I've been wanting to get me a fixed blade for sometime now but have no idea where to start. I've been looking at the Bark River Bravo 1 or 1.5 but have a few questions. Which one would be better suited as a all around camp knife? I'm more inclined to the 1.5 for it's longer reach. I have a mora for the smaller tasks if that's a concern. I have a problem with convex edges since I can't sharpen them so I would like to stick with a V-edge, that is the major concern that I have with the Bravo 1.5 since I read that it should be maintained a convex edge. I'm open to suggestions.
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Help with a fixed blade
- Thread starter arjay
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V grinds are available from ESEE, Becker, Buck, Blind Horse, Fallkniven, and a bunch of others. If you don't want to maintain a convex edge, it'd probably be best to go with a v grind. You can covert a convex edge to a v grind, but it's a pain to do. I'd have to really like the knife to do it. One place to see a lot of different FBs that will work for you is A G Russell's web site. He'll handle FBs from several different makers. BRKT is very good but they will be convexed edges. Personally, I'd look at Blind Horse for great knives, a wide variety, and very reasonable pricing.
I use a 4.5" FB for general camp stuff when I'm camping. It's a custom that's shaped a lot like modern bushcraft style blades. Easily big enough to handle anything I'd do with a knife. I carry a small camp hatchet for heavier needs. Field naintenance may become an issue if you're planning to be out for a while. You'll want to consider a kit that can maintain a working edge in the field on whatever blade you choose. If you're only out for a week or less, a blade with good edge holding properties will probably last with just a little stropping on your belt.
I use a 4.5" FB for general camp stuff when I'm camping. It's a custom that's shaped a lot like modern bushcraft style blades. Easily big enough to handle anything I'd do with a knife. I carry a small camp hatchet for heavier needs. Field naintenance may become an issue if you're planning to be out for a while. You'll want to consider a kit that can maintain a working edge in the field on whatever blade you choose. If you're only out for a week or less, a blade with good edge holding properties will probably last with just a little stropping on your belt.
I used to own 1 of every ESEE model made, they are nothing like a BRKT knife other than that they are a good value for the price paid. The coating, and the squared handles on the '5, '6, and LS are a deal breaker for me. I'll get another ESEE when they finally release the ESEE-3 in stainless steel.
I thought the same thing, then I got some sandpaper and a mousepad and learned that it is incredibly easy to get a convex edge hair popping sharp.
I've spent the last few years, and a lot of money looking for a knife to replace my Bravo 1. I've failed miserably, nothing else, that I've tried, comes close.
Between the convex edge, overall thickness and design of the blade, and the unbelievably comfortable handles (they are designed to be secure using the profile of the grip, instead of the texture, so that it grips the same wet or dry. The smooth grips means that they wear your hands less when used) the Bravo 1 is an incredible knife.
The Bravo 1 is the only knife I've ever had that was able to do EVERYTHING I need, and ride comfortably on my belt, high enough to cover with a t-shirt.
Here's my current "user":
I thought the same thing, then I got some sandpaper and a mousepad and learned that it is incredibly easy to get a convex edge hair popping sharp.
I've spent the last few years, and a lot of money looking for a knife to replace my Bravo 1. I've failed miserably, nothing else, that I've tried, comes close.
Between the convex edge, overall thickness and design of the blade, and the unbelievably comfortable handles (they are designed to be secure using the profile of the grip, instead of the texture, so that it grips the same wet or dry. The smooth grips means that they wear your hands less when used) the Bravo 1 is an incredible knife.
The Bravo 1 is the only knife I've ever had that was able to do EVERYTHING I need, and ride comfortably on my belt, high enough to cover with a t-shirt.
Here's my current "user":
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Just because the Bark River comes with a convex grind doesn't mean you have to keep it that way. I assume you have some sort of rig to sharpen so all you need to do is set it to the lowest angle that will sharpen the very edge. Every progressive sharpening will bring it close and closer to a v grind.
