Help with mirror polish on nickel silver bolsters

[lithicus]

I noticed one of my favorite knives had some blade play. I've been carrying this stockman almost every day since March of this year. Given I had fixed blade play on an experimental work knife in the past, I felt more confident in my ability to repair this. I put it in a vise to tighten it up, peened the pin, sanded it down flush, and attempted to polish it. The repair was successful, but given this is my favorite knife I'd like to get something closer to the finish that was on the bolsters before I started.

I hand sanded the bolsters with 2000 grit sandpaper and some mineral oil, then polished with a paper towel and some brasso.
Is it possible to get a true mirror finish like it originally had, by hand? Do I just need to go at it more with some brasso? Buy a different polishing compound?
I do have a strop with white and green compound. Would I get a better mirror finish using that?

And, while the pin is "fingernail flush" it is still visible. Why is this? Does this mean I didn't peen the pin well enough?

Thanks everyone!!


Original finish:

My hand finish:

Original finish on left, my finish on right:

My finish on left, original finish on right:

 

[UncleBoots]

I do think you need something as an intermediate step. Jumping straight from 2000 grit scratches to a fine polish is probably too big a jump. Mirror polishes are generally achieved by smaller steps than that.

I know what I'd try next in your position -- I have these wonderful 3M Trizact sandpaper on foam circles, in 3000 and 8000 grit. I got them because I thought they might work better than all the Internet remedies for yellowed headlights, and they did. The 3000 took the yellow right off, and the 8000 made the headlights look new again.

I've since used them for similar tasks to yours, polishing after 2K sandpaper. Even the 3000 is a worthwhile step, because sandpaper on foam seems to make shallower scratches, so it would set you up nicely for whatever is next.

 

[lithicus]

I definitely appreciate your advice! I might have to pick some of that stuff up as I didn't have any at the house. And, as you've pointed out, I'm sure it comes in handy for lots of things!

I don't know why, but I didn't think about using my sharpening strop until I wrote the original post. Figuring I had nothing to lose and I couldn't make it much worse (or I could start over if I did), I gave the white compound side of my strop a try. It worked like a charm!! I'm sure it's not perfect, but it's close enough to the original finish that I feel comfortable doing the rest of the bolsters as I squeezed them all in the vise and peened both pins.

 

[lithicus]

I guess the only remaining question I have is why the pin is still visible even though it feels fingernail flush.

I don't want to sand too much as I did that on my experimental work knife and it changed the shape of the bolster. And, the pin was still visible even after removing all of that material. A visible pin isn't a huge deal to me, but if I could learn what I'm doing wrong it would improve work I do in the future.

I can only guess that the reason the pin is visible on this knife and the barlow I bought to experiment with is because I didn't peen the pin well? Meaning, I didn't expand the pin enough to fill in the gap with the bolster completely?? This question might be more appropriate for a new post.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

The pins are likely harder than the bolster material. So, when sanding or polishing them by hand, they'll abrade at a slower rate than the bolsters, which eventually leaves the end of the pin somewhat proud of the bolster surface. If you back your sandpaper with something firm or hard, like a small pocket sharpening stone, a wood block, or a hard rubber eraser, that can help to bring the pin ends back to flush with the bolster. Use light pressure for sanding, so the paper and its backing won't compress while sanding.

And, just now seeing your update about the white compound --> GOOD CALL. I was getting ready to suggest that, as I've liked white rouge (aluminum oxide) for such uses.

 

[lithicus]

The pins are likely harder than the bolster material. So, when sanding or polishing them by hand, they'll abrade at a slower rate than the bolsters, which eventually leaves the end of the pin somewhat proud of the bolster surface. If you back your sandpaper with something firm or hard, like a small pocket sharpening stone, a wood block, or a hard rubber eraser, that can help to bring the pin ends back to flush with the bolster. Use light pressure for sanding, so the paper and its backing won't compress while sanding.

And, just now seeing your update about the white compound --> GOOD CALL. I was getting ready to suggest that, as I've liked white rouge (aluminum oxide) for such uses.

That is incredibly helpful information! I did have the sandpaper on a desk for backing, but never considered that the pin would abrade more slowly than the bolster. In truth, having hidden pins isn't a big deal to me. Just looks nicer. But, I'll take your advice into consideration when doing this kind of work in the future. One day, I'll get those pins super nice and flush and you won't be able to see them at all!!

And thanks for confirming the white compound idea. It did seem to work like a charm and the knife is good as new. Back in the pocket it goes!

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

That is incredibly helpful information! I did have the sandpaper on a desk for backing, but never considered that the pin would abrade more slowly than the bolster. In truth, having hidden pins isn't a big deal to me. Just looks nicer. But, I'll take your advice into consideration when doing this kind of work in the future. One day, I'll get those pins super nice and flush and you won't be able to see them at all!!

And thanks for confirming the white compound idea. It did seem to work like a charm and the knife is good as new. Back in the pocket it goes!

I sometimes like the visibility of the pins on the bolsters, especially in older knives. It adds a certain character to a knife with some history of use behind it. Old knives that get scuffed up and then cleaned & polished many times throughout their life will eventually show more of it. I have an old Buck 307 stockman, made by Camillus, with pins that are just a little bit proud. I think they're steel pins, much harder than the nickel bolsters. I've sometimes thought about flushing them up, but don't have the heart to do it.

 

[lithicus]

I sometimes like the visibility of the pins on the bolsters, especially in older knives. It adds a certain character to a knife with some history of use behind it. Old knives that get scuffed up and then cleaned & polished many times throughout their life will eventually show more of it. I have an old Buck 307 stockman, made by Camillus, with pins that are just a little bit proud. I think they're steel pins, much harder than the nickel bolsters. I've sometimes thought about flushing them up, but don't have the heart to do it.

That is a beautiful knife and I don't blame you for keeping it the way it is! The Case stockman I posted above is one I think I will carry for a long time. And by the time I'm done with it, it will certainly have a story or two to tell!! Thanks again for all of your help!