help with kitchen table gun project....

Runs With Scissors

Runs With Scissors

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Dec 3, 2000
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Several different places on the internet I could have posted this one, but...y'all are quite honestly about the most likable of the bunch, and I know there's alot of home project tinkergnomes runnin' amock around here so...here's my problem....


I've got a Cimarron Arms Bisley .45 Colt Single Action Revolver...I've come to REALLY like this gun. Cimarron Arms quality control is at times a bit sketchy, but....I definitely got one of the best with this one. Thusly, it's become one of my most frequently carried weapons. How frequently carried? Last night in Anchorage it was snugly in my belt under my flanel while I walked downtown. (not a normal selection for CCW ya' know) I simply like it alot, and therefore carry it and shoot it alot. Most of the dings on it I simply consider to add character. The only thing going on cosmetically is that the case hardening has been completely wiped clean off the frame, leaving it purely shiny, which I really don't like the appearance of. So...I'm wondering how to rectify that? I recently saw an acid etched knife in The Gallery. Looks like that might work...but...uhmmm...how you do dat? pour Lemon juice on it and let it soak overnight?:confused: Browning? blueing? Blueing would be a last resort.

Anything y'all might be able to suggest?
 
Holy Moly. I don't know what to advise. I knew certain cleaners would injure color case hardening, but that sounds wierd to me.

There are gunsmiths who own bluing tanks, you know, and for 50 bucks might do it. If you intent upon doing it yourself, I'll be delighted to read what occurs in this thread.




munk
 
munk said:
Holy Moly. I don't know what to advise. I knew certain cleaners would injure color case hardening, but that sounds wierd to me.

There are gunsmiths who own bluing tanks, you know, and for 50 bucks might do it. If you intent upon doing it yourself, I'll be delighted to read what occurs in this thread.
munk
Click to expand...

Yeah...that's kinda the wierd thing....I've never cleaned the outside with anything but some WD-40 after stomping around in the rain awhile,I use Tetra gun for actual lubricating, and a splash of Hoppes every once in awhile for the bore. You'd think case hardening could survive that much?

At this point I got much more imagination that I do money to put forth. I'll keep ya' tuned in on the results, and might even be able to squeeze in a picture or two.
 
RWS?

Don't do anything rash. Hang on for a while.

If it has been done to metal, someone here has done it.
 
Sounds like it may have only had a decorative case effect laid on top. Can you tell if the metal is hard or soft?

Case hardening can be pretty easily done with a MAP torch and the case material. Brownells should carry what you need.
 
Nasty said:
Sounds like it may have only had a decorative case effect laid on top. Can you tell if the metal is hard or soft?

Case hardening can be pretty easily done with a MAP torch and the case material. Brownells should carry what you need.
Click to expand...


If scratches from use and abuse are any indication, I would say hard. Any other ways to tell?
 
Take a gander here:

http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/case.htm

I'm by no means an expert on the subject but from what I understand, the colors on the surface are left over oxides from the heat treating process. When they're gone, they're gone. You'll have to heat treat the part again to get them back.

Remember what the article said - there's no change in the character of the steel, just its appearance.
 
If you are packing it under your coat why care? However, Brownell`s sells casenit? that will case harden it or oxyblue which will darken it.
The CASS forum would know.
 
I appreciate all the input. It appears that simply case hardening it again isn't gonna be the PITA I'd imagined, as long as I can get the casenit shipped up here for a reasonable cost.

Last time I went through Brownells was for a can of black teflon finish, that was like $15-$20....they wanted to charge me $200 for a Haz-Mat shipping fee.:eek:

As usual with these kinda posts this one was answered quickly enough to make me feel silly. one day I'll learn to use Google before asking these questions....
 
One thing to remember, the case colors are very delicate, and very "shallow'. So is the hardening, unless it is a type of steel that can be through hardened.

A clear lacquer is normally used to protect the colors.

If the steel is still hard, you don't need the casenit.

A propane or similar torch will color it for you, after a fashion. It would be really excellent to have all the parts removed from the frame, including the barrel, before doing this.

Heat a spot on the metal, let it quickly come up to yellow or purple, then move to another area. Sometimes move around, sometomes not. It is a good idea to cool it off in between each time you color a spot, so the heat doesn't build up. You will want to practice on scrap steel, but the results will vary.

I have gotten mixed results with this method myself, but it always looks better than bare metal.

take care,

Tom
 
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