Help with final cleaning

I have yet to try CPM S30V, but have made a few from CPM S60V in past years. I plan to use the S30V on future knives and talked to some makers that use it at the OKCA show. The general feeling is that one needs to have it quite close to "done" before heat treat and temper. If there are deep scratches after that, assume they will stay there. If they are out, you can finish a flat grind with 220, then 600, then 1000, then 2500 grit wet/dry paper. Once satisfied, either leave it at 2500 or do a final buff with green chrome. Others will need to pitch in here for a hollow grinding technique.
 
Jim, I have the knife finished. How do you clean them before you take pictures, box them for gift giving, sale, etc.? It's a kitchen knife, so I would prefer to not oil it.
 
Sorry for the misunderstanding. My opinion is that the blade needs no special "cleaning" as it is a stainless steel, anyway. Just wipe it down with a clean soft rag and wrap it in paper to secure it in a flat rate mailing box (USPS my preference). My chefs knives normally get a drawer sheath. Just something to protect the blade and fellow drawermates if the person has no knife block. The drawer sheath consists of a top and bottom piece of leather with a welt sewn in. I would insert a picture if I could figure out how to do it. The functionality of this site recently took a downward turn in that regard. Okay, I figured it out (need the advanced feature).
 

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My full size Kitchen , Fillet, and Sashimi blades get wiped down with acetone, buffed off with a soft and clean cloth, and then I put on an edge guard. It is a piece of the slotted plastic that band saw blades come with on their edge. I place a rubber band on each end to make sure it stays in place. Then I roll it in heavy craft paper and fold the ends in. Tape is all that finishes the wrap ( watch the gal at Subway for the technique). A USPS flat rate box is the preferred mailing container.

On smaller knives, I wrap the knife in a piece of paper and fold in the ends. Then I slide it in a paper towel tube ( I save all of them) to make it secure. Staple the ends shut, and put in the USPS box.

On fighter style and dagger blades, I put a cork on the blade tip to prevent the blade piercing the box when ( not if) the mail handlers throw it around in delivery.

For drawer queens, providing a plastic/nylon blade sheath ( kitchen store or online) is an inexpensive and professional touch.

Photographs are another animal, and there are great tutorial threads and sites available on the subject.
 
I saw some blade guards in a McMaster Carr catalog, might give those a try. My issue is with fingerprints. Some knives barely show them, mine seem to highlight them. Didn't matter if it was on a media blasted finish or hand rubbed. Could that be part of the natural patina? Should I use them in the kitchen to prep a few meals?
 
Acetone helps remove anything from the blade and when it evaporates leaves little or no residue and can be washed with soapy water. You could box them up while wearing rubber or cloth gloves to not leave finger oil.
 
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