Help with sticking Para 3 LW

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Jan 20, 2022
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So I just received a Para 3 lightweight, and the pivots seemed quite tight so I tightened them by a few millimeters. The blade was all of a sudden very very tight and would not drop shut or flick open. I then went to loosen the pivot screws but that did not help, so I went ahead and adjusted some of the body screws. It seems that whatever I do, whenever I get to the point of adjusting the pivot screws it becomes extremely rigid. In order for it to drop shut the pivot screws need to be poking out of the handle scales which is not good. Any ideas as to what this could be? Do I just have a weird model? I know the LW isn't as smooth as some larger heavier knives but this seems very odd to me.
 
Pop a scale off of one side, look around for something out of place, and give it a drink of lube.
I bet the liner lock is hanging up on something.
 
(Working from memory here...)
The Para 3 literally has a liner lock on the back side of the knife. Look closely at those parts, and see if something there is rubbing on the blade as it tries to move.
 
So I just received a Para 3 lightweight, and the pivots seemed quite tight so I tightened them by a few millimeters
Did I read this right? The “pivotS” were tight and you tightened them more ?
Id just disassemble the knife, would clean it and put it back together. It’s not hard.
‘The back lock is very nice on Spydercos IMO, I can’t see how it’ll give you such issue unless there is something mechanical blocking the blade ?
 
This thread is confusing.

The Para 3 has a compression lock.

The screws for the scales as well as the pivot will affect the action.

Loosen up ALL the screws a bit.

Start by adjusting the pivot screw to barely snug. Then tighten the body screws uniformly, moving from screw to screw until tight. Then try to snug the pivot screw until you get to the desired action.

To be completely honest, I have never had much luck with any of my PM2 models in making the blade drop shut without blade play.
 
Last edited:
This thread is confusing.

The Para 3 has a compression lock.

The screws for the scales as well as the pivot will affect the action.

Loosen up ALL the screws a bit.

Start by adjusting the pivot screw to barely snug. Then tighten the body screws uniformly, moving from screw to screw until right. Then try to snug the pivot screw until you get to the desired action.

To be completely honest, I have never had much luck with any of my PM2 models in making the blade drop shut without blade play.
Sorry for the confusion. I did not take into account that the other screws would affect the lock for some reason. I'll give that a try.
 
Sorry for the confusion. I did not take into account that the other screws would affect the lock for some reason. I'll give that a try.
No need to apologize. I'm just seeing liner lock, back lock, tightening screws to loosen actions, etc. lol.


I hope you get it sorted out.
 
The above mentioned methods are just so yesterday ! :rolleyes:

The cutting edge , post-modern way is to use social media extortion to get ...whatever you want . :p:thumbsup::thumbsup:

#1. Get raging drunk .
#2. Clamp misbehaving knife in a vise and beat it open , closed , and sideways (just for good measure ).
#3. Stop when knife fractures thru the pivot hole and flies apart . And /or you simply lose consciousness .
#4. Contact maker with your threats of exposure of their defective product and your demands for restitution .
#5. Flame maker on social media until something wonderful happens . ;)
 
h
The above mentioned methods are just so yesterday ! :rolleyes:

The cutting edge , post-modern way is to use social media extortion to get ...whatever you want . :p:thumbsup::thumbsup:

#1. Get raging drunk .
#2. Clamp misbehaving knife in a vise and beat it open , closed , and sideways (just for good measure ).
#3. Stop when knife fractures thru the pivot hole and flies apart . And /or you simply lose consciousness .
#4. Contact maker with your threats of exposure of their defective product and your demands for restitution .
#5. Flame maker on social media until something wonderful happens . ;)
Honestly why I am I laughing so hard at this. This has to be the best advice yet
 
Take it apart and reassemble. I would not be surprised if you can’t get it centered, but you should be able to get it smoothed out. The LW has only one washer, I think, so keep that in mind. If the washer is bent, that’s a problem. Clean and add a little KPL or similar when you reassemble.

Also, when you reassemble, the body screws should be lightly snug not tight. Fully tighten the pivot, then back off it in increments. I would start by backing out the show side pivot only, before deciding if you want to try going back and forth. Once you have the desired smoothness, you can tighten up the body screws.

Not all Para 3s are the same. Some are just smoother/looser than others, even within the same model. Good luck!
 
Mine was a bit stiff at first, but I disassembled and fiddled with it. I discovered that the stop pin screw tightness has a lot to do with the action on these knives. Eric even says in his disassembly video not to crank that one down too hard, he recommends just snug, so snug w/ threadlocker worked for me.

I helped it along by flattening and polishing the plate and washer, mine slow rolls open and closed under its own weight with the compression lock disengaged, absolutely ZERO play. The flattening and polishing even moved it a hair closer to center. I don't recommend tinkering on the pivot plate unless you know what you are doing, it will definitely void your warranty.
 
I had a coated XHP shaman that was like that. Is the LW version running on one washers? Lol

I test all C-lock spyderco knives with the spydieflick. If I can spydieflick it with a bit of effort, then its fine. If the knife is too loose or tight, you can feel it right away.

That shaman I didnt adjust at all, it self-wore in over time and is now pretty smooth (not drop shut, but close enough that I dont care); sometimes it just takes time, lubrication, and use.

Good luck!
 
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