Help, s30v or d2 or neither

Nosetotail

Nosetotail

Joined
Jun 10, 2007
Messages
398
This is my first post, so take your best shot at me.

I had a knife gooru buy me a good work knife about five years back. He delivered a Balisong BM 800 afck tactical folder with ats34. I used the heck out of the knife but I had no idea what I had till I lost it.

I wasn't big on knifes but I have developed an appreciation using that one and much more of an appreciation while searching for a replacement. I didn't have too much trouble sharpening it since I quickly bought a DMT diamond sharpener but I was tired of making three or four cuts into rope and flat strap and having to sharpen it again. So my first concern is sharp edge retention under moderate to sometimes heavy use.

To make a long story short, I have bought and returned a BM 940 (s30v) and a smaller BM 960 (d2) in the passed couple of days. Why I returned them is an even longer story to do with an errant listing on ebay claiming a 940 with d2 steel.

I'd like to hear your best opinion on which blade steel to stick with for sharpest edge retention and suggestions on a model to go with. Keep in mind that I am already addicted to the 940 axis and I only had it for a day. On that note, I hated the apparition automatic blade, so if you can suggest another brand that is as smooth as the 940 and that has a better edge steel I would greatly appreciate it.

I find it odd that in the few steel threads I have seen, s30v gets very little mention and BM seems to have gone heavy with s30v.

Incidentally there is a BM 800 afck for bid on Ebay right now. OOOHHH i loved that knife.
 
Between the 940 in S30V and 960 in D2, pick the one you like best. Both are premium steels, and will give you better edgeholding than the old ATS-34. Of the S30V and D2 blades from Benchmade that I have tried out, the D2 holds an edge slightly better, but for general use you will not notice any real difference. S30V is stainless, and D2 is semi-stainless (it is hard to get it to stain, but it will pit sometimes).
 
what kind of rope are you cutting?
do you need your steel to be stainless?

D2 is a great steel for cutting rope in general. It has a toothy
sharp edge that acts like micro-serrations.

Not that S30V is a slouch... it just depends on what you cut most
and your environment.
 
You'll enjoy either steel equally. The D2 steel edge will last a bit longer and if allowed to get dull will require the full use of your diamond stone. For your use on rope, I'd give the nod to D2 because it tends to give a slightly toothier edge which you'll grow to appreciate (the toothy micro-serrations should be killer on rope).

NJ
 
If you have your heart set on a BM, then I'm not going to be of much help. I have a couple of theirs in D2, and am not impressed. My Dozier D2 knives hold an edge much longer, I'm wondering if their heat treat isn't as good. I've had bad luck with S30V, so can't help you there.

Check out Spyderco's offerings in ZDP 189. This steel really holds an edge, and isn't hard to sharpen on diamond stones. Good luck.
 
The best you can have now IMHO is green Spyderco Endura4 ZDP189 - very good knives with steel liners now etc... I guess this is the only ZDP knife with this size. You may also wait a bit for Kershaw Blur with SG2. Now Kershaw Mini Cyclon with Ti handle awailable also but it bit smaller.

Also I may suggest you Spyderco Military BG42 or may be coming soon Military CPM D2.

If you looking for top steel - BM now not the one who may offer anything new, few years ago they were only company offering M2, but now nothing impressive. I guess that they just can not get any ZDP189.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
i would say s30v, i've been doing the d2/s30v tango for far too long now. the edge retention comes from the heat treat, i've had s30v that held up alot longer than some d2 and vice versa. in BM lines they are equal, i prefer s30v because it is stainless and can be made to have a toothy edge or a hair popping polished one.

that said, i'd go for a 943, 610/615 rukus, or a 806-701 AFCK if its in your price range ($325) its s30v with CF scales. or if you can do without AXIS, a Skirmish or DeJavoo in full/mini, the syderco manix is real nice too
 
As to the stainless question, I already decided I would rather it not be as I thought that a stainless blade wouldn't do as well, however I am aware that both d2 and s30v are about the same in carbon content.

I don't need a stainless blade, but I'll take one if it wins the prize.

And as to the BM question, that is all I have used and I trust them. I'll try another brand if they have an offering as smooth as the BM. I don't want a macho combat looking knife, just one that will do what I need it to do. I really like the slim reverse tanto blade on the 940 for what I want to do but I'm not quite sold on the sv30. The 960 blade seems a little light and I'm worried it might not hold up if I have to pry something (yes I know that's sacriligious).
 
