Help on thin slots

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Jun 21, 2020
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Are there any tips and tricks for making a really thin slot in the bolster/ferrule? I'm ending up in the 1 mm range for some small knives, which is thinner than my needle files. I can certainly thin a file down, but I'm curious if there are better options.
Thanks.
 
I used a combination of techniques. You can get "knife needle files" from PMC Supplies. They are 1.1mm thick. You can also set up for abrasive disks at about 1mm thickness. I used the abrasive disks which weren't super clean cutting in my drill press setup, then I cleaned up with the files.
 
No to mill. Yes to jewelers saw, but my cuts look like a drunk snake.

I'm trying to make the hole at the front of the handle that the tang fits through in 1/8" nickel silver.
 
No to mill. Yes to jewelers saw, but my cuts look like a drunk snake.

I'm trying to make the hole at the front of the handle that the tang fits through in 1/8" nickel silver.
I have used a thinned down woodruff key cutter and a mill in 1/8 inch material, so I guess I’m no help.

Hoss
 
Custom punch and die time?
Hmm, or solder up a collar for the tang and make the slot wider?
 
Are you saying the tang is 1mm thick? That is less than .040".

Tips for using a jewelers saw:
1) Put the blade in right. The saw cuts on the pull stroke, not the push stroke like most other saws. This is usually the main culprit with new people.
2) Use blade lube. Run a piece of beeswax along the blade when starting to cut as well as any time the cutting slows.
3) Don't "saw" back and forth. On the return stroke lighten the pressure forward so the teeth don't try to cut backwards. If you saw back and forth, the blade will quickly dull and start to cut a curve.
4) Use a sharp blade. If the cut starts to curve you have dulled the teeth. Change the blade. Sawblades are a consumable, so buy them by the gross.
5) Use the right blade. A blade too large or too small will cause trouble. For most work in 1/8" material, a #3 or #4 blade (not 3/0 or 4/0) is a good choice.
6) Learn to use the jewelers saw. Practice on brass, then practice on steel. Cut circles out, straight lines curves, etc. It takes some time to learn the pull technique.

You can take a barrette needle file and grind the back down to make a thin file. Use gently, as a 1mmfile breaks easily.
 
Thanks all for the suggestions.

Stacy, I appreciate the reminder to let the tool do the work. I converted over to pull saws a long time ago, and do well with larger pieces, but that part of my brain seems to have shut down on the fine detail work.
The jewelers saw I bought came with a ton of blades in an assortment of sizes, so thanks for suggesting the right size. Based on the number I got and the price I paid, I'm assuming that these are very low quality blades. Is there a such thing as high quality jewelers saw blades?
 
Thanks all for the suggestions.

Stacy, I appreciate the reminder to let the tool do the work. I converted over to pull saws a long time ago, and do well with larger pieces, but that part of my brain seems to have shut down on the fine detail work.
The jewelers saw I bought came with a ton of blades in an assortment of sizes, so thanks for suggesting the right size. Based on the number I got and the price I paid, I'm assuming that these are very low quality blades. Is there a such thing as high quality jewelers saw blades?
yes, you can get good quality blades from jewelry supply houses. I just got some from Rio Grande jewelry supply for a project I'm working on right now. I think the brand was "Laser Gold", they seem to be working fairly well.
 
Just thought I'd mention that you can get round diamond files as small as .030" diameter. They're designed for cleaning the insides of tiny electrical socket connectors, but they can be used for anything. They come in a variety of diameters (.030", ,040", .050", etc)

I found them at ipatools.com, do a search for "diamond round files". They sell both sets and individual files (described as "replacements").

wociBaD.jpg
 
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Hurkules is a good brand. Pike Gold and Super Pike are also good. I use a #2 blade for 90% of all cutting.

Tip on learning to use a jeweler's saw:
Find some larger coins. $.50 or $1.00 size coins are good starters, but even $.25 size coins work. Pick one with an interesting image. Bahama's quarter with the marlin will work. If it has a figure that goes from top to bottom it is the best to start with. Full busts and heard are great, walking liberty figures, etc.
It can be any type metal.

Use a fine tip sharpie and draw a line around the figure and coin edge to how where you need to remove metal to make the coin into a framed pendant. You can blacken the areas you want to cut out if needed. Drill tiny holes in all the corners where you will insert a saw blade or turn a tight corner.

