Help with wiring homebuilt knife grinder.

W

W.David Brierley

Joined
Dec 28, 2005
Messages
6
http://members.shaw.ca/brierleyforge/baldormotor.jpg

I bought the above motor for my home built grinder which I am going to wire with 220. I have one of those industrial size start / stop switches that I want to affix to the grinder frame.

I superimposed a pic of the switch onto the pic of the motor. can someone give me an idea how to wire that.

The faster I finish this thing the faster I can meke my knives. Thanks to anyone who can give advise.
 
Are those switches just momentary switches? When I built mine I grabbed a similar switch and i's actually a set of momentary switches to signal to a control to start/stop. If that's the case the switch by itself won't do you much good with just a motor.

-d
 
I think Deker is right. Those push buttons look like they control a magnetic contactor which then controls the motor.
If you just want to turn the motor on/off then get a double pole switch from your electricial supplier. If you also want to reverse the motor then you need to either buy a drum switch for that purpose or (less expensive) also buy a four way switch and pull out and switch the leads on the motor that say "to reverse this motor swap these leads".
Pat McGroder
 
I'm pretty sure that's a momntary switch too. Of course the easiest way to know for sure is to press the buttons. If you push 'on' and it just springs back up, (the same with 'off') then that's what you have and you need a non-momentary type switch. The thing has to make a connection and hold it. If you buy a new one, it will probably come with a basic schematic. You can find some nice ones on e-bay sometimes. A nice, two-button square-D motor switch cost me about $50 the last time I bought a new one (I needed it in a hurry). I buy similar switches for $15-$20 whenever they come up just to have around for the next machine.
 
I had a stop/start switch like that on a GE motor that come on one of my Burr King grinders. You can tell if it'll work by pusing one of the buttons in. If it clicks loudly as you push it in, then it's probably OK, if it just springs back out, it's a momentary switch(get all the latest technical jargon here:rolleyes:;)).

Use the high voltage diagram, of course. Beyond that, I'm screwed. I've never seen a motor whose wiring and color coding matches the description of it's own plate, let alone anything else.

If you have the slightest doubts, take it to a motor shop and they'll have you running in a short time. It's easy for them.

I hooked a motor up on a bandsaw with rudimentary instructions, from Harbor Freight once, and it was lights out when I turned it on. let all the smoke out of it real quick. They did replace it though, with slightly better instructions that time.

Be careful!! And, good luck!
 
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