Help! Stripped T6 Screw

S

StaTiK

Joined
Jan 13, 2012
Messages
94
I need some assistance...

I bought a new Kershaw RAM blem and I love the knife but the button is pretty stiff and hard to use. So I tried to take the G10 scale off to look for a problem (and maybe take one of the two springs out) and stripped the last T6 screw.

As soon as it started to strip I tried using a soldering iron to heat the screw to loosen any loctite (if present) and pushed really hard to fully engage the edges, but didn't work.

I tried using a T7, didn't work.

So I looked on YT and saw someone recommending using a small flathead screwdriver and wedge into opposing "corners". Didn't work, but it did bend the sides of the blade and strip the screw a little worse.

My father-in-law is a retired machinist and loaned me a screw extractor (looks like a left-hand drill bit) that you twist with a tap handle, didn't work. In fact I think the extractor is for a bigger screw size because it basically acted like an auger and the stripped T6 is now a perfect circle.

When I stripped a screw on my Kershaw Skyline clip (non-blem, purchased from the same website) I used a Dremmel to cut a notch in the screw head, and then used a flathead screwdriver to remove it. No problem because the screw was raised above the clip. With the RAM the screw is countersunk into the G10 so this isn't a good option.

Any ideas? I would have just mailed the knife to Kershaw, but this is a blem and I don't think they are obligated to fix it. This knife is brand new, never carried, and it's killing me that I may have to send it somewhere! Any ideas?

-StaTiK-
 
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Ok, so I called Kershaw (which I probably should have done first) and they're going to help me out. Excellent customer service, and above and beyond their obligation.

So, to modify my question: How do I prevent this from happening in the future? I've stripped two out of seven T6 screws that I've tried to adjust, using a new/unused craftsman torx screwdriver.

-StaTiK-
 
Seems like you answered your own question, send them back to the manufacturer to remove them for you. Not to be a smart &%%, but If I had a 30% failure rate on something like that, I would let someone else try the job for me. YMMV

Omar
:rolleyes:
 
T6's are tricky little beasts, the best thing is to use the best quality, best fitting driver you can find. The 2nd is to make sure that the screw isn't loctited in before you apply torque to it, Despite torx fasteners being some of the hardest to strip out, a combination of loctite, overtightening, and mild corrosion will be too much for a fastener head that small. Another thing is to try a hand impact driver (not to be confused with a battery powered impact driver). You can usually loosen stubborn screws with less risk of damaging the head of the fastener. Make sure you read the instructions with one, it's not that hard to tighten a fastener instead of loosening it if you don't use it properly.
 
OHALLUM said:
Seems like you answered your own question, send them back to the manufacturer to remove them for you. Not to be a smart &%%, but If I had a 30% failure rate on something like that, I would let someone else try the job for me. YMMV

Omar
:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Well Omar, the :rolleyes: doesn't help your cause. I don't think it's reasonable to send a knife to the manufacturer to change the pocket clip orientation before trying to do it myself.

yoda4561 said:
T6's are tricky little beasts, the best thing is to use the best quality, best fitting driver you can find. The 2nd is to make sure that the screw isn't loctited in before you apply torque to it, Despite torx fasteners being some of the hardest to strip out, a combination of loctite, overtightening, and mild corrosion will be too much for a fastener head that small. Another thing is to try a hand impact driver (not to be confused with a battery powered impact driver). You can usually loosen stubborn screws with less risk of damaging the head of the fastener.
Click to expand...

All good points, thank you. I'm pretty sure that the manufacturer is using loctite (or similar) because there is definitely residue on the threads when a screw is removed. And just so we're clear: a hand impact driver is a screwdriver that gets its torque from being hit (tapped?) with a hammer, right? Have you ever used one on such small screws? I'm absolutely willing to buy the tool if it works!

-StaTiK-
 
I agree with Yoda, get a high quality torx driver. Wera or Wiha are good. Also, if you ever have it strip again try an Allen wrench. Usually you can get one to fit tight or maybe even tap it in with a hammer and turn it right out. I do this regularly at work and it works more often than you would expect.
 
