Help with Lansky sharpener

Joined
May 25, 2000
Messages
30
I love knives, but I am the world's worst knife sharpener. I usually just dull the knife more and end up having to send it back to be sharpened by the company. I just got a cqc7 tanto Emerson about a week ago and it is dull already. I'm thinking about buying a Lansky sharpening system. It seems idiot proof. Question is does it really work? and how well does it do chisel ground edges? I own quite few other knives, AFCK, ENDURA, Harpy, CS Voyager, and a civilian on the way! I have never burned up an edge like the cqc7's is this common for this knife? Any help would be apprecaited.






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b.p
 
i have a four hone diamond Lansky with and added extra fine it works great but most people are telling me I should go to the Sharpmaker 204 I'd look into this at 1sks.

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Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get me.
 
A lot has been said about the Lansky in old threads. I read some of the discussion before I purchased the Deluxe model. I find that it works well enough although it has certain flaws- the angle is not constant throughout the length of the blade. I suppose the variance is small because I can usually raise a burr without too much trouble. Sharpening still perplexes me though. Anyway, I own the 203 and can't get that thing to work at all. I plan to purchase a couple of razor edge hones and giudes soon. That will teach me how to grind freehand eventually. You might consider this option. Razoredgesystems.com
 
I`ve got a Lansky and have had good luck with it.There are a couple things to look out for though.When you mount the knife in the jig be sure the two halves are perfectly parallel.In other words make sure the gap between the two halves of the jig is even.Also,even though they supply several sets of guide rods,I only use one and switch it to the next finer stone when I`m ready to change.I`ve noticed quite a bit of variation between the rods.It`s not a perfect system but within it`s limitations most people should be able to make it work.

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~Gordon~
 
I have a Lansky and have had good success with it. I bought the man-made stones, but would recommend the diamond stones...especially if you need to change the factory angle. A couple of things I've learned..

When clamping the blade, be sure to keep the depth of clamping within the small recessed portion of the clamps. This allows for consistent blade positioning for subsequent sharpenings.

If the blade you wish to sharpen does not have some space on the spline where no grind is present you're gonna have trouble clamping. In other words, you need a good flat spot on the spline to clamp. For example, most of SOG's aggressive swedge grinds on the spline are very difficult to clamp consistently. I've had more luck with the Spyderco for these types of blades.

I've recently started using the Lansky only to get the basic angle right up to ~ 200-300 grit. I now finish sharpening by hand with a DMT combo diamond stone with extremely good results. I can get the blades to consistently pass the toilet paper tests now.

my $0.02

wayne
 
If you have the $$$ you may want to get a coarse bench stone (maybe a diamond one) and the 204 Sharpmaker. Use the bench stone to improve relief (back bevel) and the sharpmaker to put on the actual edge. The 204 doesn't work if you just do the 20 strokes per side thing- there's more to sharpening than that. I haven't used the lansky but I did have a gatco but my current equipment (204, Razor's Edge Pro kit and an electric waterstone wheel sharpener thingy from Sears for grindind relief on some blades) is leagues above the lansky-type setups in my opinion. Read Joe's FAQ and the Razor's Edge Book of Sharpening if you can before buying equipment- or e-mail Joe Talmadge himself.

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"Come What May..."
 
I too am the worst sharpener in the world. I got the Lansky and I think you should too. Not because it really works, but because you can use it without being scared of really screwing up a knife. After 2 or 3 uses you will scrap the rods and clamps. But again, get the Lansky to start. Don't get the diamond ones because you will replace this with the spyderco or bigger diamond stones later. In fact, get the cheapest copy of a Lansky if you can find it. Then read the Joe Talmadge sharpening FAQ and have fun learning. That's exactly what I did and I am improving quickly.
 
The real advantage of the Lansky system is that it maintains a consistent angle throughout the process and that makes edges as sharp as they can be. Understand, though, that you need to grind the bevels on the blade to one of the present angles. Use the Extra coarse or coarse stones to do this. Just work them until a light stroke in either direction turns the burr over and then go to the next grit. Once the angles are ground, maintenance is quick and easy. Take care.