If you don't have one already, make a sawing board. It is a simple 5-6" bench pin that is level and has a narrow "V" slot cut in it. The apex of the V should be a roughly 1/2" hole. A piece of 2"X8"X1/2" hardwood is perfect. I like to round off the front corners and slightly taper the bottom side. Screw or clamp the sawing board to the bench or work table so it is around 36" off the floor level. This will allow comfortable sawing.

Place the saw blade in one end of the frame, slip the coin on the blade (top side away from handle), and put the other end in the frame. Place the end of the saw frame against the bench pin and press moderately on the handle with your chest. Tighten the blade clamp while the pressure is applied. A #0 or #1 blade is good for cutting out coins in the beginning. After you learn sawing, you can go down to a 2/0 blade if you need fine detail cuts.

Saw around the piece that needs to be removed until you cut out that section. Move the saw to the next section and repeat until all excess metal has been removed and the figure is in the center of a round frame. Lubricate the blade often, as needed.

When the blade starts to cut in a curve, change it! Don't worry about breaking blades, it is a fact of life when learning that you will go through dozens of blades until you learn to control the pull stroke without twisting the saw sideways and pinching the blade. Most folks use half the gross they bought on their first couple projects. Some never use up the rest once they learn how to saw.

Finish the rough-cut surfaces with a fine half-round jeweler's file.

I make these in old Standing Liberty silver coins and weld a jump ring on the top. You can also simply drill a hole for the bail ring near the top of the coin. They cost only the silver, they sell easily, the scarp pieces go back into the silver refinery can, and if the job doesn't look good, you can toss the whole project into the scrap can. Non-silver coins work just as good and are even cheaper. A Bahamas $.50 coin with the jumping marlin is a popular pendant and is very easy to make. You don't need a collector's grade coin. (Tip- connect the bill and the dorsal fin to the frame so it is supported. Saw out the area to each side of the marlin leaving the seas and fish.)
 
What tools do you have? Have you a Dremmel type tool?
Search Dremmel saw blades. they are a few dollars.
Pick a diameter closest or slightly larger than the slot length you wish to create. Obviously blade thickness of 1mm.
Mark out the slot on both sides of the guard.
Plunge cut one side until you hit arbour or slot length is achieved.
Plunge cut the other side.
This will leave minimum amount of clean up.
Welding tip cleaning files ("tip cleaners") are precisely dimensioned from 0.4mm to 2.0mm and are robust enough for heavy handed & ham fisted welders to use. Likewise they are a couple of dollars.
 
The sawing board that Stacy was talking about. It's SUPER useful. Here's mine, i'd recommend making out of hardwood like he said.

PXL_20240127_012508706.MP.jpg

Mine is made of pine, and I think I'll replace it with one of oak or maple or something like that after be this project. It's a little bit more bendy than i'd like...
 
Are there any tips and tricks for making a really thin slot in the bolster/ferrule? I'm ending up in the 1 mm range for some small knives, which is thinner than my needle files. I can certainly thin a file down, but I'm curious if there are better options.
Thanks.
I am not sure if this helps, but I like to make a "ditch" on the backside of the bolster, then punch the slot.
For example: The bolster is 3mm thick and the tang of the knife is 2mm thick.
I make the ditch 4mm wide and 2,2mm deep and punch a slot in the thin metal with a sharp steel. I get best result with milling steel. You can make a punch in the same (slightly smaller) shape and thickness of your tang before using the tang to shape the slot.
 
An idea to make sawing easier. I would drill a hole at each end of your slot. Then flip your bolster over. Then ideally I would use a 3/16 end mill (or drill bit)and set your depth to leave 3/32 to saw and take very small bites and overlap your holes, do the ends first. Clamp or secure in vise. At that thickness maybe just drill 3/32 deep. You can also easily peen nickel silver to close up a gap.
 
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i have a great mill so that would be my number 1 option.
#2 option might be a hacksaw blade...cut the back of it down and use the teeth like a file to make the slot you want
(not sure) how thick a average hacksaw blade is..i also have some .03 and 1mm carbide end mills from when i worked in a dental lab..
 
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