I have a stripped ESEE that I would like to paint a different color. Im gonna us rustoleum textured paint to replicate the powter coat the best I can. I also want to paint a ESEE/RAT logo on it. Does anyone have a stencil I could use to paint it? Also does anyone have any tips on painting the blade?
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Help painting blade?
- Thread starter nc527
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I gave a tram the good ol RAT triangle in dark red, it looks SECKSY. I'd recommend Brownells' gunkote or cerakote, both of them are spray on and they only cost a few bucks. They're professional quality gun finishes and I think they'll last alot longer. Best way to get the RAT logo back is to take a razor blade and whipe paint down into the ground logo.
I participate on rimfireforums as well, and people there swear by this rustoleum stuff, saying its as good as duracoat once it fully dryed. I also know a guy who painted his car with it. I intend to post pics when its dry. What do you mean by "take a razor blade and whipe paint down into the ground logo"?
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I have used rustoleum on guns before too... it flakes off in your hands especially if they're wet. I prefer krylon for rattle can jobs it's a little higher quality but to be honest its worth the extra buck a can to go with gunkote or cerakote. put a blob of paint on the blade where the engraved logo is, and then use a razor blade to whipe across it pushing the paint down into the engraving. It should leave just enough paint to show the logo and make a nice contrast.
I have used the rustoleum stuff and duracoat and ceracoat. The rustoleum is definately nowhere near as durable as the duracoat. It will flake off the first time you cut anything with it. As much as I hate to admit it I painted a car with it too(several years ago and it was a crapper)the paint didnt last 3 months before it was faded and flaking, and I do bodywork for a living so it wasnt the prepwork. The duracoat isnt that much more expensive and it is really easy to use, definately worth the little bit of extra money. and there is no baking like some of the other finishes just mix it and spray it. they even sell one time use disposable sprayers. just my two cents.
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I used the textured rustoleum on a becker a while back, and it's holding up fine. The texture(alot like sand) holds some junk, but most of it comes off with a stiff brush. No flaking or peeling yet, and it's been through a good bit of wood.
I removed the handles and hung it from a wire. I made sure the blade was good and clean(mineral spirits) and applied thin coats -- lots of them. I had to start over once because of a run that came out of nowhere. I did it as though I was painting a car, not worrying about overspray. Make sure you get all the curves and contours. I let mine hang for three or four days just to make sure the paint was cured before the handles went back on. It's still going strong.
I removed the handles and hung it from a wire. I made sure the blade was good and clean(mineral spirits) and applied thin coats -- lots of them. I had to start over once because of a run that came out of nowhere. I did it as though I was painting a car, not worrying about overspray. Make sure you get all the curves and contours. I let mine hang for three or four days just to make sure the paint was cured before the handles went back on. It's still going strong.
I bit the bullet and did it tonight. I removed the handles and hung from a wire like you said, but I cleaned it with engine degreaser, then since the degreaser was water soluble, I cleaned it off. Then let it dry. Next painted it, being sure to get the choil, pommel, and spine as evenly coated as the rest. Its hanging in the shop right now. It will be 90 degrees tomorrow, so when I get home from school ill take it out and respray it. one question never too sharp, does the coating stand up to being taken out of the kydex sheath well? If not I have a leather sheath for it, and Ill let it ride in that for a few weeks to be sure its hardened.
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Can't say about the kydex as I don't have the original sheath for it(BK9). I have a sheath from the Browning Crowell Barker Competition chopper that the 9 fits in nicely, and that's leather. I would assume you'll get rub marks from the kydex. When I changed the fasteners to stainless, I noticed that some of the texture under the handle had been smoothed out, so it's not bullet proof. But it really looks great, and it was pretty easy to do.
What color paint did you choose?
What color paint did you choose?
Can't say about the kydex as I don't have the original sheath for it(BK9). I have a sheath from the Browning Crowell Barker Competition chopper that the 9 fits in nicely, and that's leather. I would assume you'll get rub marks from the kydex. When I changed the fasteners to stainless, I noticed that some of the texture under the handle had been smoothed out, so it's not bullet proof. But it really looks great, and it was pretty easy to do.
What color paint did you choose?
I believe its the same color as yours, its like a little lighter then od but with specks of the white and stuff. I let it dry in the sun all day in the 85degree heat, and then today I put the handle scales back on. It looks awesome with the textured grips. FWI, this was done to the rc-3 from shotgunner11 that he posted a pic of. Ill put it out in the sun tomorrow one more time, then test the hardness. How did you dry yours nevertoosharp? if mine is hard enough, I might try to reveal the edge a bit under the paint. I also did like you with the logo, masking the RC-3, and the ROWEN logos on the blade.
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I let it hang for a few days without touching it, then I scraped the paint away from the edge before sharpening. IIRC, the paint color was 'desert bisque.' It looks like sand.
mine might be a bit more green come to think of it, but you get the idea. did the paint come away cleanly when you scraped it off, or did it try to gum up with all the textured stuff?
Trust me, I speant about 30min just prepping te blade, first roughened up with 80 grit sandpaper, then degreased, rinsed the degreaser off, dryed it off, then let it air dry, after that got the blade up to 95degrees to promote adhesion. Then I hung it on a wire, via the lanyard hole, light coat, making sure to get the areas around the choil and such. put 2 more coats on today, and let it bake in the 85 degree sun all day. put the handles on today. Imma go take a few pics of it now and post them within the next 15min.
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It came off fine. I have a little sheep's foot shop knife that allowed me to follow the original edge bevel. The resulting line wasn't totally crisp, but looks fine to the naked eye.
That's a sweet looking knife, by the way. :thumbup:
I'll have to start sharpening it with a course stone since I prolly messed up with edge with the 80 grit sandpaper. I hope it will come off during sharpening. Thanks for the compliments.