Help with modifying a steeling rod.

V

vesik

Joined
Jan 12, 2001
Messages
49
Alas,

I am merely a poor student. I've come across a steel from one of those cutlery sets, but the finish has extremely deep grooves. Do you guys think it's possible for me to sand it down with 600 grit sandpaper and use it as a proper steel?
 
That's just too much hard work...

Cut down on booze and cigarettes for a week and you might just be able to buy a brand spanking new rod...or maybe even a Sharpmaker...
 
Waste of time. If the steel is too coarse for your preference just use less pressure-or use the bottom of an aluminum pot or the fender wells of your car or anything that will straighten a bent edge. What steels are made of and how they are made is really immaterial. It is that they are used and how they are used that matters. Take care.
 
If the steel comes from a cheap cutlery set the ridges may be too rough to use even with light pressure. I have purchased very good smooth steels from "antique malls". Often you find antique malls or antique flea markets that sell used items that are not all that old. Sharpening steels often sell pretty cheap. The best steel I own only cost me $5.00 from an antique mall outside Cheyenne Wyoming.

If you can find a surplus metal dealer all you really need is a piece of 1/2-inch diameter drill rod or smooth cold rolled steel. Some duct tape would make a very practical handle.
 
Okay an old Bushmans trick. Paint the steel with iodine and hang it up for a couple of weeks then using wet and dry smooth it down - you will get a nice pitted effect but not too pitted. Old butchers I have spoken to say bury the steel (not the handle) in the garden for a couple of months then smooth it down - today they buy a smooth steel.
 
Cool! I didn't realize that what the steel was made of was immaterial, nor did I think of buying a steel second-hand. Hehehehehe. I think I'll give the pot a try though.

Thanks everyone!
 
I've got an old "Case xx" steel that was as you describe. I took me about 5 minutes to smooth it out using a 15 micron finishing belt on my 1x30 belt grinder. If you have to do it by hand, try starting with 220 or 320 grit wet-or-dry and finish with the 600. My own observation has been that the cheap steels aren't as hard as you might expect, and you've nothing to lose by trying -- the steel you have is not much use in it's current condition, so nothing's lost if you goof it up while trying to smooth it. Just my 2 cents...

Edited to add:

Don't worry if it has a few random grooves in it when you're done -- as long as it feels smooth.

Shalom,
Mark
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top