Here's Another Radial Mosaic Bowie

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Jul 8, 2001
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This has become one of my favorite mosaic patterns. OAL - 12 5/8 w/ 7 3/4" blade, The guard and pommel are of the same mosaic billet. Handle is curly maple with sterling silver wire inlay. The picture for sure doesn't do this handle any justice, the different shades in the handle are really beautiful. I applied 2 light coats of leather dye and then hand rubbed in 3 coats of danish oil, allowing 24hrs. between coats.

Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill, the pictures don't do your knife justice! That piece is beautiful! How are you going to be able to part with that one, anyhow?
 
And yet another beauty! I wouldnt expect anything less from you anymore Bill. You have arrived!

BTW how is the maple wood treated to get the nice grain to be that color and the satin sheen? Care to share?
 
You just keep cranking out those beauties Bill. :)
Next time use curley maple but match the damascus pattern to it! :eek: :D
 
Thanks everyone, I do like those Radials.

Sweany, all its called is mosaic radial pattern.

B.B. Sure I'll share, I'll share anything I know, but thats not much. All I do when I work maple is , first I start off with a nice figured piece. this piece was rated AAA from the local wood store, best he had, if you can get AAAAA you'll get a really nice wood. Then I finish sand to 400 grit., do the inlay and smooth everything back up to 400 grit., I then apply 2 light coats of fieblings med.brown leather dye, giving the wood about 30 minutes to dry between the dye applications, then let them totally dry. Then buff it good with 0000 steel wool. apply a good heavy coat of danish oil and let it soak in for about 5 minutes. Now gently wipe off the excess leaving just a fine thin coating and start rubbing with you index finger back and forth, your actually burnishing with your finger and working the oil in at the same time. rub until the wood no longer feels slick, usually takes 5-10 minutes depending on how well the wood absorbs the oil. let it sit and dry for 24 hrs., but check it while drying and rub in any excess that sweats from the wood, ( you'll see what I mean, little tiny beads of oil will pop up) Then apply another coating of oil the same way, letting it sit for 24 hrs. bewteen coats. I apply 3 coats, but it would probably be even better with 5 or more. Thats all I do.

Thanks again,

Bill
 
man that's a beauty!!! I think it's impossible to make a knife that I don't love! One of these days I'm going to have to buck up and buy one of your blades. :)
 
Neat mosaic pattern, Bill....pushed my jealousy button.....:D
 
Thanks for sharing I didnt know they rated maple. Have you ever seen AAAAA maple for sale? One more question....what brand of danish oil?
 
Thanks everyone,

Bruce, yes, I had a small board of it (AAAAA) but like an idiot, I used it for something else. I have seen AAAA at this place before, but it wasn't in the thicknesses I wanted. I think the 5A is what they use for musical instruments.
E-bay usually has some listed. The danish oil brand I use is
General GF Finishes www.generalfinishes.com in natural color. But I figure any good brand danish oil will work.

Thanks again,

Bill
 
Bruce

AAAAA grade curly maple is often used for stock wood in custom muzzleloaders. Several years ago I got a huge box full of stock scraps, which are actually big enough for knife handles, for the cost of shipping from Jack Garner at Jack's Stock Shop in Corinth, Ms. I don't have his contact info anymore, but Tennessee Valley Muzzleloading can put you in touch with him, I'm sure. Just drop them an e-mail at their web page, or give them a call.

Todd
 
Primo maple can be obtained from Gilmer Wood. It ain't cheap, but it's beautiful. I bought 3 sets of bookmatched instrument tops to do some inlay plaques and can't bring myself to cut into it.... ;)

The only problem with Gilmer is the $100 minimum, but heck, that's not too terrible.
 
Beutiful job Bill, and thanks for the method on the maple, I'm going to have to give that a try, that handle is awsome!
 
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