Help With DIY Curing Oven

C

centuryofy2j

Joined
Jul 3, 2015
Messages
3
I've been trying to build my first curing oven and have ran into a problem. I'm completely new to electrical wiring in most aspects that why I turn to more experienced. When I plug in the oven the PID works when I turn on the timer and the toggle switch but the heating elements won't turn on and the ssr doesn't light up. I'm using someone else's wiring diagram with the same equipments but the only changes I did was added an extra heating element. Attached my diagram and will provide pictures if needed. Thank you

I'm using: AGPtek® K-Type SNR PID Temperature Controller
ESUMIC 25Amp SSR-25DA Solid State Relays for Temperature Controller


6t0nthwu5
 
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The biggest thing I see is the ground on the coils??? Coils should not have a ground. If the get grounded you could get a severe shock.

The SSR should be on a heat sink, or it may fail quickly.

1) I suggest you test the SSR to see if it is closing when power is applied from the PID. Cheap SSRs are often bad from the start.
2) Check that there is +/- power coming from the PID to the SSR when the PID turns the SSR on. (also, make sure they go from + to + and - to -)
3) Check that the PID is programmed right and in the RUN mode ( the PID should read something like ON/RUN/etc).
 
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Century,

1. As Stacy pointed out, the coils should sit between the hot ("positive" in your terms) coming out of the SSR and the neutral (aka "return") wire.

2. I would add a switch between pin 4 on the SSR and the the PID. Opening this switch will let you play with the PID without the coils powering up. This is an appropriate place to put a door safety switch as well.

3. Wall light timer??? I don't know what coils you're using but I assume this will draw 10 amps or more. I strongly doubt your timer is rated for this. It's probably going to catch fire.

4. You seem confused about what earth ground ("common ground" in your terms -- which is wrong) is for. In any metal-cased appliance you will find this wired to the case as a "chassis ground". The purpose of this is in case via miswiring or some physical failure the hot line touches the case and you touch the case that you do not become the best path to ground.

Your root problem seems PID related. All the cheap Chinese PID controllers are quirky. I have an AGPTek and I think I had to screw with some setting to get it to turn on initially. And the manual... well... at least they're cheap :).

The general vibe here is to generally not help people who are electrically incompetent with their oven builds since we'd feel bad if you died. I'm sure your immediate goal is to get this oven working. It's not a bad idea to find an intro to electrical class at a local community college. I think I took one that was geared more for blue collar jobs and it was super easy but very helpful. Electricity is easy to understand but hard for a lot of people to understand without hands on experience.

Also if you do not have a multimeter please immediately order one off of Amazon. You need to be able to check things on your circuit before you light those elements up.
 
Where are you?

Although most of the members active in the makers areas seem to be in the USA, this is a worldwide forum. Voltages and grounding conventions are very different in different parts of the world. Even if someone offers advice that is safe and correct in their location, following it in another location can leave you looking very silly or very dead. Sometimes both.

Putting your location in your details is not some unnecessary intrusion into your personal privacy, it's a useful tool which lets anyone trying to help to know whether their advice is more likely to get you running on all cylinders, or get you killed.
 
I'm actually in the USA and the coils I'm using are from a charcoal starter where I split the power cords. This oven is actually a powder coating oven for cerakoting. I'm not sure if the PID is actually in the "on" position but the light indication "OUT1" is on which indicates an output.
 
Charcoal starter? Why? Heating elements are $5 on Amazon. This makes me wonder what your enclosure looks like? Is there firebrick involved or something wacky?

Ok, so your PID says it's turned on its output. Great. What is the DC voltage across the SSR pins 3 and 4? What is the AC voltage across SSR pins 1 and 2?
 
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