help with lansky

B

balisonglover5634

Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
81
I have been sharpening using the guided lansky system with extra course on the same side of the knife for quite a while now. but i still can't seem to feel a burr on the other side. am i doing something wrong or could the burr be very hard to tell if its there?
 
Why are you looking for a burr? The angle of your cut will most likely, slightly, be different from the factory edge. You could see the flat edge you create as you approach the edge of the blade. If you are there already then work the other side. Try to make the length of the edge the same on both sides too. I have found that the cheap steel materials leave a burr and the harder steels leave less if any burrs. Look at the edge of the blade in the light. You should not see any reflection if it is sharp. I use the lansky all the time. If it takes a long time to sharpen a blade, it's because you need to reach the edge for the first time. If you use the lansky the next time, it will take a lot less time. Stick with it as it does get boring sometimes.:jerkit: Make sure you use oil too. I will some times switch to the next finer stone just before the edge is 100% sharp, since the next stone will also take off some material as it approaches the sharp edge. Work your way down to the finest stone you have and you will be happy. You could even remove the burr or false edge by going to the next steeper angle with just a few passes of your finest stone. Hope this helps.
 
i have tried the sharpie trick and everything, i know for a fact im working the edge but i have gone all the way down to the fine diamond and it won't cut at all. it more tears... if im lucky
 
Go to a knife shop with it still in the clamp and ask them. It's hard to diagnose over the internet where you're going wrong.
 
You might need a grinder. Or, if you've got STEADY hands, a dremel with a stone. I have the same problem during rebeveling for the first time - It takes forever for a shallow angle to reach the edge. A courser grit is needed.

Also, Instead of moving to the next higher clamp-hole between stones, adjust the rod out a little. Lansky stones are the only ones I've seen that can minutely alter the angle this way. It creates a psuedo-convex edge.

Lansky tutorials here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430124,
http://users.ameritech.net/knives/knives1c.htm.
 
lerner said:
You might need a grinder. Or, if you've got STEADY hands, a dremel with a stone. I have the same problem during rebeveling for the first time - It takes forever for a shallow angle to reach the edge. A courser grit is needed.

Also, Instead of moving to the next higher clamp-hole between stones, adjust the rod out a little. Lansky stones are the only ones I've seen that can minutely alter the angle this way. It creates a psuedo-convex edge.

Lansky tutorials here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430124,
http://users.ameritech.net/knives/knives1c.htm.
Click to expand...


so if i bend the wires to about 190 instead of a straight 180 it will put a better edge on the knife?
 
No, No, No... You unscrew the screw a little, move the rod down some then tighten back up. Pictures in the tutorials show it. The rod would still be in a parallel line with the stone.
The last stone will still leave a wider angle than the coarsest stone, but it's better than moving up 1 hole each time.
 
That's a really good idea with the rod. I guess you would only change the angle by about a 1/10 or degree, if even that. I'll have to lay it out on ACAD and get the exact angle change vs. movement.

You might be adding to much pressure to your stone. You should already be able to cut paper after using the course stone.
 
Mark1967 said:
That's a really good idea with the rod. I guess you would only change the angle by about a 1/10 or degree, if even that. I'll have to lay it out on ACAD and get the exact angle change vs. movement.

You might be adding to much pressure to your stone. You should already be able to cut paper after using the course stone.
Click to expand...

i thought that too but im just gliding the stones across without any pressure other than the stone's weight
 
lerner said:
No, No, No... You unscrew the screw a little, move the rod down some then tighten back up. Pictures in the tutorials show it. The rod would still be in a parallel line with the stone.
The last stone will still leave a wider angle than the coarsest stone, but it's better than moving up 1 hole each time.
Click to expand...

Thank you, i still have one more (maybe stupid) question. why would making an angle wider help with cutting? i always presumed that the smallest angle will cut better
 
Yeah, I do prefer more acute angles. Lots of people on this forum "rebevel" a brand new factory-edge. It just takes so much time to grind off that "shoulder". Until then the coarse stone never touches the cutting edge.

I only mentioned widening the angle as a way to reach the edge sooner... as a compromise. The wider-angled edge would last longer though.

