Here come the questions, AK15 ?

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Jul 24, 2015
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What makes the AK15 the number one seller? Is it due to the fact it's been around so long? Design?....?

I read a thread talking about proper technique using Kukri in the field. I really liked the tip saying "grab Kukri with thumb and pointing finger firmly and allow the Kukri to whip....are there any great videos showing grip etc. Also, I have seen the two pics on proper way to remove Kukri from sheath, how does a guy cut himself either way. It appears the suggested technique is better, but I'm not sure how you cut yourself pulling the wrong way.

Is 15 inch the most popular best overall length for general use?

Lastly, I have a Kukri of lesser quality from a friendly competitor, the bottom steel piece became loose after use. I could return it, but I prefer to learn with this piece and become more proficient with technique etc before trashing my HI, it was not the plan but may make sense.
I pounded it back tight with rubber mallet and it firmed up, but I can tell it will come loose again. Any ideas other than duct tape? I also thought about putting a modern handle on it if it goes south, know anybody ?

Many thanks for your feedback.

Pappa
 
What makes the AK15 the number one seller? Is it due to the fact it's been around so long? Design?....?

I read a thread talking about proper technique using Kukri in the field. I really liked the tip saying "grab Kukri with thumb and pointing finger firmly and allow the Kukri to whip....are there any great videos showing grip etc. Also, I have seen the two pics on proper way to remove Kukri from sheath, how does a guy cut himself either way. It appears the suggested technique is better, but I'm not sure how you cut yourself pulling the wrong way.

Is 15 inch the most popular best overall length for general use?

Lastly, I have a Kukri of lesser quality from a friendly competitor, the bottom steel piece became loose after use. I could return it, but I prefer to learn with this piece and become more proficient with technique etc before trashing my HI, it was not the plan but may make sense.
I pounded it back tight with rubber mallet and it firmed up, but I can tell it will come loose again. Any ideas other than duct tape? I also thought about putting a modern handle on it if it goes south, know anybody ?

Many thanks for your feedback.

Pappa

I don't know why the AK 15 is the most popular, or if it still is. I'm sure I'll have the opportunity to find out. It is known to be a very good chopper.

As for a technique goes. These blades carry a lot of mass, which mean momentum, which means they don't stop cutting even when you stop applying force. Think of an axe. Once you realize it, proper technique keeps you safe.

I believe one of the things that makes a kukri so unique is that the user can hold it based upon how you plan to use it. That sounds overly simple, but you can choke up on the blade, and even grip it close to the cho for finer cutting, hold a full grip for a normal swing, drop your hand back next to the pommel for a deep chop, or move your hand forward and place your thumb on the blade for a more dexterous lighter cut. The kukri also makes a pretty good draw knife. The kukri is a great design.

Cutting yourself withdrawing or even sheathing the blade is easier than you may think. Since the blade has so much mass, it becomes quiet possible to cut though the sheath with little effort. With your fingers over the sheath where the edge is, it is easy to cut through the sheath, and into your fingers. The best techniques involve keeping the fingers behind the cutting zone. Just push the spine up against the sheath when you withdraw the blade.

Also be careful re sheathing. I pushed the tip of a well honed kukri through a sheath.


I'm sure others will answer your repair questions.
 
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I read a thread talking about proper technique using Kukri in the field. I really liked the tip saying "grab Kukri with thumb and pointing finger firmly and allow the Kukri to whip....are there any great videos showing grip etc. Also, I have seen the two pics on proper way to remove Kukri from sheath, how does a guy cut himself either way. It appears the suggested technique is better, but I'm not sure how you cut yourself pulling the wrong way....

I'm not sure about videos that show proper technique, but there are several videos out there that show terrible technique. Especially the ones where someone is comparing the chopping power of several different types of knives. In those videos, the chopper holds the khukuri in a tight "death grip" and hacks away like a Viking berserker with an axe. Not good. I believe the best way to do a snap cut (or whip cut) is to propel the khukuri with the front fingers and only tighten the rear fingers at the moment of impact. However, others with more experience will probably have more to say about this.

