Hey Dan have you tested your 3V?

Shotgun

Shotgun

Joined
Feb 3, 2006
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I'm asking in particular about the bushcraft design. Have you tested the strengths and weaknesses of this steel and design and if so, do you have specifics? Batoning, edge holding, prying, etc?
 
Yes - I have tested it - and in different grinds.

It is a great steel overall...but really excels in a scandi grind.


There have been quite a few reviews of it both on my forum and on others. Too many to try to dig them all up (plus the search engine doesn't like 2 letter queries).

Do you have specific questions?

If so, I could address those a bit easier than digging up the old threads.

:thumbup:

Dan
 
My question is towards batoning mostly. I have a SRKW Howling Rat LM that I'm using now and it has near to the same specs as the Bushcraft as far as length is concerned but it's thicker at 3/16". This knife really can be pounded through just about any wood without risk of damage and was wondering about the 3V and how it would hold up to a lot of batoning. Prying pitchwood off a stump would be another use. I really want the Bushcrafter to replace the Swamp Rat as my woods knife.
 
do a search on batoning in my forum - should turn up an answer.

Short answer - yes, you can baton the crap outta 3V. :D
 
Shotgun said:
I'm asking in particular about the bushcraft design. Have you tested the strengths and weaknesses of this steel and design and if so, do you have specifics? Batoning, edge holding, prying, etc?
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I've never used mine for prying but batoning yes.

I think all scandi edges are prone to some chipping if you use them rough.

But the 3V steel takes the thinnest edge with the least chipping of any scandi I have tried and I have 1095,01,D2 and L6 scandis in addition to the 3v.

My koster has one small chip in the edge compared to multiple small chips for the others and that was from pounding thru dried oak. That is about the same performance as I got out of a Fiddleback Woodsman which has an edge that is way steeper than the scandi. I think that's pretty amazing.

The other really good thing about the 3v is the rust resistance. You can't really forget to take an 01 knife out of the sheath and wipe it off and maybe even oil it after a walk in the rain. The 3v one you can.

On edge holding it seems like I lose the shaving sharp edge off of the 3V blade quicker than 01 or D2. However the blade keeps a very sharp working edge probably twice as long as the 01. So if I was left in a forest with my knife I'd choose the 3v one because it would resist rust and wear longer without sharpening. It is way harder and somewhat trickier for me to sharpen than D2 01 or the rest but the plus is you don't have to do it very often.

There is always a tradeoff between cutting efficiency and durability as far as the edge angle. But putting the scandi edge with the 3v is as close as you can come to combining something like the Howling Rat you mention that has a steep edge but durable with something that has a high cutting efficiency like most scandis.

:thumbup:
 
Very well said, hollowdweller.

And it tells a lot about why I chose CPM3V in the first place.


O1 is a great tool steel and takes a nice keen edge. BUT, it does not take a "working edge" as well as CPM3V - what I like to call a "polished toothy" edge.

I can get an O1 blade to smoothly slice through paper...but then when it comes time to cut rope, it glides. For a chopping/carving knife (push cuts) that's ideal. But when it comes time to rip/tear through stuff....sucks eggs. :p

Given that the nature of the bushcraft knife is to be an all-around knife handling food prep, wood working, batoning, slicing (draw cuts) - I have found it better to put a "working edge" on it.

I sharpen at a medium grit (120-220) and then strop. What results is a jagged edge that is finely polished. It still shaves and push cuts just fine...but when it comes to cut rope (or anything requiring a draw cut motion) it really excels.

D2, of course, would be my first choice if I wanted to draw cut only. Higher stain resistance and very toothy. But the drawback is the effort required to sharpen, as well as the "less keen" edge compared to 3V or O1.


I'm doing my best to balance what the "papers/charts/graphs/etc" say....with what the actual users are reporting back to me....and this is the sum of what I know so far.

:thumbup:

Dan
 
I know I have tested Dan's 3V and highly recommend it. I use my Bushcrafter as a survival instructor and use it more than any other scandi knife I have. It is one of my top 3 blades in my collection and one of only 3 I have duplicates for just in case. This knife has served me well since purchasing it and it is my go to blade for professional or recreational use. I have polished my edge using 1500 grit paper then black and green polishing compound and the edge rarely needs a touch up. Dan's 3V is great and the bushcraft can't be improved upon in my opinion. It delivers to the bushcrafter/survivalist/outdoorsman all he could ask for.

A+ Dan!
 
I have pried with my Koster Nessie no problem and that's only 1095, I don't think you will have anything at all to worry about with 3V !!!!
 
I have a Bushy made from 3V well actually 2 due to Dan makes a great knife, and the Edge holding and the Strength of the bushcraft is why it is one of my Top outdoor blades. Thanks Dan for building a Great knife... 3V is awesome !
 
Thanks for the great reviews, guys. Even though I do test my knives and designs....I much prefer feedback/testing from others. Keeps me grounded in reality. :p


Dan
 
Thanks guys. I want the Bushcraft to replace my howling rat for weight reasons and also I'm hoping that the scandi grind will be a little easier for me to sharpen. I've done a few threads asking about thin knives especially the one in the W&SS section on "the thinnest knife you'd baton." Everyone says that 1/8th is fine and the feedback from 4 guys who I trust the opinion on in this thread really puts my mind at ease. Now it's just a waiting game for the knife to get here which is driving me a little crazy but I'm able to hold it together. Barely.:D

For the record, I'm trying to use/learn other methods than batoning for fire starting so batoning is really going to be a backup method for fast fire starting in an actual survival situation. Thanks again guys.
 
Shotgun said:
Thanks guys. I want the Bushcraft to replace my howling rat for weight reasons and also I'm hoping that the scandi grind will be a little easier for me to sharpen. I've done a few threads asking about thin knives especially the one in the W&SS section on "the thinnest knife you'd baton." Everyone says that 1/8th is fine and the feedback from 4 guys who I trust the opinion on in this thread really puts my mind at ease. Now it's just a waiting game for the knife to get here which is driving me a little crazy but I'm able to hold it together. Barely.:D

For the record, I'm trying to use/learn other methods than batoning for fire starting so batoning is really going to be a backup method for fast fire starting in an actual survival situation. Thanks again guys.
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If you want something easier to sharpen maybe get one in 01. Dan makes them and they are 1/8".

Also compared to a Howling Rat (not sure what Howling Rat) but the bushcrafter will have a more fragile tip since it comes to a very fine point(one of the best parts of the design otherwise IMO)
 
hollowdweller said:
If you want something easier to sharpen maybe get one in 01. Dan makes them and they are 1/8".

Also compared to a Howling Rat (not sure what Howling Rat) but the bushcrafter will have a more fragile tip since it comes to a very fine point(one of the best parts of the design otherwise IMO)
Click to expand...
It's not the steel it's the convexed edge. I have no problem sharpening my S30V folder for instance. Convexed edges are supposed to be easy but I can't get the edge as sharp as I want it to be. Serviceable but not great.
 
Dude, you will not regret this purchase! This thing is tough as nails, comfortable to use, and the 3V is now one of my favorite steels! I have batoned the crap out of this thing.
 
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