Help with drilling bocote

[ilbruche]

I've been working on some bocote firesteels but I've had some problems with drilling the holes for the rods and the lanyard holes. I don't have a drill press so I have to do the drilling with a regular power drill. Besides being difficult to get the hole straight I've had a couple handles crack when drilling the lanyard holes.

Bocote is fairly hard so the bits are not clearing out as much material as they would on softer wood. I've had them crack while trying to use the drill to clear out all of the material in the hole, the bit sticks and cracks the handle.

Should I do a small pilot hole first and then increase the bit size?
Should I be drilling fast or slow?
My selection of power tools is limited now, but soon I'll be getting a little drill press and later a little band saw as well.

Thanks!

 

[SteelSlaver]

I take it you are trying to drill a fairly deep hole in the bacote. Make sure the bit is sharp and try drilling a bit and then removing the drill and cleaning the voids between the flutes. Some woods and metals fill this area and it doesn't clear and in effect gives you nothing but a rod rod on the drill end. It would help to secure the wood firmly even if not using a press. Speed is not nessesary and is usually not good. On pilot holes I recently learned, from a conversation with a good machinist, that the pilot hole should not be much larger than the thickness of the web in the center of your finish drill. If the hole is to big and the material not real hard the next bigger bit will bite to much and try to tread itself into the hole (pull itself in) and either stall the drill or cause other problems. I now have a small brass cannon with a 11/16ths hole that is being a bit of a bear to drill to 3/4 with my small lathe. I should have asked the machinist first LOL. Good luck

 

[ilbruche]

the next bigger bit will bite to much and try to tread itself into the hole (pull itself in) and either stall the drill or cause other problems.

That is exactly what it does. It pulled through and then cracked the wood. I was trying to go all the way through and then back it up to clear the remaining wood. I think I'll try a very small pilot hole first, then I can drill from both sides. Where the bit exits it is usually rough and pieces chip off, I think this would alleviate the cracking problem.

 

[John L]

If you have a standard drill size(multiples of 1/16") then buy a brad point bit.. CLean entry, clean exit if not pushed too hard at the exit and very clean hole. SHould drill bocote with ease. Bit should cost less than $5.

 

[jmar595]

YES, your pilot hole should be very small. #40 or so. What is your finished hole size? As far as keeping it straight, put it in a vise. Are you trying to drill it before you form the handle or after? If you drill it before while you have a flat surface, then you can try finding a drill block. It is a square block about 1 1/2" square, about 3/8" (maybe a little wider0 wide, with a v groove on two sides that meet, the other two sides are flat. You hold the block flat on the object and put the bit against the side of the v block in a groove. This works really well. If you can't find this, you may be able to find a flat bottom bushing. This will be a piece of metal with a hole in it of the size you will drill, make sure to have one for your pilot hole and one for your finished size so that you can keep your hole straight. You may need to drill with a small pilot and then go up in size very slowly, this will help to avoid the bit grabbing the wood so much. Hope this helps, this is all I do all day is drill holes. I work on aircraft and we are refurbishing wings, a lot of holes, this is how we drill them, with v blocks and bushings. The v block will be your best bet to go up in hole size slowly, you only need one v block for all the hole sizes compared to a different bushing for each size.

 

[ilbruche]

What is your finished hole size?

Are you trying to drill it before you form the handle or after?

Finished hole size for the lanyard is 13/64.

I drill the holes first, then do the shaping.

These are my unfinished ones. You can see the piece on top which cracked while drilling.

 

[jmar595]

That hole is very close to the edge. I'd try moving a little further in. Try what I told you with the v block and goin up in size slowly. This should help the issue. Beautiful wood. It would be very aggrevating to mess up something like that. Where did you get the bocote from if you don;t mind me asking? I bought a piece on ebay, but I never recieved it, don't think I ever will.

 

[ilbruche]

That hole is very close to the edge. I'd try moving a little further in. Try what I told you with the v block and goin up in size slowly. This should help the issue. Beautiful wood. It would be very aggrevating to mess up something like that. Where did you get the bocote from if you don;t mind me asking? I bought a piece on ebay, but I never recieved it, don't think I ever will.

The piece on top doesn't show the part that broke off, it was about 1/2".

I got it on ebay. I got 4 squares 7 1/2" by 1 7/8" by 1 7/8" for $16.

I cut these pieces from the block that had the most sapwood. I plan on using 2 more for handles and one for scales or a handle.

 

[mdoyle]

JohnL said the most important one I think....Bradpoint drill bit. The right tool for the job makes all the difference.:thumbup: Pilot size is very important too but not as important as the bradpoint wood bit IMHO
Matt Doyle

 

[ilbruche]

JohnL said the most important one I think....Bradpoint drill bit. The right tool for the job makes all the difference.:thumbup: Pilot size is very important too but not as important as the bradpoint wood bit IMHO
Matt Doyle

Seems to be the way to go. I'll have to pick some up.

I just went out and did a 7/64" pilot followed by a 7/32" bit for the lanyard hole. I did the pilot first, then went half way on both sides with the larger bit. I think the brad points would be perfect.

thanks.