As for cutting yourself:

A standard Nepalese khukuri scabbard consist of two slabs of wood held together by an outer leather casing. Other than the leather, there's not much to keep the blade edge from slicing through where the two slabs of wood meet. If your fingers happen to be there, the blade will slice through them as well.

Since khukuris are hand-made, the exact dimensions (length, width, thickness, curvature) will vary, even for a given model. Therefore, the scabbard is made for the particular khukuri. Many scabbards are a very close fit (sometimes a little loose, sometimes a little too tight, but often just right), which makes for good retention. That means the edge of the blade is very close to the edge of the scabbard where the two slabs meet, which is why you have to keep your fingers in a safe position when sheathing or unsheathing a blade.

I have a new Foxy Folly that fits so perfectly in its scabbard that it seems miraculous every time I sheath or unsheath it without cutting through the leather. Even Yangdu, who has handled thousands of these blades occasionally damages a scabbard (but not her fingers).
 
I'm not sure about videos that show proper technique, but there are several videos out there that show terrible technique. Especially the ones where someone is comparing the chopping power of several different types of knives. In those videos, the chopper holds the khukuri in a tight "death grip" and hacks away like a Viking berserker with an axe. Not good. I believe the best way to do a snap cut (or whip cut) is to propel the khukuri with the front fingers and only tighten the rear fingers at the moment of impact. However, others with more experience will probably have more to say about this.

As for cutting yourself:

A standard Nepalese khukuri scabbard consist of two slabs of wood held together by an outer leather casing. Other than the leather, there's not much to keep the blade edge from slicing through where the two slabs of wood meet. If your fingers happen to be there, the blade will slice through them as well.

Since khukuris are hand-made, the exact dimensions (length, width, thickness, curvature) will vary, even for a given model. Therefore, the scabbard is made for the particular khukuri. Many scabbards are a very close fit (sometimes a little loose, sometimes a little too tight, but often just right), which makes for good retention. That means the edge of the blade is very close to the edge of the scabbard where the two slabs meet, which is why you have to keep your fingers in a safe position when sheathing or unsheathing a blade.

I have a new Foxy Folly that fits so perfectly in its scabbard that it seems miraculous every time I sheath or unsheath it without cutting through the leather. Even Yangdu, who has handled thousands of these blades occasionally damages a scabbard (but not her fingers).

Ok, now it makes sense. Thank you very much. Great ex[planation. My two HI scabbards are like a work of art. The fit amazes me how perfectly firmly they got these in a "By Hand" process.
 
My first HI was an AK15, and I've never regretted it. I bought it as a replacement for a backpacking hatchet/short machete, and it's perfect in that role. It is a favorite of mine due to its combination of good length, relative light weight, insane strength of design, good chopping ability, and versatility. However... It is relatively heavy, some complain of more feedback in the handle under heavy chopping, and the durability is probably overkill for most applications. It depends on what you're trying to do, but if you're looking for a good, versatile, relatively cheap HI, I'd start with the KLVUK. It may look rough, but it's a hell of a user.
 
Even if it were discontinued today, it would be a while before anything came close.

It's rep as compact powerhouse and tests verifying that fact is what sells it....it was my first, bought via phone from Bill for deployment use when he first advertised in a magazine, and the knife deserves the rep....i just sent one to friend last month and while visiting sister out of town, found much downed large limbs and very grumpy brother in law.....out came AK from trunk and downed limbs reduced to neat pile in short order and brother in law making noises of buying one...

Technique easily learned with no help, only let the blade do the work same as axe or sledge...hand only guides/throws and no power-through on handle which is counterproductive....great heavy duty blade....easy to take places....while very traditional....
 
...let the blade do the work same as axe or sledge...hand only guides/throws and no power-through on handle which is counterproductive...

This aspect doesn't get mentioned enough, IMHO. Ignoring this repeatedly can lead to hand/wrist ache and not as much work accomplished.
 
This aspect doesn't get mentioned enough, IMHO. Ignoring this repeatedly can lead to hand/wrist ache and not as much work accomplished.

People doing same to axes, mauls, and sledges is what keeps handle makers in business.....let the weight do the work where only labor is raising it up, this is how people can chop and pound all day....any other way ends up hurting you and tool quite badly and maybe permanently...
 
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