Here we go again, another stabilizing question.

L6steel

L6steel

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
5,855
I finally got myself a nice vacuum pump.It even came with a jar to use for stabilzing stuff. I plan on using Minwax
rotted wood hardener. I want to add dye to it. What would be the best dye to use, would leather dye work??
I plan on putting the material and solution in the jar and then drawing a vacuum and leaving it over night or until there are no more bubbles
coming out. Is it necessary to remove the vacuum and then pressurize the vessel?? Thanks for any help, criticism, ridicule, jokes, and flat out insults you might wish to share with me in this thread!
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Take care!! Michael
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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
L6:
This is how I do it.
The Mason jar I only use it for the vacuum. I check the vacuum ever day. It is left in the jar for a least a week. The only color I have used to this point is Mini Wax stain on maple. I am plan to use some pigment (inert)that I use in my mosaic pins, I plan on trying on some maple, I'll let you know how I make out.
For applying pressure I have a pressure pot, that is used for spraying paint. I keep it at 80 psi. Place in a warm area. I also replace the air in the chamber at least ever other day. One batch took a week and a half to dry.

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INDIAN GEORGE
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=261337
http://www.indiangeorgesknives.com/

[This message has been edited by indian george (edited 03-21-2001).]

[This message has been edited by indian george (edited 03-21-2001).]
 
the way i do my stabilizeing is the mason jar technique but know vacuum is required
minwax wood hardener and transtint wood dye mix in appropriate proportion so the solution will cover the wood in jar. put the wood in cap the jar.then warm the solutin in hot tap water make sure the cap is tight let the jar pressureize. while the solution is still hot the take out side open jar to release the pressure ( dont breath the fumes)then recap the jar put back in the hot water keep it warm for aout 4 to five hours. then let cool this will create a vacuum in the jar.let set for about 12 hrs then check. when the wood starts sink to the bottom of the jar open jar and release the vacuum. then let set until the wood is resting on the botom of the jar and is no longer boyant the whole process will take two to three days it is now sabilized and dyed remove and let dry for a week. why i think this works is the warm solution penatrates the wood better than cold and the warmth opens the grain of the wood plus the natural vacuum that is crated helps pull the air out of the wood. hope this helps Russ

[This message has been edited by rotor (edited 03-21-2001).]

[This message has been edited by rotor (edited 03-21-2001).]
 
L-6
Iwould be careful with the dye as everything I use wood hardener on turns a lot darker than what you start with.Even the wood hardener turn almost black.I don't pressurize but I think I might try it.Can't hurt

I do use the mason jar vacumn thing on all my wood.
Take Care
TJ Smith
 
You can get wood dyes from most woodworking places like Leevalley.com. They also sell a wood stabilizer that you just soak the wood in. Called Pentacryl, I think. Has anyone tried it? It's made for carvers that work with green wood. Sounds like a simpler solution to me than all that vacuum and pressure.
 
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