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Fred
Knife Outlet
http://www.knifeoutlet.com
 
I use the Lansky. Its a good system. I have the deluxe system, but I never use the ultra fine, I've found that all it does is put a scratchy finish on the edge. It just annoys me. I'm getting a hard arkansas for it extra. I just can't live without the hard arkansas hone. If I were you, I'd purchase the standard kit and then get a hard arkansas hone extra. It will put a good clean polish on it. Only problem with it is it will hold knives with no flat spot along the spine. My Jaguar balisong wouldn't fit straight into the clamp. So I pulled it out and use the hones freehand. Only problem with the man made stones is that they don't cut the metal away quickly enough for me. When I got my 730 from Benchmade, the edge was ground horribly. It was ground and too steep. It was ground almost 30-degrees on each edge and the end of the edge had been polished until it was round and very dull. It wouldn't cut anything. I had to spend an hour on it with my extra coarse and coarse hones just to get it down to the usual 20 degree edge. You might also want to make a strop. After finishing with the Lansky, take a leather strop and rub some mild abrasives into it and strop your knife's edge out on it. It will polish the edge more cleanly and remove any small burrs. I rub Turtlewax polishes onto the leather and it works fine. I think I'm the only person to do that... it works pretty well. They have a brown cream and some white creams. Both will work fine (the brown is a little stronger). Anyways, hope this helps...
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-Chang the Asian Janitorial Apparatus
 
Also... did I mention that the angle slots on the Lansky are wrong? The real angles are a little different from what they say they are.

The clamp is approximately 3.5835" long from the tip to the point where the angle section sticks out. When the clamp is shut completely with nothing in it (with the clamp halves parallel), the angle guide holes are located 0.875", 1.171875", 1.5", and 1.828125" above where the center of the edge would be (for a double bevel knife) for the 17-degree, 20-degree, 25-degree, and 30-degree slots, respectively.

So let us say you place it so the tip of the edge is 0.5" in front of the tip of the clamp. That means the tip of the edge is located 4.0835" from the front of the angle selector part. Using the trigonometry I learned in high school (finally it has a use).... arc tan (h/4.0835) = x. X represents the real angle. Fill in h with the height of the angle selector (I stated it earlier). So... if I were to stick a knife with no thickness into the clamp (and have 1/2" stick out) and tighten it so the clamp halves remained parallel, and then put the hones (make sure the guide bars are same level as the hone's abrasive material) into the 30-degree slot, I would end up with a real angle of approximately 24.1174-degrees. Not exactly 30-degrees.

This however assumes that the knife has no thickness. If the knife has a thickness (all knives do), the letter h in my equation will be the height of the angle selector used PLUS half of the thickness in inches. This is for double bevel knives. If it is chisel ground, you will just add the height of the angle selector and the thickness (without halving it). Using this value of h, you will get the real angle. So when you put your CQC-7B into the clamp (1/8" thickness) with half an inch sticking out, your real angle when using the 30-degree selector is 25.5616-degrees. You'd be more than 4-degrees off the desired 30-degrees were you to do this. If you wanted a real 30-degrees, I would suggest using the very top of the clamp as the bottom of an angle guide. Close it in by duct taping chopsticks to the side or something. If you have the same setup with the CQC-7B, you should end up with 29.854-degrees using the top of the clamp instead of angle guide. This probably is very confusing.
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Actually there is an easier way to do this... a protractor.
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Anyways, I'm confusing myself now.... so if there is any confusion, just e-mail me, I'm programming my graphing calculator to do all this stuff. OK, sorry guys, I know it looks like nonsensical scrawl and nothing more, but it sure works for me.
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Also, if you use this method of calculating angles, and you screw your knife up because I made a big typo... it isn't my fault.
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I'll just say that my pocket torx kit typed all this and pretend I had nothing to do with it.

-Chang the Asian Janitorial Apparatus
 
Thanks for all the advice guys! I felt uneasy about admitting the embarrasing fact that I cannot sharpen my knives but now I feel better. I going to try a Lansky and see wht happens. Anyone want to send me their Microtech to test sharpen?
 
Uhm, I can give you my Changmade "Sebenza" to sharpen. If only I could find it... it was lost somewhere at school. Nobody thought it was a knife. Because... it wasn't.
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It was a folding ruler with a cardboard framelock (and it really did lock).
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-Chang the Asian Janitorial Apparatus
 

Chang the Asian Janitorial/Mathematics Apparatus
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It's only a mistake if you fail to learn from it!
 
Come 'rad-Chang,
For your info: when you subtract 5 degrees from Lansky angles, you are "quite close".
On the other hand: Gatco's angles are correct, if the sharpening is done with the blade protruding 1/2" out of the clamp.
Happy sharpening
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D.T. UTZINGER
 
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