Help with Rusted Double Bit Axe

[billoo13]

I picked up an old rusted to death double bit axe head and decided to use it as my first cleaning project.

now I am stuck on what to do next with it. I have soaked it for around 48 hours and every 12 hours i scrubbed it down with a steel wire brush.

I'm not sure if it is salvageable or if it is just junk. Please let me know what I should do now with this thing and what is that black part on the edges.

Here are some pics of the sides and a glimpse inside the eye.

 

[willseeyalater]

That is pretty rough, was it buried somewhere or did an axe hater own it? You would need to grind it way down to make it look like anything but that would leave you with little to work with. Why not sharpen it up as is, give it a handle and use it for rough jobs? With pitting that extensive it is going to keep grabbing wood fibers so it will need some care after it does some work. It could be you root chopping tool.

 

[G-pig]

It would probably make a serviceable splitter if you polished the cheeks up a little. It will probably never be pretty but I bet it could be functional.

 

[BobSig]

Give it some new edges and leave it as is. Is pretty cool looking, it is a super patina finish

 

[Square_peg]

..... and what is that black part on the edges.

The dark area is the portion of the axe that got quenched during heat treat. That's the hardened part of the bit. The good news is that it looks like you've got plenty of good hardened steel left in that thing.

What to do with it next depends on what equipment you have and how nice you want to make it. That thing is beefy with thick eye walls. There's enough metal there that you could do a full polish if you wanted to spend the time.

Here are images of a double bit in similar condition which I semi-restored last month. It took several hours of work to get it back to that condition.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/940479-Double-bit-geometry?p=10754105#post10754105

 

[sasquatch1]

maybe hit the last bit of it to kill that rust with a wire wheel. the craftsman axe i restored has worse rust but not as bad pitting and came out good with the wire wheel

 

[billoo13]

The dark area is the portion of the axe that got quenched during heat treat. That's the hardened part of the bit. The good news is that it looks like you've got plenty of good hardened steel left in that thing.

What to do with it next depends on what equipment you have and how nice you want to make it. That thing is beefy with thick eye walls. There's enough metal there that you could do a full polish if you wanted to spend the time.

Here are images of a double bit in similar condition which I semi-restored last month. It took several hours of work to get it back to that condition.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/940479-Double-bit-geometry?p=10754105#post10754105

I would love to try to clean it up and make it at least decent looking and usable like what you did with your double bit. What would you recommend I do to it? also could you send me an email if you don't mind with some basic instructions on what to do and what I need to do it. Sorry if this is too much of a pain.

also I forgot to mention, the table I got this from was full of a bunch of rusted tools and the head was 1 dollar. also same table I got the Lamb Splitter from. The Lamb Splitter is posted in the Cleaver Thread.

 

[Square_peg]

I'd start with a dust mask, ear plugs and a 4-1/2" angle grinder. First I'd give it the wire cup treatment to get the last of that rust off. Then if I wanted to remove some of the pitting I'd take the wire cup off the angle grinder and switch to flap discs, 40 grit, 80 grit, then 120 grit. I would totally STAY AWAY from the edge with the flap discs. It's way too easy to ruin your temper that way. Once I got it cleaned up I'd re-profile the edge with a file and hone it with a stone. I used a buffing wheel with some tripoli compound on mine to give it a shine.

If you don't have the power tools and don't feel like dropping a couple hundred on them then you're best off doing as Willseeyalater suggested, just sharpen it with file and stone and re-hang it. What does the edge profile look like? Show us the edges from the same view as your 3rd photo in your original post.

 

[Double Ott]

I'd start with a dust mask, ear plugs and a 4-1/2" angle grinder. First I'd give it the wire cup treatment to get the last of that rust off. Then if I wanted to remove some of the pitting I'd take the wire cup off the angle grinder and switch to flap discs, 40 grit, 80 grit, then 120 grit. I would totally STAY AWAY from the edge with the flap discs. It's way too easy to ruin your temper that way. Once I got it cleaned up I'd re-profile the edge with a file and hone it with a stone. I used a buffing wheel with some tripoli compound on mine to give it a shine.

If you don't have the power tools and don't feel like dropping a couple hundred on them then you're best off doing as Willseeyalater suggested, just sharpen it with file and stone and re-hang it. What does the edge profile look like? Show us the edges from the same view as your 3rd photo in your original post.

I think Square Peg has given you some good advise. You'll also have to square up the bits, reprofile them to remove the rounded shape of them and remove the pitting.
You'll sure end up putting lots of work into it and you'll still end up with a beater You don't have much invested so far...so give it a shot.

Double Ott

 

[Square_peg]

You'll also have to square up the bits, reprofile them to remove the rounded shape of them and remove the pitting.

I've done that with some axes like the one I linked to earlier. But I would be cautious about changing the geometry of this axe very much. It has already lost a lot of bit.

Look at the temper lines. There on 2 lines on each bit. I'm guessing the lines closest to the bits are from the 1st dip in the quench tank, producing the hardest portion of the bit. Note that the 1st temper line already runs out at the left toe (upper left corner). On the right side there's still about 1/4"-3/8" of the first temper remaining at the toe.

Of course squaring up would mean removing material from the center of the bit rather than the heels and toes. Done sparingly there would still be some of the 1st quench remaining on the edge.

 

[Square_peg]

I'd start with a dust mask, ear plugs and a 4-1/2" angle grinder. First I'd give it the wire cup treatment to get the last of that rust off.

I forgot the most important part - safety glasses or goggles. Wire wheels throw wires. If you're wearing only safety glasses then make sure they fit tight against the cheeks under the eyes.

 

[billoo13]

Sorry to say this but I will not be able to get the edge profile pics until monday. I have been having a crazy work schedule and today I hit a bunch of estate sales.

 

[cckw]

I'm guessing this head has inlaid bits. rather then 2 temper lines it is the line of the good steel vs wrought iron and the temper line. a photo of the top at this areas will probably answer that. When you get done it will be a solid piece. I have a few that are that pitted that I am going to redo.

If this one were mine I wouldn't square up the edges much. Too much bit already gone. I would thin it somewhat at the front 1.5" and sharpen it so-so sharp and use it as a dirty work axe. Meaning when it might hit the ground, metal, stones, etc. You'll find nicer heads, I would use this so the nicer ones stay nice only cutting clean wood.

 

[Square_peg]

.....a photo of the top at this areas will probably answer that.

That's a great idea. Because you can get the double lines wither way. Even the best forge welds will usually leave a visible seam. The best place to see it is on the top or bottom of the axe.