Help with Lansky

[bfr57]

Trying out a Lansky system since it was recommended. I can get a medium blade on it, but just not the sharpness I'm looking for. The knife I'm sharpening is a Kershaw assist opening with 1550ST. The Lansky has 5 stones ranging from coarse to ultra-fine. What is the best angle? What might I be doing to not get a great edge? Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Dakki]

Assuming a consistent technique (eg, raise a burr all along one side, flip, raise a burr all along second side, flip, polish burr off) the lower the angle you use the sharper but more delicate the edge will be. Using a finer stone to polish the edge will result in better push-cutting, which is how most people measure sharpness, while stopping at a coarser stone will supposedly leave "micro-serrations" that make slicing easier. Also, a more-polished edge will supposedly last longer.

As for what angle is absolutely "best" it depends on what you're using the knife for and how often you're willing to touch up the blade. For my pocket knives I use the 20 deg angle simply because the blades are usually to skinny to use the 17 deg on as the clamp gets in the way a lot.

 

[bfr57]

So, how many strokes do you do on a side before flipping over? I use the knife for everyday stuff.

 

[Dakki]

I don't count the strokes, just keep going until there's a burr all along one side. Even on a given knife and using the exact same angle on the edge how many strokes to give it will vary depending on how much metal you're taking off (eg how dull the blade has gotten) and how coarse the stone is (the finer the stone, the slower-cutting it is, for a given type of stone).

When you reprofile (change the angle of the bevel, usually making it thinner as most knives come with a ridiculously thick edge for their purpose) the whole edge, it takes a pretty long time even on an extra-coarse stone.

 

[Morrow]

I don't count the strokes, just keep going until there's a burr all along one side. Even on a given knife and using the exact same angle on the edge how many strokes to give it will vary depending on how much metal you're taking off (eg how dull the blade has gotten) and how coarse the stone is (the finer the stone, the slower-cutting it is, for a given type of stone).

When you reprofile (change the angle of the bevel, usually making it thinner as most knives come with a ridiculously thick edge for their purpose) the whole edge, it takes a pretty long time even on an extra-coarse stone.

I do mostly freehand but I use the Lansky for reprofiling. Get the diamond "stones" for the Lansky. They cut much better and will save you a lot of time. I tried to reprofile a RAT-3 (D2) with the original stones and it took forever (hours).

 

[sasu]

I bought a similar Gatco set for reprofiling. The stones do not have much bite, so the first thing I had to do was buy a couple diamond hones.

I paint the edge with a felt tip pen so I know when I have done a complete grind. Another way check that is to feel for the burr on the opposite side.

 

[Throttle_monkey1]

Hi guys, new to the forums,

I use a lansky diamond/stone set, but use a gatco clamp, I like the 22 deg angle. I find it takes a trained eye to inspect the edge when sharpening. I do one side, and look at the egde under a light to see that it is uniform. Then i do the other side, which should have a burr on it. When that side is done, i wipe the blade off, and move to the next stone or diamond. and do the first side. I do the same procedure until I have finished with the 1000 grit stone.

I then wipe off the blade and run it up and down the "furry" side of a leather belt. This process leaves my blades incredibly sharp, and works for me. I am sure there are other who get their blades even sharper, but I can easily shave my face with this method. cheers.

 

[rifon2]

Hi guys, new to the forums,

I use a lansky diamond/stone set, but use a gatco clamp, I like the 22 deg angle. I find it takes a trained eye to inspect the edge when sharpening. I do one side, and look at the egde under a light to see that it is uniform. Then i do the other side, which should have a burr on it. When that side is done, i wipe the blade off, and move to the next stone or diamond. and do the first side. I do the same procedure until I have finished with the 1000 grit stone.

I then wipe off the blade and run it up and down the "furry" side of a leather belt. This process leaves my blades incredibly sharp, and works for me. I am sure there are other who get their blades even sharper, but I can easily shave my face with this method. cheers.

Welcome to BladeForums.

Thanks for the info.

One question - why do you use the Lansky diamond hones rather than the Gatco?

 

[Throttle_monkey1]

Well, my old man bought a gatco set when he was down in the US last year. It only came with three diamonds, coarse, medium, and fine. My lansky came with the same three diamonds, but I bought a 600 and 1000 stone.

I found it better to use the same brand of stones, ensuring a better finish. I do like the gatco clamp much better, and really like 22 degrees. I even have a holder for the gatco clamp, which makes things alot easier.

I found with both the lansky and gatco, if only using the coarse, medium and fine diamonds, the edge isn't very polished.

I guess the only reason I use the lansky is because the stones were much easier to find up here in canada and they are not as bulky as the gatco ones. cheers.

 

[rifon2]

Well, my old man bought a gatco set when he was down in the US last year. It only came with three diamonds, coarse, medium, and fine. My lansky came with the same three diamonds, but I bought a 600 and 1000 stone.

I found it better to use the same brand of stones, ensuring a better finish. I do like the gatco clamp much better, and really like 22 degrees. I even have a holder for the gatco clamp, which makes things alot easier.

I found with both the lansky and gatco, if only using the coarse, medium and fine diamonds, the edge isn't very polished.

