Help on first anodize

K Robinson

K Robinson

Joined
Nov 8, 1999
Messages
673
Tomorrow I am going to try my first anodize and wanted to get advice before I went off of the deep end' just a couple of questions.
1)I've read differing statments on Acid and water ratio 50/50 and 70/30, what works best.
2)Dye Water ratio, have not been able to find any information on this.
3)Electrolysis bath--again I have read conflicting opinions on the amount of time to leave the part in the bath.10 to 15 min all the way up to 40 min.
That's about all of the question's (Thank God huh)
Any other tip's or trick's of the trade would be greatly appreciated (I know always add acid to water never the reverse)

Thanks in advance to all who take the time to post.

Kevin.
 
Dr Lathe
Yes my first will be aluminum but will be working with Titanum next, any info on that process would be great also.

Thanks.
Kevin.
 
K, I have never done either, but having a degree in chemistry helps me dispense advice!
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The process for anodizing both metals is completely different. As you already know, anodizing aluminum results in a hardened outer layer that is clear unless dyes are added.
With titanium, the color is coming from the metal itself, as the crystal structure is changed the metal reflects a different color of the spectrum. Anodizing titanium is an easier process from the standpoint that you don't need acid and you don't need chemicals to do it. You use a bath of TSP (?) or diet Coke, and rig up elctrodes to the titanium piece itself as well as a metal screen in the bath. You will get more specific info than this, BTW, I'm just helping get the ball rolling!
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Using different voltages will produce different colors. Low voltage colors will not pollute the high voltage colors, either, so if you want to use several colors on one piece, all you do is color using the highest voltage, then remove the anodized layer using a rubber polishing wheel or some other means, then step down to the next highest voltage, which will anodize the new color over the part you removed the previous color from. Colors can change depending on the solvent characteristics of your bath, so results are somewhat variable. All you need is the power source and a simple bath structure and you're good to go, though! The one downfall to anodizing the reactive metals (titanium niobium, etc) is the absence of true red. Because of the structure of the metals you simply can't get a true red color. You'll get more info, but a good place to start is: www.reactivemetals.com


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My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
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Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
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I have some pages I copied out of a library book on sand casting. On the last page, it gives instructions for coloring copper, brass, bronze, iron, and aluminum. Aluminum is the easiest.Heres what it says verbatum.
Aluminum Alloys
All Colors. Dip the object into a solution of 2 table spoons of lye to 1 quart of cold water for 1 to 2 minutes. Then immurse the metal in household dye of the desired color, mixed according to the manufacturer's instructions. When the desired depth of color is achieved, rinse in cold water.
I tried it once with a scrap piece of aluminum and blue dye and it worked fine. Hope it works for all who try it. Take care! Michael

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
L6, very interesting. From what I know, though, it may be tougher than that to get really good results. Most hosehold dyes will work, but there are several considerations:
1) Size of the pores made during anodizing vs. size of the dye molecules. I would assume that this ratio is important for the deepness of the color, as well as how effectively it colors.
2) Color-fastness of the dye. Not every dye will be resistant to washing out, fading in the sun, etc. I know hobbyists and metal artists use special dyes designed for aluminum to insure the color will be of good quality, as well as last for as long as possible.
One idea would be to contact local colleges, both community, state, and private. When I was a student at University of Northern Iowa I took an art elective that was metal working. I wasn't in to knives then...too bad! They will have the know-how and facilities to anodize stuff in large amounts. They may be willing to enroll you in a class to learn how to do it best, or even let you use their facilities if the teacher is cool with the project. A student may be willing to do the work for you, also, for a few bucks. I've never known a college student that wasn't willing to work their butts off for a few extra bucks. Worth a try!

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My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/kydex.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html
 
I have put off my first anodize until Monday I am off that week and I can take my time and practice
I also wanted to thank all that replyed for all the advice it has helped a great deal.
I will have results monday night for anyone interested.

Kevin.
 
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