I've been using the Lansky and Gatco systems for quite a while now, and have come to the same conclusion as the "old-timers" on this forum:
The Lansky-like systems are good for making a good-looking, clean, sharp, smooth bevel-contour-line from hilt to tip; after you use a heavy-duty method (power grinder, sander, dremel) for establishing the initial angle;
for touchups, Lansky&cousins are a pain in the arse: use strops, paperwheels, spyderco sharpmaker...

Overall it sounds like your coarse stone hasnt reached the edge yet (look for reflections, burr, sharpie-trick...). Remember if you use the power tools, they can grind where you dont want to grind if your hands arent stable. Practice on a cheapie (or mom's butterknives;)).
 
lerner said:
Yeah, I do prefer more acute angles. Lots of people on this forum "rebevel" a brand new factory-edge. It just takes so much time to grind off that "shoulder". Until then the coarse stone never touches the cutting edge.

I only mentioned widening the angle as a way to reach the edge sooner... as a compromise. The wider-angled edge would last longer though.

I've been using the Lansky and Gatco systems for quite a while now, and have come to the same conclusion as the "old-timers" on this forum:
The Lansky-like systems are good for making a good-looking, clean, sharp, smooth bevel-contour-line from hilt to tip; after you use a heavy-duty method (power grinder, sander, dremel) for establishing the initial angle;
for touchups, Lansky&cousins are a pain in the arse: use strops, paperwheels, spyderco sharpmaker...

Overall it sounds like your coarse stone hasnt reached the edge yet (look for reflections, burr, sharpie-trick...). Remember if you use the power tools, they can grind where you dont want to grind if your hands arent stable. Practice on a cheapie (or mom's butterknives;)).
Click to expand...

how much are the power tools? im only 16 so it might be hard to get them
 
I have to say that I have resurrected my Lansky! I am now using masking tape to hold the knife in place, so far so good. Next I bought new hex screws so the dig burn thumb screws do not get in the way giving me more travel across the stones, and last......I bought some Bar Keepers Friend (in a cylinder same as comet) and this stuff will eat away the metal left on the stones! It is cutting through and making an edge just great, I am back to shaving sharp. The Bar keeper' Friend was found at Ralphs for me. I looked in the cleaning aisle and it was merchandised next to the comet or other abrasive kitchen cleaners. I made a paste with the powder and brushed it onto the stone surface and waited about 15 min, then scrubbed with a stiff bristle brush all metal is gone!!!! Stones cut like new. You all have to get some. You can smell the oxalic acid working, sort of sour smelling, but not too powerful for indoor. Just had to rave about this product....I know there are other friends of BKF.
 
Um... I wouldn't start with that extra course stone with the Lansky. Mine was 80 grit or something and did absolutely nothing other then scratch up the knife.

Start with medium or course. Better yet, invest in the Diamond stone set. Or a Spyderco Sharpmaker. :D

There are plenty of people here that would be more then happy to sharpen your knife for a nominal fee. After that, maintaining with the Lansky is fine. A bit cumbersome, but fine.
 
Josh K said:
Um... I wouldn't start with that extra course stone with the Lansky. Mine was 80 grit or something and did absolutely nothing other then scratch up the knife.

Start with medium or course. Better yet, invest in the Diamond stone set. Or a Spyderco Sharpmaker. :D

There are plenty of people here that would be more then happy to sharpen your knife for a nominal fee. After that, maintaining with the Lansky is fine. A bit cumbersome, but fine.
Click to expand...

I use the extra coarse only when I am reprofiling a new acquisition. As I step down in stones, all scratches go away and I finish with a strop, so edges are as pretty as the blade. My obsessive compulsive behavior would have it no other way:D. Since I have invested in the Lansky, I am stuck with it for now, but have fun sharpening none the less. My main blog was about how great the Barkeeper's Friend is for cleaning off metal and bringing the stones back to new condition. I may be getting the paper wheels within a month or two to speed things up a bit. Looking into which grinding motor to get (shopping around).
 
Josh K said:
Um... I wouldn't start with that extra course stone with the Lansky. Mine was 80 grit or something and did absolutely nothing other then scratch up the knife.

Start with medium or course. Better yet, invest in the Diamond stone set. Or a Spyderco Sharpmaker. :D

There are plenty of people here that would be more then happy to sharpen your knife for a nominal fee. After that, maintaining with the Lansky is fine. A bit cumbersome, but fine.
Click to expand...

could you recommend some people for me to email for a possible thing like that?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top