Help_ Spyderco Mule Team project

D

DeAdEyE956

Joined
Dec 31, 2010
Messages
908
(FYI I have googled for 4hrs, I dont want pre-made scales) Ok I am currently in the process of figuring out how to make some scales for The mule team 16 I bought. I ordered a few to make as gifts for family. My father's b-day is coming up and I would like to make him some scales and buy a leather sheath if possible. What size do I need for the scales? I have looked and the only info I saw was 3/8 was too thick. What dimension should I get? I want to get desert ironwood for my dad. I hope to give it a classy look. Maybe SS 1/4 corby bolt and a lanyard tube and use epoxy. I have a 1x30 belt sander, drill press, and assorted files. I need to get a hand saw to cut the out line of the scale material. I am mostly looking for leather sheath ideas and handle dimension to order the materials. Please feel to PM on where to get the materials. thanks for the help I have a place here in the US that sales knife making stuff ;);)


On a side note I have to say this is a really great deal from Spyderco. I was looking for something like this. I almost got a camp knife blank, but this is a perfect edc project knife. Thanks Spyderco.
 
The small holes in the handle are a 3/16 hole.

For handle thickness, it is going to be a personal preference. I feel a 3/8 is too thick, and a 1/8 is a little thin. Have not tried anything else.

A coping saw should be fine to cut out scales if you don't have a jigsaw or a scroll/band saw.
 
3/16 or 1/4 are good sizes that fit hand. if you plan to do any shaping of the handle (like a coke bottle shape) go for the 1/4. For wood look no farther than bell forest products. if they dont have it this forum usually has vendors. good luck!
 
thank you very much. so the scale dimension should be 1/4 thick x 4in long x ?height 1 1/2? 1 3/4, 2in? thanks again
 
I normally go for 3/8 inch thick scales - it gives you more room to shape and contour the handles. 1/4" are good too. 5"x2" or 4.5"x1.5" scales should be sufficient.

You can check out the "Show Your Mule" thread over at the Spyderco Forum - there are hundreds of examples to look at and lots of friendly folks to answer questions.

TedP
 
DeAdEyE956 said:
Maybe SS 1/4 corby bolt and a lanyard tube and use epoxy. I have a 1x30 belt sander, drill press, and assorted files. I need to get a hand saw to cut the out line of the scale material.
Click to expand...

You have good tools to start with.

I have made scales for a half dozen blades, but haven't made any for my mules yet. I used corby bolts and epoxy too.

IMG_2598b.jpg



I drilled holes through my wood slabs, took careful measurements and added countersinks to the outsides of the scales for the bolts. I had to shorten the bolts a little bit to get this to work out. My goal was to leave enough material under the bolts to work but to have the bolts deep enough that when the tops were ground off they didn't expose the hole in the female bolt. I also sanded and sealed the edges of the scales closest to the blade.

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I put epoxy on everything and assembled it with the screws and clamps.

IMG_2609b.jpg



Then I used my belt sander to take off the excess material.

IMG_2611b.jpg


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I don't claim to be an expert but these came out pretty good. I think the 1" sander would help to contour the scales, I haven't done much contouring of mine. I've also read about people using coarse files to rough shape the scales. I've considered sanding drums in my drill press to contour the edges of the scales. This is the part that I have the most trouble with.
 
Nice looking knife, bd!

One caution on using a belt sander with some of the dense, oily hardwoods - like Cocobolo, Rosewood, Lignum Vitae, etc. If you grind it real hard on the belts, the friction can easily burn the oils in the woods, causing burns and discoloration. With these woods, I prefer to use files to knock the slabs down to size - then finish with hand sanding.

TedP
 
Thanks for the tips. They helped. I will be sure to post my experience and results. I signed up on spyderco forum. Thanks again. I have a couple of good leads for leather sheaths. 1. Is buy a buck 191 replacement sheath. 2.north coast leather but not sure which model. I may go that route over buck.
 
Ehhhm, there's a much more important caution. I've gotten really sick, and lots of others have, too, sanding tropical hardwoods without good respiratory protection. I won't sand anything any more without a quality respirator at a minimum.

phillipsted said:
Nice looking knife, bd!

One caution on using a belt sander with some of the dense, oily hardwoods - like Cocobolo, Rosewood, Lignum Vitae, etc. If you grind it real hard on the belts, the friction can easily burn the oils in the woods, causing burns and discoloration. With these woods, I prefer to use files to knock the slabs down to size - then finish with hand sanding.

TedP
Click to expand...
 
JNewell said:
Ehhhm, there's a much more important caution. I've gotten really sick, and lots of others have, too, sanding tropical hardwoods without good respiratory protection.
Click to expand...

I do this very occasionally, maybe one set of scales a year. Might be hard to tell from my photo but my sander is set up on my deck out in the back yard. I don't know how much risk I'm running, I might reconsider if I start making more scales. I've read that grinding micarta is also dangerous, and especially grinding G10 and carbon fiber.
 
That's why I do most of my scale work with hand tools - coping saw, rasps, files, etc. It generates less airborn junk to breathe. :cool: Definitely invest in some good dust protection masks and/or a respirator.

TedP
 
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