Help With WW2 PAL Handle Repair

Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
5
Greetings from a new member! Knife restoration is a new area for me. I know enough to "proceed with caution" on these sorts of projects, so I thought it was time to get some great advice. I just acquired a nice but not minty PAL-built RH34 with a stacked leather grip and a turned, hardwood pommel topped by an oval steel plate. I suspect PAL replaced aluminum pommels with wood in response to strategic materials restrictions. I figure this is a WW2 fighting knife, neglected but not abused over the last 75 years. All the original components are still present and intact.

There is some looseness in the stacked handle. On my Remington UMC RH34 I was able to fix the same problem by making a spanner-type screwdriver and tightening the recessed brass nut on the end of the threaded tang, but in this instance, I can't tell if the tang and the oval cap on the wood pommel are threaded, or if the cap was simply hammered down onto the pommel and the end of the tang, which shows in the center of the steel cap and was probably then filed flush. I tried to gently unscrew the plate and got nowhere; the little bit of rotational flexing this caused simply loosened up a few more leather washers so that they now "float" free on the tang rather than being stuck to their neighbors. I have backed off on this approach, not wanting to cause damage.

The steel finger guard also has some "play" in it, and by compressing all washers, I can create a gap of about half the thickness of a dime in the handle stack. I decided a temporary fix would be to wrap something thin around the tang in that gap and went with thin copper wire (which is removable). I could probably find some sort of soft black filler material, even wax, and just push it into the remaining gap, smooth and polish everything and call it good, but thought I should try to find someone who has dealt with the same problem, as there's probably a better solution -- especially if someone knows whether that steel plate is threaded onto the tang and just needs to be unstuck.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions! FR
 
Last edited:
You felt windy. I'll make this SHORT. I have the PAL model 36 WW II era and the bell pommel is pinned. You can 1) soak your handle in coats of mink oil or Neat Foot oil and this may swell it enough to tighten.
2) Tap the pin out (carefully) and save it. Then make a leather disk, cut a slot to match the tang. Install it and replace the pin. Then sand the disk to blend in and oil it... DM
 
David: Appreciate the advice. Already decided soaking in oil won't solve this problem (gap too big, plus possible downside effects). Option #2 makes sense, but not for this knife, which has a turned wooden pommel, no pin. I can add a washer, but need to get the pommel off first.

Anyone familiar with this particular design and/or have experience with disassembly? FR

IMG_0923.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Last edited:
It must be glued on. I've not seen one with a wooden bell pommel looking like that. I don't think that's original. That loose condition could have been created from whoever put it on. If it's wooden, a chisel can easily get it off. Then leather disc added and a new aluminum bell pommel made and pinned on. I think you'll find a hole in the tang under the wood. DM[SUB][/SUB]
 
The end cap is peened in place. Leave it alone.
Here is how to fix your knife:
Cut the washer from the leather. Leave it oversized. Cut the center out. Then cut a line from the center to the outside.
Open the washer, and stuff it into the handle, going around until you get to the other side. If you have compressed the leather sufficiently, the joint won't even show.
Then, grind/file/sand the washer flush-going in one direction ONLY. Once smoothed to the level of the other washers, stain to match.
The repair is simple, easy, foolproof, and you won't ruin the knife trying to dis/re assemble it.
 
I hesitated to mention that to him. As I've done that and you can see it. If you use enough glue you can hide it. It won't come off and it fills the space.
That being a good photo it looks like someone has already replaced 2 leather disc. DM
 
David and Bill: Here's what I can add. I've seen several identical knives for sale on eBay and shown in WW2 fighting knives collections, so I'm pretty certain it is a factory-original variation.

The washers you see in the photo that look different aren't replaced, but are a hard rubber or fiber material -- there are two on each end (another pair is up against the finger guard, not shown in this photo) bracketing the others, which are leather.

I will give some thought to the new leather washer idea and let you know how the project turns out. The gap I need to fill is much thinner than the width of one of the original leather washers, which could be a challenge. Thanks! FR
 
Back
Top