

Bladite also mentioned in another sub-forum about the hardening varying along the edge with the hardest area being in the sweet spot (hope I got that right :o ) I didn't want to go into details there, as we had already hijacked the thread enough.

So my question is; Is there a down side to using different parts of the blade for chopping? I have a Becker Machax (that I love) and if you're not familiar with it, is similar in blade shape to a Khukuri. I use all different parts of the edge for whatever I need, because the hardness is the same throughout the length.

Is there a link to proper use of a Khuk anywhere (actually, I thought that was what I was reading, but can't find again)?

Any other suggestions, techniques, etc. will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Total ignoramus :o (Doc)
 
when i first got the kukri, it performed very differently than my machetes... but as you'll find, the kukri wants to chop, and if you strike on the sweet spot, it'll bite deepest. The tip itself and behind the swell aren't good for chopping, but useful for other chores especially if you keep those areas very sharp, perhaps by increasing the angle on those areas and creating a more gradual convex grind on the sweet spot area for the tough jobs. I hear the very tip of kukri blades sometimes break off (after extremely heavy and borderline abusive usage)... but it doesn't prevent it from being a good chopper... and it's never happened to me.

Remember, even if it can be abused, you want to be as efficient as possible with any big blade... skilled use (even under rough conditions) should prevent it from getting hurt. Because it has an inherent high quality and effectiveness, it's up to you to use it well and keep it safe..
 
You're probably referring to this from the Lifetime warranty sticky:
scan0001-1.jpg


I find that the sweet spot actually extends a bit further back towards the belly on most khuks, but YMMV as it really depends on the kami who made yours as well as the individual khuk. The rest of the kukri isn't actually poorly hardened - just less hard than the sweet spot: probably HRC 45-54 while the sweet spot is HRC 58-62. You can use your kukri however you like, but during heavy chopping, the "sweet spot" will "bite" deeper, giving you the best results for energy spent while also suffering less deformation than other sections would. I'm personally a strong believer in proper technique, and getting into the habit of this makes you more effective at your task.

As for usage, I made this color coded diagram up to break things down:
scan0001-1.jpg


First off, let me explain my sharpening method:
I personally convex my kukris razor sharp all throughout (mousepad/sandpaper method up to 2000 grit then a .3 micron chrom. oxide loaded strop). I also tend to increase the angle at the sweet spot to make it more resilient to heavy impact while leaving the rest of the blade more acute. If you've ever read John Lofty Wiseman's "SAS Survival Handbook," he favors Parangs that are (IMO) kukri shaped and suggests deferentially sharpening it to give different "working areas." I'm a strong believer in this method for large knives, as it makes a knife stay sharper for a longer period of time (it's even more apparent with kukris that are deferentially hardened).

On with the actual explanation of the colored areas:
Blue: the tip and although not as "soft" as people seem to make it sound, its being directly next to the sweet spot makes it prone to very hard impacts if not handled correctly (hence making it seem "soft" through juxtaposition to the sweet spot). I personally don't make much use of this area except during slicing actions (like if you were to gut an animal, slice up some onions - or perhaps slice the packaging tape to a box containing yet another kukri :p). Being the point of the knife, I guess it's also what you'd use for a stabbing action, but I've never found myself needing to use a khuk for such a task.
Green: The "sweet spot" or hardest area and the only real area you want to use for heavy chopping. Although I sharpen this section to the same level as the others, I tend to increase the angle of sharpening ever so slightly here, making it less prone to deformation during heavy chopping tasks. Obviously since it's the hardest section, you can use it for pretty much any other task you see fit. Also, being the only section of the blade that naturally makes contact with what you're cutting (when perpendicular), you'll end up using this area extensively - especially if you find yourself using your khuk in the kitchen :).
Yellow: Belly of the blade. I use this area for lighter vegetation - from grass up to smaller branches. Since I sharpen this area more acutely than the sweet spot and since it doesn't suffer deformation from hard impacts (impacts that should exclusively be handled by the sweet spot ;)), it has an easier time slicing through springier objects instead of pushing it away like the sweet spot will tend to do. The overlap into the green area in my diagram just means that I inevitably use that area for these tasks as well (when swiping at a patch of grass for example) but for reasons already stated, the full yellow area is more suited.
Red: The recurved area - my #1 use for this area is draw cutting (by gripping the handle of the knife with one hand and the spine towards the tip with the other). Since it's curved and sharpened acutely, it does a great job at stripping bark or shaving wood when used like a draw knife. I also occasionally grip the kukri by putting my pointer around the cho and my thumb on the spine to use this area as I would a regular knife. Lastly, reverse this grip (thumb on/near cho, fingers on spine) and you're in a great position for peeling fruit (if you have a lighter kukri and/or your wrist and forearm can take it :D)

Hope this info on my personal usage was helpful and I'll be glad to elaborate if asked. That all said, enjoy your kurki! It's an amazing chopper as I'm sure most will already know - but as I've explained, it's also an incredibly versatile knife once you get the hang of it!
 
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Thanks guys, for your efforts - very helpful! :thumbup:

If there's anything else you want to share, please do. This will be my first Khuk except for some piece of tourist junk about 40 years ago.

