Help on BK7 sheath liner removal?

B

bootzon

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Dec 30, 2015
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I have a new BK7 sheath with the Molle back. I know the old sheath had ears or tabs on the side of the liner that was stitched into the side seam of the cordura. I called customer service to find out how the liners on the new sheaths were attached, and after checking with a product specialist, was told it was sewn in at the bottom of the sheath and not the sides. Is this correct? Has anybody removed the liner from the new style sheath that can give me any guidance?

It drives me nuts when nylon sheaths are designed so the liner can't be removed. It makes it exponentially more difficult to clean should you get any dirt in there.

Thanks
 
I think you are SOL. Can't get them out without removing that stitching, at least in my experience. I've seen a really neat mod that involved cutting the liner off and attaching a (custom made) kydex sheath to the MOLLE part......but it was a lot more complex than you probably were looking for.
 
Its true, the liner is only attached at the bottom. In the process of making the sheath the appropriate length for a BK7, I unstitched the lower part and was able to remove the liner. It wasnt difficult to take out. The problem was keeping in afterwards, especially after making indents in the liner to stop the rattle that bothers a few out there. I was able to solve that by putting little incisions into the edges of the liner.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1332333-Bk7-Sheath-Mod?highlight=Bk7+Sheath+mod
 
Thanks for the replies. I have found Velcro tape to be a great way to hold in liners. I have a CRKT ultima that used that method in their sheath. I have since used it on other sheaths that were glued in.
 
cEdge, thanks for the link. I remember seeing the thread, but completely missed the tab at the bottom of the liner in your photo. That looks just like the way the small knife liner was done on the old sheath, which I was able to simply pull out with pliers. A firm steady pull and the tab came out leaving the stitching intact. The stitches just pulled through the plastic tab. I trimmed off the tab and put Velcro on the cordura and the liner and she stays put until I want to remove it. Then I use a butterknife to separate the Velcro and it pulls right out.

Re: the rattle... I posted this in another thread and will probably post a thread with my mods when I'm done tinkering, but; I cut out a strip off a half gallon orange juice bottle to use as a liner insert. I cut it slightly larger than the profile of the liner, then I baked it in the oven with a couple of chopsticks under it to make ridges. I folded a "tab" that slides in between the back of the liner and the cordura. I keep a hex key that fits the handle hardware on that tab. Result; no rattle. Good blade retention with smooth one hand draw.
 
I like the idea of a hex key integration into the design. Cant wait to see the end product.
 
Ok. after examining this photo from cEdge's thread and a careful examination of my new sheath, I determined the only thing needed to free the liner from the sheath is to carefully clip a few threads and out she comes.
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Unlike cEdge though, I didn't want to shorten the sheath, cut the material, or have it unraveling. No problem. As you can see in the following photo, I have marked to area where the threads are that need to be cut with straight pins.

Snip the threads between the two vertical pins and in line with the horizontal pin and pull them out with tweezers. Using a lighter I melted the remaining thread on either side to prevent it from unraveling.

I laid the liner over the sheath so you can see where it's positioned before cutting the threads.
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This is where I altered the plan. Instead of using Velcro between the liner and the cordura sheath, I decided to use the tab and a Chicago screw to hold it. Advantage being that without the Velcro, it lets me slip thin items(like saw blades) between the liner and sheath. I also didn't have to worry about the adhesive on the Velcro holding without stitching it in an area difficult to access. I built up the thickness of the tab using a piece of plastic and Velcro so the Chicago screw would have more thickness to bite into and used a hot nail the same size as the Chicago screw to make a hole.
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All that's left is to push through the Chicago screw and tighten it up. Front
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Back
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Now I can remove the liner for detailed cleaning should dirt get into the liner.

The small liner for the BK13 pulled out with a little effort. The tab is much thinner and the threads pulled through the material without having to trim threads. I just used Velcro between the liner and the cordura to hold it in. The most difficult part is sliding the Velcro in place without the adhesive sticking to the material before it's in place. I used a couple of skewers to lift up the material and slid it in place.
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This shot shows the liner with Velcro attached ready to remove the backing and slide in place.
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The last thing I've done is to make a plastic "shim" from the side of a half gallon juice carton to improve the fit of the blade in the liner and eliminate the rattle. I heated in oven with two skewers under it to create ridges. I made a flap to fold behind the liner to help hold it in place and cut two slits and reinforced with duct tape to hold the hex key for the handle hardware. A little tweaking with a heat gun to adjust the friction and it works just like I wanted. Enough to hold the blade upside down without the strap, but not to tight to impede drawing the knife It's not pretty, but doesn't have to be because it doesn't show.
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Here you see how the flap slips in-between the liner and the cordura while the shim slides into the liner.
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And here it is in place. The white plastic gives a little easier target to re-sheath the blade.
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That's it for now. Still working on a secondary retention device that you see in the last photo. Not where I want yet, although a reusable zip tie or para cord through the grommets will work. It's just not as convenient as I want. More developments as they are, well... developed.
 
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That is a lot of innovation you got going on there, and some thoughtful and interesting ways to finish what you've started. Color me impressed....
 
granitestateofmind said:
That is a lot of innovation you got going on there, and some thoughtful and interesting ways to finish what you've started. Color me impressed....
Click to expand...

Thank you GSM. Being a newby, but having read many posts from you, I consider your opinion a nice compliment. I hope my post helps others. I have certainly gotten much inspiration from others here.
 
Awesome write up man! Nice pics and great job concerning all the details...anyone can do this now. I've seen a lot of posts about this but this may be the most informative go-to thread on the subject.
Thanks for sharing!
 
Thanks NCSlice. It's good to know the Beckerheads appreciate it.

... I'm just an old chunk of coal, but I'm gonna be a Beckerhead someday.

Here... Johnny you explain that reference...

[video=youtube;0akwt8VlYnM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0akwt8VlYnM[/video]

Dig the old flat back studio piano and the dixieland horns in the back.
 
Thanks cEdge. I appreciate your assistance. I liked your ring at the bottom idea., but it's not the direction I wanted to go with this one.

Next, I'm working on the handle. Trying a bicycle intertube currently and I'm still working out how I want to do a secondary retention. I haven't been able to get a large enough piece to cover the entire handle. The best I've managed is a 3/4 sized piece and a smaller one at the rear of the handle. Not real happy with the seam between the two pieces, but using for a while to see how I like the feel. A seam between the center bolt and the blade doesn't work for me. I don't care for the edge of the tube rolls under my thumb. I wish I could figure out a way to slip one continuous piece over it. To get what I did required me to take the handles off, slip the two sides in the tube, use a screwdriver to part the halves enough to get the tang back in between so it can be repositioned, then roll it up to put hardware back. I do like the looks of the hidden hardware.

I must say I like this sheath. I personally would like some tweaks, but understand those would raise the costs. I'd say it's a good value and provides a solid platform for desired customization and personalization. I think claims that it stinks (or worse) are not fair or accurate at all.
 
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