Help with reprofiling a Condor Bushlore

T

Timblade

Joined
May 31, 2006
Messages
82
Hello,

Can anyone suggest a knifesmith who can assist in putting a Scandi edge on my Bushlore? If anyone is local to the St. Louis area, that would be great too. Thanks for any suggestions.

By the way, I wasn't sure if this is where this post should go, so Mods, feel free to move if necessary.

-Tim
 
Why not just do it yourself? Then you know it will be done right and it will be your own work.
 
I don't have a belt dander and don't know how to use one. Can adequate reprofiling be done with stones or sandpaper? I tried sharpening with sandpaper (3 grits) over a mouse pad, but got no where with the convex. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
 
Got a picture of your Bushlore? I would need to know what generation of production it is to make a suggestion.
 
I tried to rebevel a Bushlore on very course waterstones
Dished the stones but not the knife
It is not a good enough knife to invest any money into it

Buy a Condor Woodlore that is a full scandi grind instead of the cost of sending it to be reground
 
Well, the newest generation of them have the same grind as the Woodlore does--a slightly hollow saber grind like a Mora. That makes them a lot easier than the old ones to touch up. That's why I was curious as to which generation it was. :)
 
I would think with the 1075 steel in that knife, you could flatten it into a Scandi on a hardware store silicon carbide stone and then maybe finish it off with sandpaper (but not over a mousepad). If you wanted to go way up the face there's going to be some work involved but still doable. With that steel you might even get a file to bite, and would make fairly short work of it clamped to a workbench (and then finish it off with sandpaper, but not over a mousepad).

Does anyone know what the RC is on the Bushlore and how it compares to machetes made from the same steel?
 
Benyomin

a slightly hollow saber grind like a Mora?
Please explain
I though Mora were scandi grinds...............
 
It took too much time and effort to try and flatten the primary bevel to the apex line for a zero scandi

When I put it on my DMT Aligner and just worked on the secondary bevel, it came up very sharp and a good working edge
A beater
 
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