Help sharpening Spyderco (Dragonfly) on Lansky

Kershaws

Kershaws

Joined
Aug 3, 2013
Messages
592
So I bought a Spyderco Dragonfly G10 a while ago, and after some extensive EDC carry, it needs sharpening, I bought a Lansky today, and when I mounted the Dragonfly on the lansky, the clamp does not bite down on the blade evenly, this is due to the blade being FFG and it gets thinner towards the tip, anyone here have any tips on sharpening the Dragonfly on the Lansky?
I decided to clamp the dragonfly like this due to this being the only part of the blade with a flat surface area but I feel like its going to cut an uneven edge on the blade.

I know I can easily test it out myself and see how it works, but I want to take precaution and take advice here to prevent unnecessary removal of extra metal. I have the Stone system not the diamond so it's a bit slower.
Here's a pic of the sharpied edge after about 30 seconds sharpening on the Coarse stone, it seems about right, its only cutting in the middle, but I believe thats due to my failed attempt at free-handing earlier and put a slightly convexed edge on it.
Any help is greatly appreciated
 
Look up some lansky tips on YouTube it slips me t the moment as to what video, maybe by swissarmyzippo or something, but I remember them specifically address this ffg issue. Any who just look on youtube
 
I think you need to meve the clamp down away from the handle as it looks like it is at an angle.
 
Get the clamp off of the ricasso/tang of the blade, and move it forward of the plunge grind, where the clamp's inside surfaces can get full flush contact on the sides of the blade. The open gaps between the clamp and the blade, seen in your pics, will allow the blade to move too much. Don't worry at all about trying to keep the clamp's sides parallel to each other, and instead focus on getting them fully flush to the sides of the blade. The hold will be much firmer, done that way.

To clamp it properly:
  • Place the clamp on the table, with the ends of the jaws pointing UPWARD, and opened widely.
  • Place the blade between the clamp's halves, and pinch the forward end of the clamp's jaws flush to the blade's sides with your thumb & forefinger. Maintain your pinch-hold in that position, while lightly finger-tightening the forward screw (nearest to the end of the jaws); make absolutely sure you're still pinching the clamp tightly against the blade while doing this. Stop turning the screw when you feel the clamp's resistance against the blade.
  • While still pinching the clamp, adjust the REAR screw by finger-tightening it inward until you again feel resistance of the clamp tightening against the blade. Adjust that screw maybe 1/4 turn tighter, and check for tightness of hold at the forward end of the clamp. Blade shouldn't be moving at all, and you'll hopefully not see any open gaps between the clamp and the flat grind of the blade.


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Get the clamp off of the ricasso/tang of the blade, and move it forward of the plunge grind, where the clamp's inside surfaces can get full flush contact on the sides of the blade. The open gaps between the clamp and the blade, seen in your pics, will allow the blade to move too much. Don't worry at all about trying to keep the clamp's sides parallel to each other, and instead focus on getting them fully flush to the sides of the blade. The hold will be much firmer, done that way.

To clamp it properly:
  • Place the clamp on the table, with the ends of the jaws pointing UPWARD, and opened widely.
  • Place the blade between the clamp's halves, and pinch the forward end of the clamp's jaws flush to the blade's sides with your thumb & forefinger. Maintain your pinch-hold in that position, while lightly finger-tightening the forward screw (nearest to the end of the jaws); make absolutely sure you're still pinching the clamp tightly against the blade while doing this. Stop turning the screw when you feel the clamp's resistance against the blade.
  • While still pinching the clamp, adjust the REAR screw by finger-tightening it inward until you again feel resistance of the clamp tightening against the blade. Adjust that screw maybe 1/4 turn tighter, and check for tightness of hold at the forward end of the clamp. Blade shouldn't be moving at all, and you'll hopefully not see any open gaps between the clamp and the flat grind of the blade.


David
Click to expand...

Good point, although doing this throws off the previous angle I had on the blade, so i'm going to have to start back from coarse. Hope it works
 
Cant think of any reason for you not to clamp it the way you have it clamped. Probably easier/more accurate then trying to clamp on the FFG. The bevel you have there looks nice and even , but your going to be some time getting it knocked down to your selected angle. Not a problem though.
 
The unsupported corner of the clamp, at the outer edge (nearer the tip) is what would be a problem. These clamped setups will tend to rock, pivot or otherwise move if the clamp doesn't have flush contact at both corners, and more so when more than half of the clamp isn't flush to the blade (as in this case). It gets worse with relatively smooth-finished or polished blades, as they slip inside the clamp more easily. I've seen this with Lansky (2 sets), Gatco and the DMT Aligner.

About the only time I've had to use the tang/ricasso to clamp to, was with sabre- or hollow-grinds (see below) that wouldn't otherwise have enough, if any, flat blade surface for flush contact. I only do it as a last resort, and then make sure to tread lightly while sharpening, else the blade tends to be pushed out of position in the clamp.


David
 
Last edited:
This might sound a little whack, but the unsupported part of the clamp...I unclamped it and removed the knife, and got some Play-Doh and put some next to the ricasso, on both sides , I then re-clamped it, that way the part of the clamp that isn't touching the blade has something to support it, I let it dry overnight and I am now in the process of sharpening, who knows if it works
 
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