Hex holes

Joined
Oct 7, 2013
Messages
162
I've seen some photos of custom wood scales with hex holes like the Grivory scales.
How are you guys cutting those recessed holes?
 
I just drill them and form the hex "faces" with a small chisel. There's a tutorial around here somewhere about burning the hex into the wood with a heated bolt.
 
Awesome! I was wondering the exact same thing. Going to try to make some scales for a Tackett knife I recently aquired, first attmempt ever. I would rather use screws that pinning.
 
Yep, like James said, drill them out and then use a small, sharp chisel. Work at it slowly and it should be fine. I also traced around the hex head with a pencil first to get the correct sizing.
 
You can buy pins that screw in from both directions so you don't have to do that. They even make brass pin/screws that are long so you can cut off the slot after you screw them together if you don't like that feature. Check out a knife makers supply house and learn about all the cool options you have.
 
I did mine in mycarta, not wood, but after drilling the initial hole I traced the nut with a fine sharpie and shaped the flats with a dremel using a very small bit. Another possibility.

Corby Bolts are the pins where you trim off the slot after installation. Used a couple on the handle in my avatar - very easy. Not detachable, though.
Sex Screws are another method - they'll be removable, and don't require a hex cut. (Used 'em on my 24.)
Both require a counterbore if you want the fasteners flush with the scale.
 
You can buy pins that screw in from both directions so you don't have to do that. They even make brass pin/screws that are long so you can cut off the slot after you screw them together if you don't like that feature. Check out a knife makers supply house and learn about all the cool options you have.

Yes....personally, I find the hex cut unsightly and cheap.
 
After drilling/countersinking, I used a chisel bit for my X-acto knife since I couldn't find a chisel small enough.





Pins look nice, but since
I'll probably end up stripping the blade someday, I wanted the handles to be easily removed.
 
Yes....personally, I find the hex cut unsightly and cheap.

The advantage is being able to remove the bolts with just one hex key. Plus some people just like the look, as it's kind of a Becker "trademark".

Corby bolts are what I use on probably 90% of my work. If you want to make them removable, just cut the slot deeper so there's still something for a screwdriver to grab onto once they're ground flush with the scales.

Chain-ring bolts are another option.
 
The advantage is being able to remove the bolts with just one hex key. Plus some people just like the look, as it's kind of a Becker "trademark".

Corby bolts are what I use on probably 90% of my work. If you want to make them removable, just cut the slot deeper so there's still something for a screwdriver to grab onto once they're ground flush with the scales.

Chain-ring bolts are another option.

Yes, they are first rate and compliment your first rate knives.:thumbup:
 
...Sex Screws are another method....

Ok, I have to ask:

What are these?
Would I find these in a particularly disreputable place?
Isn't Sex and Screw the same thing?
If so, why aren't they just called Screw Screws?
Do they come in Stainless Steel or some weird Silicone base?

I'm really afraid to Google "Sex Screw"
 
Ok, I have to ask:

What are these?
Would I find these in a particularly disreputable place?
Isn't Sex and Screw the same thing?
If so, why aren't they just called Screw Screws?
Do they come in Stainless Steel or some weird Silicone base?

I'm really afraid to Google "Sex Screw"

LOL! Yeah, I'm at work and feeling hesitant about it. So I googled sex screw hardware and avoided any porn.
 
"Sex bolts" covers a wide range of fasteners. Technically all these are sex bolts. What they all have in common is that a male part threads into a female one, pulling the scales tight against the tang. Since they're threaded together, they provide a mechanical fastener that won't fail even if the epoxy holding the scales on degrades over time.

Various Loveless bolts (1-4 from L to R) and Corby bolts (5-7) :

CIMG7873.jpg


The advantage of Corby bolts is that once they're ground flush with the handle, they look like a solid pin. Loveless bolts will always show an uneven ring where the bolt is threaded into the bushing.

Chain ring bolts :

e13-ChainringBolt-Kit-1.jpg
 
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I like the black YFS fasteners on my TKC knife scales, but would like to know a source and size for these screws in a stainless or titanium finish.
 
"Sex bolts" covers a wide range of fasteners. Technically all these are sex bolts. What they all have in common is that a male part threads into a female one, pulling the scales tight against the tang. Since they're threaded together, they provide a mechanical fastener that won't fail even if the epoxy holding the scales on degrades over time.

Various Loveless bolts (1-4 from L to R) and Corby bolts (5-7) :

The advantage of Corby bolts is that once they're ground flush with the handle, they look like a solid pin. Loveless bolts will always show an uneven ring where the bolt is threaded into the bushing.

Chain ring bolts :

Thanks for pulling me out of that one, James!
I do find it ironic (or fitting?) that Loveless bolts are alternatively known as sex bolts...
- Tom
 
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