Help with a boy's axe head ID

Status
Not open for further replies.
jblyttle

jblyttle

Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
3,741




I just picked this up, and have been looking for a boy's axe head to hang on a new handle that I got from House handle. This head is in really great shape but there is no ID. The only markings are on the top and underside of the poll. One side is marked "2 1/2", the other is marked "DY". That's all.

I don't really care what the brand is in particular for this tool, I just want to know that it is a quality head before I waste a good handle on it. Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to shed some light.
 
That one has me a little concerned. It seems to have a tapered poll that I see on the imports. Most boys axes are 2 1/4, that one is 2 1/2 and the DY might just stand for Dayton, the axe's pattern.
I don't have experince with them imports. It might be just fine if it is one of those. See what your file says I guess.
 
Let's have a look at the cheek profile. The imports have flat cheeks. That one appears to have convex cheeks. Might be American made.
 
Interested in this as well. Picked up a full size SB marked DY at top of poll at flea market this weekend- no pics but the cheeks seemed a might flat.

Bill
 
Think I've got one marked like this that my dad had. Think I've got it some where's around here, let me see.

-Edit-
Marked the same, DY on top, 2 1/2 on the bottom, and mine has convex cheeks.
 
Last edited:
The maker of the DY axes and hatchets is a bit of a mystery. (Translation: I'm stumped.) Somebody posted that they had one shaped more like a European head, with "600" (as in, grams) stamped for the weight instead of pounds. Somebody on a UK forum had an axe head like the OPs, similarly marked DY, but with 1000 instead of 2-1/2. So my guess is that the DY axes were made in Europe, maybe in the 60s or 70s? That's all I got.


scouter27 said:
I have an old hatchet. I've had it for some time, and I was wondering if anyone had any insight as to the maker. It looks similar to the Condor Greenland pattern head, perhaps a little more sweep at the toe, coming to a more acute point. It is marked DY on the toe side of the poll and either 009 (bit up) or 600 (bit down) on the heel side. I'm thinking that's 600 grams, which is about 1.3 pounds; plausible given the size...
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Mine has a 4 on the bottom..... mysterious enough to be worth big $$$$$$$$$ Let' start the rumor and hit the 'Bay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bill
 
Steve Tall said:
The maker of the DY axes and hatchets is a bit of a mystery. (Translation: I'm stumped.) Somebody posted that they had one shaped more like a European head, with "600" (as in, grams) stamped for the weight instead of pounds. Somebody on a UK forum had an axe head like the OPs, similarly marked DY, but with 1000 instead of 2-1/2. So my guess is that the DY axes were made in Europe, maybe in the 60s or 70s? That's all I got.
Click to expand...

Good info as usual. I'd like to learn more and may try a little more research. Failing that, I'm happy enough with your educated guesses to consider that there is a good chance that this is a good head, especially considering the condition. Cheek pics soon.
 
So, I have not sharpened many axes. A few. I understand the idea behind testing with a file, how it should be fairly difficult to bite compared to soft steel. My problem is that I have not yet developed the "feel" to know the difference very easily. It could be that I have never sharpened soft steel so don't know the difference. My file marks this head, but it seems like it is resisting. I don't know if it should be more difficult or not.

If this turned out to be a fairly generic head of but good quality, I'd be perfectly happy with it. This one won't be a collector's item, but hopefully an excellent tool.
 


Possible stamp under the paint.



Temper line visible after sanding up to 220 grit. Stopping here...like I said, it's a tool.

Eff it. I'm going to hang the sucker. To far in now!
 
jblyttle said:


Possible stamp under the paint.



Temper line visible after sanding up to 220 grit. Stopping here...like I said, it's a tool.

Eff it. I'm going to hang the sucker. To far in now!
Click to expand...

JB, since your last picture I have kept my eyes open for one of these mystery axes. That last picture you posted has to be a forge weld.

So when I seen this one with what I thought was a forge welded bit I went ahead and got it.
I still don't know who the maker is and it has a strange shaped eye(like yours). The forge weld is visible from the toe to half way to the heel.

P1010001_zps2vj616zn.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Thought I would up date some information. The bit is on the soft side for my taste. I have came across this soft of a bit before. They have been on Collins and R King stamped axes. Just my experience and I suspect a less than perfect heat treat is to blame but it may just be perfect for some users, like those that use their axes in cold climates.
 
My feeling based on everything that I have learned here to date tells me that this is not a forge welded bit. From the style, apparent age, the lack of the slightest physical cue that would indicate a line between two pieces of metal etc., I think that this is a case of the person doing the quenching simply rotating the head instead of dipping it straight. All forge welded heads that I have ever seen have been well made but still had a line where you could at least catch a fingernail. This is one solid piece of steel as far as I can tell. Also, no axe that I have ever seen that would have a forge welded bit would ever have one that could be called too soft.
 
Quality US and european axes have not been painted red in ages. The impacts on the axe seem to have deformed the steel considerably indicating softness. It even shows small wear scars just from general cutting as it was used. Most probably an modern import.
 
Iggi said:
Quality US and european axes have not been painted red in ages. The impacts on the axe seem to have deformed the steel considerably indicating softness. It even shows small wear scars just from general cutting as it was used. Most probably an modern import.
Click to expand...

Or a soft wrought body with a forge welded bit.
 
I could be wrong about it I have been wrong before.
I think many times we fail to recognize the age of some of are axes and how late manufactures where still forge welding bits.

What do you guys think of these two axe heads?
Are they forge welded?
Hard to say from the pictures?

This one is stamped TrueTemper Kelly Works.
P1010005_zpslhlnetuw.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Another is just a no name hatchet.
P1010009_zpsuhagdkwk.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Are they both single piece construction?
 
garry3 said:
I could be wrong about it I have been wrong before.
I think many times we fail to recognize the age of some of are axes and how late manufactures where still forge welding bits.

What do you guys think of these two axe heads?
Are they forge welded?
Hard to say from the pictures?

This one is stamped TrueTemper Kelly Works.
P1010005_zpslhlnetuw.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Another is just a no name hatchet.
P1010009_zpsuhagdkwk.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Are they both single piece construction?
Click to expand...

I have definitely been wrong before on this forum, but I would say neither is single piece construction. I wish I knew how to draw on the pictures you have provided, but I believe I can see lines indicating where the welds seem apparent. (I hope I didn't just fail a trick question!)
 
Curt Hal said:
I have definitely been wrong before on this forum, but I would say neither is single piece construction. I wish I knew how to draw on the pictures you have provided, but I believe I can see lines indicating where the welds seem apparent. (I hope I didn't just fail a trick question!)
Click to expand...

No tricks Curt. The TrueTemper has a flaw in the forge weld at the bottom of the cheek betraying the weld or it would be damn hard to confirm. Most TrueTempers are single piece but apparently not all.

The little no name hatchet has at least four layers and then a steel bit. That's what those c shaped marks are on the cheeks. No makers mark and have no way of knowing why he used so many layers. Maybe its all he had but the steel bit weld is not at all that apparent.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top