As to camp knives I would go big considering you have a mora. You won't gain a whole lot from carrying a knife about the same size IMO.
As to camp knives I would go big considering you have a mora. You won't gain a whole lot from carrying a knife about the same size IMO.
I've seen the Esee but the handle doesn't look comfortable to me, too think, too short and too blocky. How do you like the handle? I've read tons of complains about the handles and I would think I would face the same problems with my big hands, I wear large gloves for referrence. Some recommend T-K-C G10 handles too but they still look thin and blocky. Also, Any warranty is moot for me since I can't send knives out from my country but I can get them in and manufacturers require damage knives to be sent in for inspection.
How hard would it be to convert the edge to a V grind? If it's doable with the tools I have, I might give it a go.
I forgot to mention that I have a BK-9 but it's too big to lug around so it's just gathering dust somewhere. I'm looking for something bigger than the mora and more substantial but smaller than the BK-9. The mora is so light that I don't mind carrying it with a larger knife. One of the reason I'm considering the bravo 1 is for the 3V steel. It should hold an edge a long time, I'm usually out for 1-2 days tops though.
I thought the same thing, then I got some sandpaper and a mousepad and learned that it is incredibly easy to get a convex edge hair popping sharp.
I've spent the last few years, and a lot of money looking for a knife to replace my Bravo 1. I've failed miserably, nothing else, that I've tried, comes close.
Between the convex edge, overall thickness and design of the blade, and the unbelievably comfortable handles (they are designed to be secure using the profile of the grip, instead of the texture, so that it grips the same wet or dry. The smooth grips means that they wear your hands less when used) the Bravo 1 is an incredible knife.
The Bravo 1 is the only knife I've ever had that was able to do EVERYTHING I need, and ride comfortably on my belt, high enough to cover with a t-shirt.
Here's my current "user":
Nice knife! How easy was it to learn how to convex? Your knife looks like it has a V grind or is it just the light catching? That's actually what I hear from many Bravo users, the very comfortable handles. Also the thick stock means I can beat it to hell.
I see you got the S35VN, how is it holding up to hard use?
I think the handles on the ESEE knives are very well executed, very comfortable and big enough to use with gloves even for those of us with big hands. The ESEE 4 has a thicker more filling handle than the 3 so you might be happier with that model.
The canvas/linen micarta is perfectly radiused so makes for an even better fit. There is a noticeable difference in the quality level of the handles between my ESEE 3 and Rat 3 (ontario produced) knives so you may want to take that into consideration if you decide to purchase one.
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My Bravo-1 (1. run in A2) has a pretty low edge angle (about 30-35 degrees inclusive) so it can easily be maintained on something like a sharpmaker. You would get a slight V-bevel just at the edge, but that shouldn't be a problem. Convex is easy to maintain and well worth the effort to learn 
My well used B-1 and micro Canadian
For a camp knife I'd go with the slightly longer B-1.5.
PS! I've never met anyone who didn't instantly like the handles on the B1 when trying it out.
My well used B-1 and micro Canadian
For a camp knife I'd go with the slightly longer B-1.5.
PS! I've never met anyone who didn't instantly like the handles on the B1 when trying it out.
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Like NoFair said, if you have a Sharpmaker or something else that will let you set the angles to just below the angle of the convex edge, you can maintain it that way. Over time, you'll end up with a V microbevel that'll just keep getting bigger and bigger until it becomes an actual bevel. The only issue with that is that it leaves the blade behind the edge kind of thick. If you created an actual V-grind edge, it'd be a bit thinner behind the edge and give you somewhat better slicing performance.
Maintaining a convex edge isn't all that hard. The gear isn't expensive and it mostly takes practice to develop your touch & technique. I like convex edges for rougher use field knives. I use V grinds on my EDC & work knives because they're mostly slicersand I use them where I can touch them up on the proper equipment. A field knife, to me anyway, is easier to maintain with a convex edge because you need a lot less to maintain it right when you're in the field.