I cut quite a bit of rope both hemp and nylon. Recently started using a Kershaw Blur with the S30V stone washed blade. It is an awesome knife. Edge retention seem excellent.
 
Nosetotail, have you looked for BM (the company is Benchmade, btw) 806D2's? It's the same handle and blade shape as the 800, but with their Axis lock instead of the liner lock of the 800. The blade is D2 steel. Unfortunately, since they are out of production, the prices you'll find are pretty high.

If you are in a city with a decent knife store, go and check out some of Spyderco's offerings. BM licensed the opening hole from Spyderco, and some of their knives feel similar, and are of equal quality. (The opening hole was one of the things I loved about my 800.)

If I didn't work in an office environment with a "no knives" policy, I would still carry my 800AFCK. As it is, I carry a Spyderco Kopa.

Welcome to the forum. :)
 
I'm kind of surprised no one has suggested the BM 710. Its a little cheaper than the 940 or 960 (i'm pretty sure) it has the D2 blade which should be great for your uses and also the blade is a bit thicker than the 960 in case prying becomes necessary. I don't own a 710, so I can't speak from personal experience, but I've asked a couple of times in a couple of different ways what knife i should buy on here and every single time 710 comes back as the response. The blade is a little longer on the 710, but it rides in the pocket real well from when I played with one at the Blade show.

my $.02
 
Sorry for the lack of responses, I'm having serious issues logging on and I have tried everything. I have a little luck if I change my password.

Anyway, I'm laughing at the 806 suggestions as that was the first knife I sought after when I started looking a week ago. I had an 800 which is identical in shape and had a hole so I know what the hole is all about. I quickly found out that I didn't want to buy one for two or three hundred dollars though. I did however discover the axis lock in my search process and I am completely sold on it.

However my first consideration was the blade steel and with some of your suggestions I did shop the Spydercos ZDP offerings and begrudgingly I am going to give up on an axis lock offering and go with the Endura. While I'll wish I had the axis at first, I feel I will be much more appreciative of the ZDP blade in the long run. I'm hoping the action will be the same as my 800. In which case, I will be satisfied.

I should be flipping the blade open and shaving a nice clean sweep down my arm by next Wednesday or so. Maybe sooner.

Thanks for your help.
 
On that note, I'm wondering how the ZDP blade will stand under a little stripping of copper wire secondaries.
 
for what it's worth, get the one that feels best In the hand and pocket.
do yourself a favor and forget all that CRAP about sharpest/longest.
eventually every knife needs to be sharpened.
 
Get a BM Ritter Grip in S30v. That is very good steel. I am currently waiting on my first D2 knife. A Dozier. I can't wait.
 
I have a zdp caly jr, a friend of mine chipped the edge while cutting some light gauge wire. So i wouldn't be stripping wire with it, it's run about 6 points harder than your old AFCK, IIRC. You could probably reduce chipping with a more obtuse edge, the zdp enduras are probably thicker than the calys at the edge anyway.

I gave another friend a VG10 waved endura. He's a police officer, and used it to pry open a door on a house trailer to get to a body the first week he had it. It's a solid design.
 
I do agree with you about getting what feels right however I've been wanting a high carbon steel for some time now and I think the price tag is right. I fully intend on getting a 940 when I have given this one a good working over. Then I can just go with what I would rather carry when I'm at work. If the 940 doesn't cut it with me at work, I'll still certainly carry it the rest of the time.
 
hardheart said:
I have a zdp caly jr, a friend of mine chipped the edge while cutting some light gauge wire. So i wouldn't be stripping wire with it, it's run about 6 points harder than your old AFCK, IIRC. You could probably reduce chipping with a more obtuse edge, the zdp enduras are probably thicker than the calys at the edge anyway.

I gave another friend a VG10 waved endura. He's a police officer, and used it to pry open a door on a house trailer to get to a body the first week he had it. It's a solid design.
Click to expand...

I only used my ats blade a couple of times on copper and it didn't chip so to say but it sure got nicked up pretty bad. I geuss that's chipping but it seemed more to do with the steel being a little too soft. Or the edge was a little to acute. As best as I could tell.
 
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