HELP!!! Rust on my Sebbie!?!?!?

mojo jojo

mojo jojo

Joined
Mar 7, 2001
Messages
85
I was in Valdez doing some salmon fishing and used my small sebbie, stone washed blade, around the salt water. A couple hours later I was back at my room where I could clean off the knife in fresh water when I noticed spotted rust all over my blade. About a day later I was able to break the knife down and give it a good cleaning. I really scrubbed the crap out of the blade with 000 steel wool but when I hold it up to the light and look real close I can still see some discoloration which I assume is the rust yet.

Anyone have any other ideas how I can safely and effectively remove all the rust and should my blade have rusted that quick to begin with?

Thanks
Steve
 
Hi. I always wipe my knives down with a Tuff Cloth before using them around salt water (unless its talonite or stellite ;) I would try to polish the blade with some flitz or you could send it back to CRK and have the blade re-tumbled. BG-42 will rust so you really need to invest in a the Tuff Cloth. I never have a problem with mine rusting. Hope this helps.
michael :D
 
mojo,
To get rid of it try scotch bright blue(the no scratch kind). Use some type light oil or penetrating oil with it and a lot of 'elbow grease'............:D

To keep it from happening use White Lightening on anything you do not want to rust in salt water. I have posted something else on this, do a search; it works.

Hope this helps.:)

Have a good one,
 
Thanks for the ideas Michael and Teacher. I'm still a little surprised at how quickly it started to rust. Would the polished blade have held up longer under salt water conditions? Has anybody else had any problems like this?

Thanks again
Steve
 
Mojo,
Salt water will 'get' almost any steel sooner or layer.
Have a good one, :)

EDIT:::::Oops............"layer" should be LATER. (sorry):o
 
It was meant for use on a blue pocket pistol. Being that this is a typical Kentucky summer, the only time my pockets are completely dry is when I'm in the air conditioning. After reading this post can you guess what the very next thing to get the Marine Tuf-Cloth treatment will be? Yep! The blade of my Sebenza! Does anyone know just how rust resistant BG-42 actually is?

Thanks,
Will
 
For a high carbon steel, BG-42 is very rust resistant. However as a measure of over all rust resistance I would argue that it is not enough to rely on without some protection as well. My understanding it it is better than ATS-34 by about 10% and ATS-34 rusts with ease if you are not careful. How about Spiral Damascus then? Its just carbon steel right?:)
 
The most vulnerable place for the Sebenza to pick up rust is on the underside of the blade where it rests against the end pin when it is closed. This would suggest that you should store your knife open when not in use so it can dry out properly.

protodoc
 
Originally posted by teacher
Salt water will 'get' almost any steel sooner or layer.
Click to expand...

True. Salt water is a real bear...free chlorides result when Sodium & Chloride (NaCl, salt) dissolve in water. Chlorides and 300 or 400 series stainless means corrosion (iron oxide, rust).

Fillet knives from 420 or 440 are the way to go. Stay cheap and don't worry about it. Just sharpen more often.

For folders, there are several ways to go, here are three:

1. Inexpensive, only partly effective vs. salt water: get a Buck folder you can stand out of 420HC. 420 resists rust better than any of the 440A/B/C alloys (surprising but true according to many, including Buck & Crucible).

2. Moderate: Something out of ATS34 range w/ a black teflon blade coating. At least only the sharpened edge will get most of the corrosion. You still have to disassemble and fully clean afterwards.

3. Expensive, very effective vs. salt water: titanium handle and Stellite/Talonite. (Kit Carson, Mayo, Darrel Ralph, many others, or Camillus for a Talonite blade on their EDC but w/ steel handle I believe, for maybe 1/4 to 1/6 of a custom price)
 
If it is just "specs", a pencil eraser might work, but will be moderately abrasive and change surface finish (but 000 steel wool probably did too).

If Scotchbrite Blue doesn't do it, you can resort to 600 or 800 grit sandpaper, but you have to realize you are looking at refinishing the whole blade... sand with the existing grind marks on hollow grind, and with blade length on spine and flats.

Reeve will recondition and sharpen for a very reasonable price.

And the rust you got from salt water can't be totally prevented by a mirror polish...that helps a "little", but all the low-chrome stainless stuff (AUS6/8/10, VG-10, ATS34/154CM, BG-42) will rust quickly around salt water, so too does the more resistant stuff like 420 and 440*, whether Crucible 420V 440V or the cheaper stuff.

Talonite/Stellite will be corrosion resistant to anything you dare put your hands in.
 
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