Maintaining a convex edge isn't all that hard. The gear isn't expensive and it mostly takes practice to develop your touch & technique. I like convex edges for rougher use field knives. I use V grinds on my EDC & work knives because they're mostly slicersand I use them where I can touch them up on the proper equipment. A field knife, to me anyway, is easier to maintain with a convex edge because you need a lot less to maintain it right when you're in the field.
The '3 and '4 have the same handles, which are rounded and smooth, but the '4 has thicker steel so it's thicker in the hand. The '3 balances very nicely, the '4 feels "heavy" because of the poor balance.
The '6 and LS balance perfectly, like absolutely perfect. The handles on the '6 are squared, and the LS is more rounded.
The LaserStrike is the most comfortable knife ESEE makes, and it comes with a perfect kydex sheath that you would have to pay $60 to have made if it were sold seperately - it is that nice.
It was incredibly easy to learn to convex, I feel goofy for putting it off so long. The slight "give" in a strop (leather or a computer mousepad) allows the sandpaper or abrassive material to flex a bit, to ensure that you are removing material at the edge. The hardest part was training myself not to push down on the blade, and let the abrassive do the work for me.
A2 is way easier than 3V or especially S35VN to sharpen, so I would start with that. It does form a patina quickly, from the sweat on your hand and whatever you cut with it, but if you wipe it off before you put it away you shouldn't have problems with real rust forming anywhere. My A2 Bravo 1 stained pretty quickly, but then didn't get any worse. It looks really neat once it gets "seasoned", gives the knife a lot of character. If you ever want to start over, you can send the knife to Bark River for a "Spa Treatment", and they send it back in a couple weeks looking like new and razor sharp. Same deal if you ever damage the knife, send it in and they take care of it.
The edge on mine is convexed, it's just very uniform so it looks that way when the light catches it.
I just got the S35VN, so I haven't had a chance to use it for much. Right now, it seems like my A2 and 3V Bravo 1. I'm told that it takes more time to sharpen, but will hold an edge longer. I'm also told that S35vn is the only stainless steel that performs like tool steel, in that it will roll or bend the edge instead of just chipping, which is what I wanted. I can straighten an edge, but I hate when blades chip. A2 and 3V are like that as well, very very tough.
My Bravo-1 (1. run in A2) has a pretty low edge angle (about 30-35 degrees inclusive) so it can easily be maintained on something like a sharpmaker. You would get a slight V-bevel just at the edge, but that shouldn't be a problem. Convex is easy to maintain and well worth the effort to learn
PS! I've never met anyone who didn't instantly like the handles on the B1 when trying it out.
I plan to learn how to convex eventually but I don't have the time to do so now. It's good to know that I can maintain it on a sharpmaker, I like microbevels.
The handle shape is really what is driving me to the Bravo knife, that palm swell looks like it's going to really hug my hand. To me it kinda looks like the handle of the mora that I have which I find really comfortable.
How hard would it be to create and actual V-grind without power tools? I have an edge pro so holding the angle should be easy. I quite proficient with the edge pro and have done anywhere from 8cr13mov all the way to S90V on it with no problems.
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How about Benchmades new design, http://www.bladehq.com/item--Benchmade-162-Bushcrafter-Siebert--14823
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If it's A2, that's not too hard to work. So if you have an Edge Pro and you're good and consistent with it, you should be able to handle the conversion yourself. I don't use an Edge Pro so someone with more Edge Pro experience might have better insight, but I know what they look like. Seems to me that you'd want to decide what angle you want and work on one side until you have taken that bevel all the way to the edge of the blade. Then turn the knife over, make sure you're holding the blade in the same location on this side, and then create the edge bevel on the second side all the way to the edge of the blade. Once you have the initial bevel established, you can work your way through the finer grit stones to refine it.
I imagine that it will take a bit of time, even with the Edge Pro, but keep your work slow and steady... don't get heavy-handed. Let the stones do the work and just take whatever time it takes.