Doc
 
May it please the Forum, I'll add something with regard to the "Red Zone": when I cut stuff up in the kitchen, I often start the cut at that part, and draw the rest of the knife on through. If I try to cut some things (carrots, pears, etc.) with the belly alone, the cuts are very rough.
 
I think there are 2 sweet spots on a khuk.

One is the area of maximum tempering. The other is the area on the blade where the khuk naturally hits when you chop with it.

You are better off if these two sweet spots are right on top of each other.

The tip depending on who made it is usually less tempered but you can still chop with it, it just gets dull faster.

The area near the curve is also usually less tempered but you can chop with it also.

Some khuks I find are not tempered far enough back so when I am using the back part of the blade you can get some bending. You can usually pound this back with a brass hammer if it happens.
 
You can also find the harder zone on the blade by running a fine file along the edge of the blade. The file will catch on the softer sections and slide across the hardened section. This was one step that "Uncle" Bill Martino suggested for checking out khukuris.

Killa Concept-That is a great post. The good graphics really help in following your section/use explanations. Thanks.
 
the unsharp side is of course the area you use for breaking bricks and cinder blocks ;)


Bladite
 
Nicholas said:
May it please the Forum, I'll add something with regard to the "Red Zone": when I cut stuff up in the kitchen, I often start the cut at that part, and draw the rest of the knife on through. If I try to cut some things (carrots, pears, etc.) with the belly alone, the cuts are very rough.
Click to expand...

I love using my kukri in the kitchen! The shape affords it such a wealth of different uses and grips. For example, I've found that the depression in the AK, combined with the angle of the spine, makes a great finger grip for cutting with a rocking motion. I also find what you say about the "red zone" to be true - I think it's mainly caused by the thickness of the knife causing it to "split" rather than "cut" certain things (such as carrots)... a slicing action instead of a pushing one seems to help remedy the problem to some extent as you say, but a kukri's thickness will always be a limitation in kitchen usage.

Perhaps a "kitchen" model kukri needs to be designed? I'm thinking 1/4" thick with a very broad head to facilitate spatula usage? I could honestly go for one of those ;)

stickfred said:
You can also find the harder zone on the blade by running a fine file along the edge of the blade. The file will catch on the softer sections and slide across the hardened section. This was one step that "Uncle" Bill Martino suggested for checking out khukuris.

Killa Concept-That is a great post. The good graphics really help in following your section/use explanations. Thanks.
Click to expand...

That's actually how I came to conclude that the "sweet spot" was larger than shown - at least in the case of my AK, Vojpure and M43... I guess YMMV depending on many factors. Definitely a nice simple test though!

Bladite said:
the unsharp side is of course the area you use for breaking bricks and cinder blocks ;)


Bladite
Click to expand...

What - When I have perfectly adequate fists handy? :p

I've always figured that the V-shaped spine spawned from the weapon usage of the kukri more so than the tool aspect... it then probably got adapted as part of the traditional design. I also bet that the Cho began as a choil to facilitate sharpening - the size and shape of it also being intended to be an area to choke up on for better control of the knife when using it for delicate tasks... Of course this isn't to say it doesn't have a religious element - that's just what I instinctively use the area for and figure that most traditions spawn from a practical point :)

But I diverge - I personally haven't made much use of the spine to be honest. I think I'd probably prefer a flat 1/2" wide spine for use as a improvised hammer if nothing else was around. I don't see myself doing combat with armored knights, which is really the only scenario I can see the "V" spine coming in handy for...
 
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killa_concept said:
I've always figured that the V-shaped spine spawned from the weapon usage of the kukri more so than the tool aspect... it then probably got adapted as part of the traditional design. I also bet that the Cho began as a choil to facilitate sharpening - the size and shape of it also being intended to be an area to choke up on for better control of the knife when using it for delicate tasks... Of course this isn't to say it doesn't have a religious element - that's just what I instinctively use the area for and figure that most traditions spawn from a practical point :)

But I diverge - I personally haven't made much use of the spine to be honest. I think I'd probably prefer a flat 1/2" wide spine for use as a improvised hammer if nothing else was around. I don't see myself doing combat with armored knights, which is really the only scenario I can see the "V" spine coming in handy for...
Click to expand...

not all khukri have a V spine. some are nearly flat, some rounded. varies as much as khuks do :>


Bladite
 
Bladite said:
not all khukri have a V spine. some are nearly flat, some rounded. varies as much as khuks do :>


Bladite
Click to expand...

Yes - my m43 does have a very flattened out, somewhat rounded "V." However, the only entirely flat kukri I can seem to think of is the Malla. I'm sure you can correct me with some other models though :)
 
killa_concept said:
Yes - my m43 does have a very flattened out, somewhat rounded "V." However, the only entirely flat kukri I can seem to think of is the Malla. I'm sure you can correct me with some other models though :)
Click to expand...

well, the foxy is EXTREMELY V'ed...

the BDC is very flat

the Sgt Khadka bonecutter i have at hand is a very shallow V, nearly rounded

the MachAx is of course, flat as a hammer :>

Bladite
 
My own m43 has a very nicely-shaped, convex edge. But the convexity gets shallower as you proceed from the point, back towards the handle.
 
Enjoy reading this thread. More genuine blade enthusiasts and less business interest promoters make HI standing out.
 
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