Help With Leather Handle Please

W

War Pup

Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
4
Hi All,

We have enjoyed reading through many threads on this site and new to the whole knife collecting world. When my grandfather died we found several knives from WWII in a storage space, some belonged to him, and others to my Uncles. Sadly, they are all dead now. My father was USMC, my uncles were Army. We have identified some of these through books. One is a Mark 2 made by Camillus and is marked on the guard. It has my father's name etched on the leather sheath, which is in pretty fair shape.

Our question is this. The leather on the handle is just slightly loose. I spoke with someone who claimed to know about these things, and he said just "soak" the handle in oil and it will tighten because it dried over the years.

Of course I am concerned with doing that, even if it makes sense, but I don't wish to alter the knife or hurt it in any manner.

Should I use a non-petroleum oil on this, and if so, what and how should that be done?

Any information would be helpful.

Thank you.

* * *

We also have blades we've identified as M-3, but that was easy because it is on the blade itself.

Thanks for any advice you could give. Best wishes to all.
 
how about filling out your profile so we know a little more about you. is the leather dryrotted? if so there might not be much hope. you dont want to soak it in oil. i have repaired a few camillus knives with stacked leather washers as well as replacing all the washers. its time consuming but well worth it when the knife's finished.
 
If the leather washers were "New" I have heard to dab them with a wet cloth and then seal them with a leather protectorant like Sno-Seal. For Old washers, its a different story, as the poster above stated, they could be rotted and as such they may need to just be replaced. Try the Maintenance subforum for some ideas.

The M3 knives were made by Camillus and others for the Army to be issued to troops who did not receive a bayonet. The pattern of blade is similar to the M4 bayonet issued with the M1 Carbine. They were first issued to paratroopers. They should be double edged, with the top edge going I think halfway down the knife blade. Blade should be roughly 6inches.
 
Welcome to Bladeforums!

Let’s see if we can find the right forum …
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I suggest looking into Lexol products...they have a conditioner and cleaners that are designed for leather.
 
I have an old Pal/RH bowie type knife from WWII. It was not pretty. I sent it to a fellow forum/knifemaker member, who reground the blade, removed the pommel and reglued each leather washer. I could never of done the job that this man did. I am very proud of this knife. I'll try to post some pics next week.
 
Thanks to all for reading my note, sorry to post in the wrong section.

The Mark 2 is in very good shape for WWII vintage. The leather has no rot but is just a tad loose in the stack. Not being an expert at all in knives, it makes sense the leather washers have just shrunk with age and I live in Arizona where it is dry.

The blade still has about 80% of the blue remaining, and was stored apart from the sheath.

It is one of several that my father had and I'm looking for the proper way to expand the dry leather again without screwing up.

The leather washers are in GREAT SHAPE.

I was told by a so-called "expert" to just soak the whole handle in "Neatsfoot oil" but I'm not comfortable with soaking anything but my tired feet. I love knives in general but don't know much--so I'm enjoying this site.

* * *

I will post some personal background. As a mechanic I deal too much with that wonderful new metal, also known as plastic.
 
If you want to use them, treating the leather will be necessary. Otherwise, like you said, don't do anything to make things worse.

It's like looking at a great old car that was restored but why is that electronic potted voltage regulator screwed to the fender? Obviously points off for unauthentic, and a buyer would definitely lowball his offer for that. Same with knife collectors - authentic is ok, cleaned, polished, reground, or otherwise, it's just a used knife. Even what little we tolerate is anathema to furniture collectors - they want the original 200 year old varnish, or it's 1/2 price or less.

So, what do you plan to do - use, display, or sell?
 
Stickman said:
I suggest looking into Lexol products...they have a conditioner and cleaners that are designed for leather.
Click to expand...

I have used "Lexol" repeatedly over these last many years, and it will probably do more for your old dry leather than any thing else you could try. DO NOT put water on the leather. I once saw "Lexol" used to refurbish an old Civil War saddle-bag that was dry & almost crispy. It brought that leather back to flexible & somewhat supple. As long as your leather is not rotten, it won't hurt a thing. Just soak the leather good & let it absorb awhile, then wipe excess. If the leather is rotted, the only "fix" is to replace it.
P.S.- "Lexol" is superior to "Neatsfoot oil". It won't harm your leather @ all. Can be found at a "Tandy" store (if you still have one near), or anyplace that handles quality leather goods & supplies. (i.e-someplace that sells saddles, tack, etc.)
 
i use lexol conditioner and it is good stuff. give it a try if the leather is still in good shape.
i once thought neatsfoot oil was good stuff until someone set me straight on it. now i use lexol. if the leather is too dry lexol wont do it any good.
 
I would rather have something that is ORIGINAL and well maintained, then something tampered with--so I laughed at the regulator nailed to the fender. In the car game I have seen KINKS that come that close. For the 50s and 60s classics--so many are merely frames with aftermarket body kits. I can't even count the Tempests I've seen transformed into GTOs, then sold at auction, which I hate.

* * *

This particular knife I plan on keeping around because I like it and have pictures of my father with it at Guadalcanal. I'm guessing that's the reason he parked the thing in storage, though he had many other knives of various kinds and preferred blades to firearms. He had been with the Airborne Ranger program, issued a Reising Sub gun, which he hated. He replaced that with a Thompson and traded the Reising with a Corpsman for several knives--just because he liked knives and because why not.

He kept them all. I also have his Marine NCO Dress Sword and Officer's Mameluke.

Like him, I just enjoy having them--though I'm NOT that knowledgeable. In time I think I will donate some to the new Marine Museum, as my father was fairly well known, along with the special units he served with.

* * *

I do know it won't take much to tighten the washers on this.

I might try the Lexol. I think our car interior expert used that brand for restoration of leather seats, one Benz and a Jag. This was for preservation and NOT restoration.

Thanks again!
 
Best of luck in whichever path you choose. Sounds like you pretty much know all about what you're doing anyway.
 
Oldfogey,

Thank you for your kind remark--sounds like I know why I'm doing--hilarious!!! You have clearly never seen me TRY to sharpen a knife, and for whatever reason it seems the blade always wins, so that's my next stop on this site, which I plan to support in my own meager way. I am NOT going to sharpen any of these WWI or WWII blades--I will leave them as they were left.

Late last night I managed to identify a blade from the 1850s, which amazed me.

* * *

I very much appreciate your remark about thanking our veterans for our freedom. It is a curious world in which any of us would have to be reminded--but unfortunately--it is true.
 
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