Help on Family Knife

A

alasker00

Joined
Dec 10, 2015
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37
Hey all,
So I have been trying to get started on some basic knife skills, and my grandfather heard about it. He sent me a knife that my great uncle made several years ago. I suspect it is a Scottish boot knife. Anyway, the scales on it (not sure what they were, some plastic things) were cracked and he wanted me to replace them. I'm trying to do this as professional as possible but I'm running into some problems
Here's the knife
wlLCny6.jpg


I made a trial scale for it (still super rough)
P7OSoDv.jpg


Just to give an idea of were my skill level is....... (like nothing)
QHPDuZq.jpg


These are the first two knives I ever made, I just finished the wooden one. they were both made out of scrap metal I got from a neighbor.
I'm just showing you so you can see that my skill level is super low and I really do need help with this.

As for my problem, I need to find a way to affix the scales to the knife. I don't want to just use a small metal rod as a pin like with my super rough knife with epoxy. I need something for professional. the knife had like these screw with but with caps. It was interesting but I don't have a picture. So what can I use to affix the handle to the knife?
And what should I do for the handle? The one in the picture it one I carved out of some scrap mahogany and sanded, but I'm not really sure if I should be using something else for this. Should I just use the wood? And what kind of pins should I use? Thanks a lot, and I think I posted the pics right but lmk if I didn't. I used imgur.

p.s. pls tons of critiquing on my first two knives (I know what they look like lol), I'm open to all constructive criticism.
 
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I'm going to use multiple posts because for whatever reason this forum won't let me post a long post-

When I look at a situation like this (how to attach the handles), I think of what I would do. And here's what I would do-

I don't like pins, they're to permanent for my tastes. I like being able to take a knife apart whenever I feel like it. So I use screws, threaded posts. and/or threaded standoffs (barrels).

If I were putting handles on that knife I would buy a pair of stainless steel threaded standoffs (they're basically just short pieces of tubing threaded on the inside). I would try to buy ones that are the same diameter as the tang holes in the blade, and choose ones that are just a little shorter than the full thickness of the tang and finished handle scales. If necessary I would file the standoffs shorter to get them to the preferred length.
 
Part 2.

Stainless steel threaded standoffs are available in a variety of diameters and in standard measurements- 7/64", 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", etc, and in a variety of standard lengths. They are rather inexpensive, around $2 a piece, more if you buy them with a pair of screws.
 
I'll try to finish later. BF is really screwed for me today.
 
Part 3. Insert the standoffs through the holes (tang and scales), then install a torx screw into each end of the standoff. I would also counter bore the holes in the scales so that the screw heads would seat below the scale surface. But this isn't a necessary step, and it requires a counter bore drill bit.

I also like screws because I can precisely control how tight they are, and without having to hammer on a knife.
 
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It looks like the knife may have originally used "cutlers rivets." These are 2 part rivets that are hammered together. You have to slightly countersink the holes in the handle.
Don't use scrap wood. Go to one of the knifemakers supply sites and buy quality handle materials. The rivets will be available there, too.
 
Part 4. I don't know what size the holes are in the tang of that knife, but if necessary I would drill them larger in order to accommodate the next larger size diameter of standoff for a more precise fit.
 
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Part 5. You can use drill bits to measure the inside diameter of the tang holes and choose the appropriate sized standoff, or in the case of what Bill suggested, rivets.

If for example a 3/16" drill bit fits best through the tang holes, with very little wiggle room, then you would need 3/16" standoffs or rivets. You'd want the fit to be as close as possible.
 
That's what I would do. If you have any questions about what I posted I'd be happy to answer them. And if you want to know where to order standoffs, or torx screws, or a counter bore drill bit, I can recommend a few places where I shop.

I tried to post all this last night. Typed it out at least 8 times. But BF wouldn't let me post, and it wouldn't save my work. Lost it all each time I tried posting.

Attaching handle scales is easier than posting on Bladeforums sometimes.
 
Ok thanks James. ill figure out how to move the thread if that's possible. And killgar thanks alot sorry it was being so annoying but thanks so much the info is great. I think it previously had more along of what you were saying. It seemed like it was a threaded screw with a thick head if you will. that went through both handles to the other side, were a cap that looked like the head of the screw kept it all together. The scales had had holes drilled in them to match the width of both the narrow screw and then on the top side the thick head. I hope that explains it. As or counter boring I dont think he did that so thats an option for me. there are grooves from the previous screw but not actual threading. It looks like he used locktite or something. Is that common? I would really like to know were you shop as well. I was trying not to buy much but i ink that's not feasible in this line of work. Summer jobs will get me through it all i suppose.
 
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Bill DeShivs said:
It looks like the knife may have originally used "cutlers rivets." These are 2 part rivets that are hammered together. You have to slightly countersink the holes in the handle.
Don't use scrap wood. Go to one of the knifemakers supply sites and buy quality handle materials. The rivets will be available there, too.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill. What does the countersinking accomplish? And I was trying to go ona low budget but i dont think that will work THe scale i made is out of solid mahogany, but i really don't think thats proper scale material haha. And what is your opinion on the other two knives? Any tips? Im new so im just trying to get some feedback for future endeavors
thanks
 
What you describe regarding the original screws are what I refer to as threaded posts. They are basically a tubular nut with a screw head. I use those for various knives, but I think you might have an easier time finding standoffs that fit more precisely.

I buy a lot of my knife parts from Knifekits.com, and USAKnifemaker.com. They sell all kinds of materials for making and working on knives (including a wide selection of handle materials). Those two places sell folder pivots which are basically the same as standoffs (small threaded tubes), and they each sell a variety of screws and counter boring drill bits (also referred to as "step" drills).

I also do a lot of shopping at McMaster.com. They're a big online hardware store that sells a lot of stuff you won't find at Home Dept, etc. They sell standoffs, screws, drill bits, and lots of other stuff.

And yes, using Loctite/threadlocker is common in knives. Blue Loctite/threadlocker is my preferred choice for securing screws. But if the screws aren't being used with moving parts (like a blade pivot), and if the screws thread and seat snugly when tightened, then threadlocker isn't always necessary. I have fixed-blades with no threadlocker on the handle screws and they never come loose.
 
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Countersinking allows the rivet heads (or screw heads, etc.,) to be flush with or below the handle surface.

The other two things are sort of shaped like knives. Knives are not flat pieces of steel with sharply beveled edges, they have much more bevel area. Keep working at it.
 
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