StaTiK said:
Ok, so I called Kershaw (which I probably should have done first) and they're going to help me out. Excellent customer service, and above and beyond their obligation.

So, to modify my question: How do I prevent this from happening in the future? I've stripped two out of seven T6 screws that I've tried to adjust, using a new/unused craftsman torx screwdriver.

-StaTiK-
Click to expand...

Look Kershaw doesn't even offer warranty repair on blems and they're going to help you out ;). Who's really better than them?
 
bernard_s3 said:
Look Kershaw doesn't even offer warranty repair on blems and they're going to help you out ;). Who's really better than them?
Click to expand...

That was exactly my point when I said "above and beyond their obligation", excellent service! I'm glad they felt sorry for me because I was really out of options with a completely stripped screw.
 
StaTiK said:
All good points, thank you. I'm pretty sure that the manufacturer is using loctite (or similar) because there is definitely residue on the threads when a screw is removed. And just so we're clear: a hand impact driver is a screwdriver that gets its torque from being hit (tapped?) with a hammer, right? Have you ever used one on such small screws? I'm absolutely willing to buy the tool if it works!

-StaTiK-
Click to expand...


Yep, that's the tool. Not used one on a fastener that small, but I figure it should work on those stubborn screws just as well as the big ones, the idea behind them is that they: A- use the force of the hammer to keep the bit fully seated while turning, and B-the impact force/vibration weakens whatever it is binding the fastener. You'd need to clamp the knife in a vise or set it on a very firm work surface to use one, cheapo ones are 15 bucks and usually take the 1" insert bits. Again, bit quality/fitment is key with these small screws. I certainly wouldn't hit it like you would with a larger screw, light taps perhaps. It wouldn't be my first choice for small screws, but if the only other option is drilling/cutting off the fastener's head then go for it :)

USUALLY, a properly fitting bit, carefully keeping the driver oriented properly and not canted to the side, and a bit of heat/cold (I use a can of compressed air held upside down for the cold) will get things moving. I'd do all that before messing the impact, it was just a thought in case all else failed.
 
your T6 driver might be a little worn out. I find that the more their "teeth" are worn out the more easily they will strip screws. otherwise just make sure you press the driver inwards while you turn it so it does fully engage like you say, but try to find a middle ground between that and being delicate, like make sure when you are first setting it you are gentle about lining the bit in place and stuff like that
 
Try using a paper towel around your T6 bit - sometimes it fills in the gaps enough to pull a stripped screw out.
 
This is exactly why I wish everybody would stop using tiny Torx fasteners and then loctiting them into applications like a knife. I understand the whole "robot friendly" thing and it's great for mass production but sometimes they need to be removed. Too many manufacturers of these fasteners are apparently making them out of recycled tuna cans and selling them by the gross to knife makers. Looks good on paper but kinda sucks in the real world. If the screw is made from junk then a Wiha is not going to help you. Having spent years removing screws from firearms I've seen some tough screws. They don't come out in one piece unless your driver fits the screw PERFECTLY and doesn't try to cam out of the head (like a Torx). A screw that easily accepts and releases a bit so a robot can slam them in at a fast production speed is a screw that will cam the driver out if you torque on it by hand. I wish they would use high quality small Allen screws for knives. I replaced all of the slotted screws in my S&W revolvers with Allen screws so I can torque them to spec but still remove them easily. They have worked for 30 years now and still look like new. If your Allen driver gets rounded off at the tip you can simply grind it back down to full diameter. Try that with a Torx or a Phillips. There is a reason that machinists have been using allen fasteners for 150 years.
 
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Torx screws are extremely resistant to camout, and much better at not getting stripped than allen screws. I've damaged more allen socket head screws and keys than I care to cuss about. I'd rather use slotted. Allens are okay once you get into the larger sizes, like 10-32's or larger.
 
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