I guess the only reason I use the lansky is because the stones were much easier to find up here in canada and they are not as bulky as the gatco ones. cheers.

Cool, thanks.

 

[armilite]

Had two of these horrible devices and couldn't get a blade sharp enough to cut my own throat. Wich is what I felt like doing after trying to use them.

To me they just don't work, piece of junk! others on this form like them some what.

In my opinion do yourself a big favor and go buy an EDGEPRO.
Blows Lansky Away.

armilite

 

[armilite]

Had two of these horrible devices and couldn't get a blade sharp enough to cut my own throat. Witch is what I felt like doing after trying to use them.

To me they just don't work, piece of junk! others on this form like them some what.

In my opinion do yourself a big favor and go buy an EDGEPRO.
Blows Lansky Away.

armilite

 

[Morrow]

Had two of these horrible devices and couldn't get a blade sharp enough to cut my own throat. Witch is what I felt like doing after trying to use them.

To me they just don't work, piece of junk! others on this form like them some what.

In my opinion do yourself a big favor and go buy an EDGEPRO.
Blows Lansky Away.

armilite

Clearly enough people use them successfully so there is no reason to debate whether or not they actually work. They do work if you learn to use them. The EDGEPRO is a great product and super easy to use.....are you packing that up in your bag for a camping trip? I doubt it. The Lansky folds up in small and very portable package. The price difference between these products also should be considered.

 

[Bridges]

When a new knife needs sharpening, I always start with a coarse stone, one even pass on each side. this usually results in a lot of passes, but I continue until a burr starts to form.
After the burr starts, I switch to the medium stone. Now I am not so much interested in a burr as I am in removing the grinding marks left by the coarse stone. If I am doing all correctly there well be a burr when the coarse marks are gone.
A few strokes with a fine stone and then I switch to 1000 grit sandpaper, when all marks from the fine stone are gone I switch to the 3000 grit sandpaper.

I have couple of Lanskys, I don't use them much anymore, they are very good however, as is my DMT sharpening system, but I find I can do a better job with hand stones. My EdgePro has its place also, but it too has a learning curve.
I like the DMT diamond hand stones, as no liquid is required, they are easily carried.
I also use Arkansas stones, (translucent and black), and I have a couple of Japanese waterstones.

Knife sharpening to me (with hand stones) was a skill acquired from lots and lots of repetition. A lansky also has a learning curve, its just a less steeper curve.

Roy

 

[Nosetotail]

one even pass on each side. this usually results in a lot of passes, but I continue until a burr starts to form.

This has me a bit baffled. I've been thinking that if I do one pass each side that I'm eliminating the burr I have created even if I'm using my coarse stone. I start with medium pressure with several strokes per side, and eventual work down to very light pressure at several strokes then work that down to very light pressure at one stroke per side. If I'm sticking with my coarse, is that going to still leave a burr and if so, how do I get rid of it without going to my finer stones?

Your description has me rethinking the whole burr concept.

 

[Nosetotail]

What might I be doing to not get a great edge?

If you don't set the knife in exactly the same position on the holder each time you use it, you change the bevel, or make a new one. I center my holder, or cheat it very very slightly away from the tip and I use my coarsest stone to scratch marks on the back side of my knife against either edge of my holder to ensure I have a permanant mark to place my holder between. You can't count on a permanant marker, and these marks are much more precise.

 

[DrThunder88]

Marking the blade is a good idea. I have a two-inch wide swath of baldness on my left arm where my pocketknife effortlessly popped off the hair. I used my Lansky 3-stone set plus an extra 1000-grit stone. I also stropped it with white buffing compound, so that may have helped.

 

[Bridges]

If I'm sticking with my coarse, is that going to still leave a burr and if so, how do I get rid of it without going to my finer stones?

Your description has me rethinking the whole burr concept.

If you're satisfied with the edge and only want to remove the burr, and do not want to change stones,very light passes will do it.
Final stropping can be done on the your Blue Jeans (if you're wearing them ). I sometimes strop using copy paper, with the paper flat on my desktop.

Bridges

 

[Nosetotail]

Well, just like the rule that you never cut towards yourself, I tend to keep my pants on while I'm sharpening, that way I'm at least two steps away from accidently being able to... well you know. I think it's been called "Pulling a Bobbit". Although to my knowledge I don't think there is any credible record of someone actually accidently Pulling a Bobbit on themself.

Anyway, what you said about the light passes is what I thought, though I wasn't sure as I'm still having trouble getting that scarey sharp edge that I'm looking for. It is plenty sharp, but this daggum push cutting paper thing has me stumped. I finished with the very light passes, and I mean very very light, then I went on to my extra fine and repeated the process, eliminating the scratches and once again finishing with very light passes, and it still only shaves nominally. I geuss I'm having the same problem as bfr57, though I certainly feel like I am being very careful and quite consistent, but I'm surprised at my results on my ZDP blade.

I even go a step further and start the opposite side with several very light passes so as not to cause any micro chipping when I'm knocking the burr down in the burr raising process, but this doesn't seem to offer any marked improvement.