Help on how to attach thin steel butt on Bowie

RyanW

RyanW

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I am considering making a hidden tang bowie with a piece of Elk round that I have. I would like to attach a thin steel plate on the butt, but am unsure on how to attach it. I am familiar with threading one on when thicker or having a "Nut" to thread into.

I found an Example of what I am talking about from Mr. D. Fogg
StagBowieComp_copy.jpg

Thanks in advance.
Ryan W.
 
Probably welded all thread to the thin plate then epoxy them into insets in the handle. This is how I have seen it done in the past.
 
Take a flat head 1/4" bolt and solder or braze it to the plate. Trim the bolt so about 3/4" sticks out. Drill a hole in the elk and epoxy the butt plate on. File/grind/sand to a perfect fit. Don't go too thin, about 1/8" looks good.
 
I have seen similar pieces with small screws holding the plate on. Two slotted head screws "timed" or clocked I think is a very elegant touch.


-Xander
 
I would use screws or small nails with epoxy and fasten right through the plate into the grip. They can be placed and the heads shaped to create a nice effect.
 
silver braise a nut to the underside of the plate and thread your tang. Not easy, but effective.
 
I am going to vote that Don's bowie is a threaded tang and the buttcap is screwed to it and shaped afterwards. You can get it all set to where you like it and then fill the handle with epoxy. After epoxy, you can finish profiling the butt cap and i think you will be amazed at the strength of it.
 
This question is invariably answered with the "brazed screw/epoxy" idea... but I really don't like the idea of it just being stuck on there like that. When I do thin pommels, I braze/high-temp solder/weld a threaded stand-off to the pommel material. Then the end of the tang is threaded and the pommel's stand-off is threaded onto the tang. It's a ROYAL PITA to fit this up for a perfect fit (most of the time for me anyway) but I think it's far superior to the alternative. :)
 
NickWheeler said:
This question is invariably answered with the "brazed screw/epoxy" idea... but I really don't like the idea of it just being stuck on there like that. When I do thin pommels, I braze/high-temp solder/weld a threaded stand-off to the pommel material. Then the end of the tang is threaded and the pommel's stand-off is threaded onto the tang. It's a ROYAL PITA to fit this up for a perfect fit (most of the time for me anyway) but I think it's far superior to the alternative. :)
Click to expand...
Agreed, Nick. Plus, I don't like knives with buttcaps and pins through the handle if you are using a stag carver.
 
Thanks everyone for the Help, It will be a little while before I give this a shot.

Nick I think I will give your method a shot, I would be concerned with a Nut epoxied or even soldered to the underside of the butt plate, I am sure this works but my soldering skills are lacking. I will see if I can weld up a few and test them before committing to it.

Mike I was thinking along the same lines, leave the plate wide on all sides then set in place then contour to the Handle material. I will not be making this a break down model so things lining up exactly the same when threaded back on will not be a concern.
 
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