Help on how to make a convex edge

Joined
Jan 19, 2007
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165
With all the recent discusion on the superiority of a convex edge, is there a simple process in converting an existing edge into convex ? My use of the word " simple " does not involve belts or use of wheels. Any direction would be appreciated.
 
Freehand sharpening will tend to convex an edge just from not keeping the blade at a consistent angle. Stropping will help it along. Neither method is quick. That is why most makers that put a convex grind on their knives do it with a belt sander.
 
sandpaper and a mousepad or strop. there was a link in the other thread that shows you the basic motions.
 
Freehand sharpening on most benchstones (diamond, oil, water) will do it. Your joints move in arcs, your hands have compressive tissue, and your nervous system can only maintain a steady angle for so long.

Afraid that you're nervous are too stone-cold steady? No problem! Run your benchstone in little circles, ovals, ellipses, or semi-circles up and down the edge to sharpen, deburr, and polish.

Too crude? Then let Koki Iwahara show you how it's done without circles.
 
Sandpaper sheets on mouse pad will convex your edge in a few hours. I did a 4 inch folder in a short evening on 150 grit. Once you have the edge profile you like, switch to 220, then higher if you want. I went straight from 220 to a 4 sided strop with three different polishing compounds and one plain leather. Just take one of your cheaper knives to try it on. After a couple work out ok, try it on a nice knife. I did one folder, and started to take the curve out of my SS and convex it. A straight edge will be easier to convex than a curved one.

BarkRiver knives home site has a good tutorial on how to do it
 
Sandpaper sheets on mouse pad will convex your edge in a few hours. I did a 4 inch folder in a short evening on 150 grit. Once you have the edge profile you like, switch to 220, then higher if you want. I went straight from 220 to a 4 sided strop with three different polishing compounds and one plain leather. Just take one of your cheaper knives to try it on. After a couple work out ok, try it on a nice knife. I did one folder, and started to take the curve out of my SS and convex it. A straight edge will be easier to convex than a curved one.

BarkRiver knives home site has a good tutorial on how to do it

i would go a little higher than 220 before stropping . . . just a little . . . .
 
often i'll remove the shoulder at the top of the edge bevel with a few strokes of a file before i move to 150, 220, 400, 600, 800 grit on a mousepad, usually no higher cause i like a little toothiness.
 
i would go a little higher than 220 before stropping . . . just a little . . . .

I was going to, but I picked up some aggressive stropping compound forr removing scratches from tool steel. It pulled the scratches out fast, and was much less messy than the sand paper. I have some finer grit sand paper I will be using on the SS before I move on to stropping.
 
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