Help with Kydex

josh81

josh81

Joined
Jan 11, 2016
Messages
435
Hi everybody I hope I'm posting in the right place. I'm having a hell of a time with Kydex. I've built a press, using the small hammer set tool, rivets, and a few small sheets of material. My main goal is to be able to sell my knives with something basic to protect them and is usable if the buyer wants to. So far I'm not getting anywhere. My biggest question is how to attach the belt loops without the rivets/screws scratching the blade. No matter what I do the handle or blade rubs the screws. I've searched on here but didn't find exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for any help and sorry for the rookie questions.
 
Pics? I assume you're trying to attach your loops in the middle of the sheath? Simple solution is not to do that. Attach to the eyelets on the side. If you're dead set on center attachment, take some double sided tape and attach something to the blade before forming to mold in a recessed area.
 
You could also leave them without belt loops and just space the eyelets for a Teklok or something similar.
 
Kiah said:
Pics? I assume you're trying to attach your loops in the middle of the sheath? Simple solution is not to do that. Attach to the eyelets on the side. If you're dead set on center attachment, take some double sided tape and attach something to the blade before forming to mold in a recessed area.
Click to expand...
That's a good idea I'll give that a shot. Thank you

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
evlDan said:
You could also leave them without belt loops and just space the eyelets for a Teklok or something similar.
Click to expand...
I'm still a little confused on how that would work. Seems like I would have the same issue. It's probably just me in sure.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
We sell a fair amount of kydex and the drop loops are all attached on the eyelets. Having it set up this way you can easily take that loop off and add on a tek lok or molle lok.

I've messed around with the material to make a few small things. If I had to do any more than a few items I would definitely buy an arbor press made for setting the eyelets. Using hand tools for that was a PITA for me and gave me inconsistent results.

bravo1_kydex_black_orange_rivets__79307.1430225162.500.659.JPG
 
Eric@DLT said:
We sell a fair amount of kydex and the drop loops are all attached on the eyelets. Having it set up this way you can easily take that loop off and add on a tek lok or molle lok.

I've messed around with the material to make a few small things. If I had to do any more than a few items I would definitely buy an arbor press made for setting the eyelets. Using hand tools for that was a PITA for me and gave me inconsistent results.

bravo1_kydex_black_orange_rivets__79307.1430225162.500.659.JPG
Click to expand...
Ya I think the dies and an harbor press are in order. I was hoping to have the knife hanging straight down but I may have to go that route and have them hanging horizontal.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Don't let the angle of the photo fool you, the sheath does hang straight down. No matter if you make your own drop loops or use tek loks, the attachment point would be on the eyelets. Even if you do a taco style kydex you will have the eyelets on the blade side that you can use, this is just how we have them setup.
 
Eric@DLT said:
Don't let the angle of the photo fool you, the sheath does hang straight down. No matter if you make your own drop loops or use tek loks, the attachment point would be on the eyelets. Even if you do a taco style kydex you will have the eyelets on the blade side that you can use, this is just how we have them setup.
Click to expand...
OK that makes sense. Thanks for all your help. I just ordered the dies for the
rivets. That should help as well

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
I think your saying the screws are scratching the blade?


What I've done on numerous holsters and assume it would work on knives is recess a screw area by putting a piece of wood were I want my screws prior to molding. Not thick at all maybe .25 - .50 thus your screws are off set and will not scratch your knife

Second you could put your belt attachment on your rivet line with screw through the rivet holes this is by far what most people do
 
James w said:
I think your saying the screws are scratching the blade?


What I've done on numerous holsters and assume it would work on knives is recess a screw area by putting a piece of wood were I want my screws prior to molding. Not thick at all maybe .25 - .50 thus your screws are off set and will not scratch your knife

Second you could put your belt attachment on your rivet line with screw through the rivet holes this is by far what most people do
Click to expand...
Ya that's the part I think I was missing when I started. I think I have a game plan. I've got some stuff ordered and I'll try to get some pictures up when I cobble something together. Thanks for taking the time to reply everyone.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Well I'm getting closer I think. Now I just need to do the belt loop. I ordered some nylon webbing. I think I might go that route. Ya it's definitely purple.
4dc9ad0ccf441c7ce36577ca15932e33.jpg


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
josh81 said:
Well I'm getting closer I think. Now I just need to do the belt loop. I ordered some nylon webbing. I think I might go that route. Ya it's definitely purple.
4dc9ad0ccf441c7ce36577ca15932e33.jpg


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Because the sheath is for a smaller sized knife you might consider using a tek lok instead

Second because nylon webbing is extreamly flexible using it for the belt loop portion would hinder the draw since when you pull the knife up the sheath would come with it until you get to the end of the webbing in other words the sheath would be pulle with the knife all the way up to the top


This may not be a problem since its a smaller knife but I ran into that problem when making a sheath for a gerber big rock
 
I finished up this knife the other day. I really wanted to make a decent sheath for it, especially after the purple failure. It took several attempts and far longer than it should have but I'm happy with the results. I know it's nothing spectacular but it locks up solid, doesn't scratch or drag on the blade, and the belt loop is way better than my nylon webbing idea. Thanks for everyone who helped out.
d4e5b3fda01036f847d3e2c183a2a70e.jpg


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Looks good are u using a heat gun ?

If your using an oven get an infrared thermometer and you won't burn the sheaths nearly as often

You might want a drain hole to

One question how did you flare the top out?
 
James w said:
Looks good are u using a heat gun ?

If your using an oven get an infrared thermometer and you won't burn the sheaths nearly as often

You might want a drain hole to

One question how did you flare the top out?
Click to expand...
I'm using a toaster oven but I used a heat gun and didn't realize where it was pointed while I was looking away doing something else. That's where the burn mark came from. For the flare I just heated it up slightly right on the edge and rolled it out and held it in place with my thumb.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
I have used the drill method and the dowel I like the dowel method better. But you could also just heat it and push something in the end if you forgot to add one.
 
I generally use a little circular piece of meta but sometimes I forget then I just use a drill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top