Help

[Jake5713]

So to preface my request I would like to admit something...

I cannot sharpen to save my life without my wicked edge and that includes the worksharp Ken onion edition I attempted to sharpen my team gemini battle grade

So I haven't been able to sharpen this knife for all my attempts. I left off on the most course grit in an attempt to minimize damage to the bevels

I'm currently stationed in camp pendleton California and I was wondering if there is anyone who is proficient at sharpening busses in my area who would be willing to help me out as I'd prefer not to ship the blade I've waited so long for. I will of course compensate you

Thanks gents pics attached

 

[Bobby3326]

You likely need to just spend more time on the x65 belt on half to full speed until you reach a burr on both sides then move on...it deff should be able to sharpen it...also what angle are you sharpening it at? You trying to reprofile to a less angle? That of course would take longer.

A blade with a thick grind is going to seem to just not be getting sharp especially if you're lower the angle any considerable amount. Either keep grinding away until you thin it out or use a sharpie color your edge and increase the angle until you're removing it evenly and raise a burr.

 

[Jake5713]

I'm trying to reach 25 dps

 

[Bobby3326]

I'm trying to reach 25 dps

How thick is that blade? Blade thickness effects your true sharpening angle on the work sharp, a ¼"thick knife sharpened at the 25° setting will produce an edge around 20-22.5° .

If that blade is thick try increasing the angle on the guide to 27.5°ish and run with the x65 belt until you reach a burr on one side, then switch off to the other side until you reach a burr again. Then raise a burr on each side once again to be sure it's been apexed, then proceed thru the other grits with alternating passes. Also the purple belt sux, it made my edges duller than when it came off the x4.


Or just keep it on 25° and do the same thing...May just take longer. Should get a cup of water to dip it in occasionally to keep the temp down. Patience is going to be your key to success, I've had a few thick blades that required atleast 100 passes per side on the course belt before I reached the edge.

 

[Jake5713]

I'm not sure it's pretty thick I can't clamp it in my wicked edge

 

[kn4wd]

would be happy to help you but we are about as far apart as possible. I use dmt's mostly and going from c to f to ef progression it should sharpen nicely.as far as reprofiling it would probably meet my kmg.

 

[Bobby3326]

I'm not sure it's pretty thick I can't clamp it in my wicked edge

Then if you want a 25° edge do what I said above by bumping the guide up a lil and just go at it....you can also use a sharpie to color the edge and after a pass look to see where it's removing steel at..If it's just on the shoulders then you have a higher factory angle and will need to take the time to reprofile it, if it's just on the edge you can lower your angle lil by lil until it's removing it along the entire bevel and sharpen until you reach a burr on both sides.

 

[Bobby3326]

The key is just having patience, I can tell you the ko work sharp is very capable of putting a very sharp edge on it, you just have to take the time to fully apex it. Otherwise it'll never be sharp.

 

[bgentry]

You would need to practice on some other blades, but here's what I would do if you handed the blade to me:

After examining it to determine how much metal needed to be removed, and assuming that it needs some significant reprofiling, I'd start with my most coarse, belt. In this case, that's my 60 grit ceramic. If it didn't need quite so much, I would instead start with a 200 micron or perhaps 80 grit belt. If I only had the stock belts, no way would I start with the X65. I'd start with the *most* coarse belt, the P120. Honestly, the P120, while pretty coarse, is kinda slow compared to the x200 or the 60 grit.

I'd work both sides evenly, doing something like 4 passes on each side, then examining the blade to see how much work it needs. Oh, I should have mentioned right up front: No guides. I'd do this all freehand, with the guide removed. This is why I said you'd need to practice on other blades first; unless you feel you're proficient enough now to not ugly up the bevels.

Using a coarse belt, has all the same principles as a coarse stone. See Secret #7 for more details. Any big job should always start with the most coarse belt.

Brian.

 

[Bobby3326]

Only reason I said the x65 is bc he has a less chance of screwing up...a fresh x65 belt will hog off steel enough to get the job done. I know it's definitely capable of doing it since That's about the lowest grit I ever use anymore unless I'm really really needing to take off allot of material then I'll go to an 80 grit... I never recommend anyone use the p120 or lower belts until they're completely confident in using the work sharp...

 

[bgentry]

Either you're ready for a big job, or you're not. Using too fine of a belt will just make things take longer, be more frustrating, and make the overall results less consistent. At some point, you've got to either use the right tool for the job, let someone else do it, or practice until you're good enough with the right tool to do the job correctly. The X65 is the wrong tool for a giant blade that needs to be reprofiled. *If* in fact it needs a lot of metal removal (reprofiling).

Brian.