Help with Sharpmaker

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wade

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Sep 22, 2005
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I am going to buy a new sharpening tool but not sure which to get. I am considering a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Anyone have one? How well do they work? Should I go with something else? Any info would be helpful. Thanks
Wade
 
wade said:
I am going to buy a new sharpening tool but not sure which to get. I am considering a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Anyone have one? How well do they work? Should I go with something else? Any info would be helpful. Thanks
Wade
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I do. There may be couple other folks around here with one.

Seriously try a search - plenty of reading
 
Wade, let me reply from the standpoint of someone who was in your exact place yesterday at this time. About two hours ago the mailman delivered my Sharpmaker, I popped in the video, set up the sharpener, grabbed my woefully dull Buck 313 Muskrat and followed the instructional video. When I was done I was able to shave my arm with a scary sharp blade, actually both of the blades.

To me this is sharpening for dummies of which I am a member as I have never been able to sharpen anything unless I used an electric sharpener. This is one of those cases where if I can do it I would guess that anyone could. I highly recommend it but keep in mind I have only owned it for two hours and have sharpened only one knife. Good luck!
 
I can't sharpen a knife, really, I can't. But with a sharpmaker I can make knives sharp. Don't know if its "scary" sharp, but its good working edge sharp. Its easy to use. The instructions are really good. Its safe. Its affordable. Serrated knives can be easily sharpened as well as plain edge.

I have read on here its not great for "reprofiling"; there are 30* and 40* angles. If your knife isn't already close you that, you may have a job in front of you. You have to be careful not to blunt the tip, especially with the corners. I have used the sharpmaker to good effect on blades up to the size of a large chef's knife\USMC Ka-Bar size. I don't think it would work as well on bigger blades (but if you mount the sharpmaker to a bench, so you could use both hands on the knife, it probably would work).

Overall, what a great set up for pocket knives, hunting knives and kitchen knives!
 
I agree. The sharpmaker is an excellent choice. I purchased mine two months ago having no knowledge of sharpening a knife whatsoever. I found that the trick is to never let your knife get dull. A few passes on the sharpmaker once a week and I am good to go.
 
Depending on your budge I'll vote (1) Sharpmaker for $40-50 or (2) EdgePro Apex for $200.
 
The Sharpmaker is really easy to use and works very well, but if you need to do S30V or D2 blades that are somewhat beefy, you'll have to buy the diamond triangle stones (or use about 1000 strokes).

Also, beware that you will blunt your blade point if you don't stop before the point leaves the stone. I wrote Spyderco about this and their response was to always keep the knife on the stone, NEVER pull it all the way through full stroke.
 
I have one, but I'm so far unimpressed. While I'm able to keep a very nice edge on my knives immediately after use, I can't bring a blade of decent steel back to life to save my very soul. For example, I bought a very well used Chris Reeves fixed blade for a song. It was as dull as a butterknife. It's still as dull as a butterknife.

Mine is more of a "Sharpkeeper" than a "Sharpmaker".
 
farmboy, you'd probably be best off sending it in to CRK for resharpening, after which you could keep the new edge sharp more easily.

I have found that some dull knives are easier to restore than others, but the Sharpmaker was designed more for maintenance than for reprofiling. With the addition of the diamond rods, it will do reprofiling as well, but they are expensive.

If you are working on plain edge, non-recurved blades, you'd do better with a small DMT diamond benchstone for the hard jobs, or you could get domething like their Double Sided Diafold® Diamond Whetstone™ Sharpener - Fine 600 / Coarse 325 Grits, which I've had a lot of success with.
 
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The sharpmaker is easy to use and efficient. True it's not meant for reprofiling but how often do you have to do that.
Ok, I know that some people here reprofile every new knife they aquire but most people don't. If you maintain a sharp edge the need to reprofile will generally not arise.
And even if you eventually use other stones to reprofile I bet you will be coming back to the Sharpmaker for maintaining that edge.
The diamond rods are quite good and up to minor reprofiling.
 
Great for finish sharpening and touch-ups. Not really suited to reprofiling or repairing significant edge damage unless you invest in the diamond sleeves ... but then, you might feel limited by the Sharpmaker's angle choices. Personally I use ordinary stones for anything more than finish sharpening or touch-ups.
 
edamhcneb said:
The Sharpmaker is really easy to use and works very well, but if you need to do S30V or D2 blades that are somewhat beefy, you'll have to buy the diamond triangle stones (or use about 1000 strokes).

Also, beware that you will blunt your blade point if you don't stop before the point leaves the stone.
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Agreed. I had an experience, while trying to sharpen common tableware knife (unknown chinese steel, pristine blunt) I've somewhat FLATTENED those rounded sharpmaker's edges. Get the diamond stones for reprofiling!
I've blunted tips of my knives too. Sharpmaker is not dumb-proof ))
 
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