Hey everyone...

philthygeezer

philthygeezer

Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
746
Just dropping in to drop off a picture. Uni is going well, life and girlfriend are fine and I've had scads of field trips to beautiful places. No changes with my friend Cheryl so that is good news. I've been lurking lately since coin is an issue, but those YCS were very, very tempting. So is that Katana... :D

This is the shore of Lake Huron as of Sunday night. Enjoy:

CRW_5775pnet.jpg


Peace all.
 
I've forgotten how much life is enhanced by framing and appreciating the beauty of life. I grew up at Tahoe, so Yosemite doesn't impress me that much, but I can find beauty in the desert that few who haven't experienced it over a long time do.

Don't be a stranger around this place!
 
I have a title for your artwork:


Quilted Sunrise



good to hear from you. I almost contacted you when the YCS came in.....but wasn't sure what to say....glad to know you got to see them anyway. There are more coming....;)....I know you've wanted one for a while....maybe we can work out a trade after all.....? ;)


Keep up the good work. Good luck with studies, etc.
 
Great picture, Phil.

Any progress on the guitar? (you were making one, IIRC).
 
Quilted Sunrise!?

I'd call it, "People who live on the beach shouldn't throw stones".

:rolleyes:
 
Aardvark said:
Any progress on the guitar? (you were making one, IIRC).
Click to expand...


I've sanded it to 600 and rubbed in the first coat of Tru-oil with a 3M white rubbing pad. The thing shines but still needs 3 or four coats. There is one almost imperceptible flaw in the finish that will hopefully blend in with the next coat.

I'll post pics soon.
 
Daniel Koster said:
good to hear from you. I almost contacted you when the YCS came in.....but wasn't sure what to say....glad to know you got to see them anyway. There are more coming....;)....I know you've wanted one for a while....maybe we can work out a trade after all.....? ;)


Keep up the good work. Good luck with studies, etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks! You can feel free to contact me whenever. :)
 
Hey, Phil, how did using the rubbing pad work for applying the finish? I've only done knife handles, never something as big as you're doing. On the last one, it took 17 coats before I was happy.
 
Aardvark said:
Hey, Phil, how did using the rubbing pad work for applying the finish? I've only done knife handles, never something as big as you're doing. On the last one, it took 17 coats before I was happy.
Click to expand...

So far it's working great. I was told to rub it in with 0000 steel wool but I didn't like the idea of metal filings caught up in the finish, which may disrupt the pickups on the bass. The white pads only have a bit of talc on them AFAIK, and seem to work very well.

I've been diluting the Tru Oil with about 35% mineral spirits in a wide bottle cap so it would penetrate into the flame of the maple. I dabbed some tru oil/mineral spirits on with a finger, spread it around as far as it would go by finger until it started to get sticky.

Then I switched to the pad and kept rubbing it in until it shined again. I kept doing this over and over until the bass was fully covered. Then it got a 600 grit sanding later in the day and I started applying more finish in liberal amounts to cover 1/4 of the body at a time, rubbing it in the same way. After all four quarters got tacky I then applied a thinned wash coat over everything and used the white pad to polich the whole side of the body at once.

It didn't completely get the faint seam on the back but I think it will disappear in the next couple of coats.
 
Philthy-I've been considering building myself a guitar out of warmoth parts. I want a solid-body with Lace Sensors, & a neck about 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" at the nut......mahogany neck with ebony board. Probably a Tele shape; not sure on that yet. I was wondering if you apply finish in the cavities of the body or just on the top, sides, & back?? Hopefully, the neck pocket will be too tight to allow any finish. Will sanding into the extremely fine grits, 1000 grit or higher, improve the appearance of the Tru-Oil finish?? What about using Rottenstone to complete the polishing of the final layer of finish?? I haven't nailed down all the hardware yet, but have been considering a Gold Lace Sensor for the front & a Blue one for the bridge & set it up to string through the body with probably 11's or 12's & use stainless steel frets maybe.

If I get enough stuff sold, I've been looking at one of Fender's new tube amps.......Twin chassis with one 15" JBL-type speaker.

If the Strat body shape is the final choice, I'm thinking of using the gold p/u in front, with blue ones in middle & bridge & building a hardtail. Either way, I think I'll route control cavities from the back & mount knobs through the top without a pickguard.

Thanks,
DKP
 
DKP said:
Philthy-I've been considering building myself a guitar out of warmoth parts. I want a solid-body with Lace Sensors, & a neck about 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" at the nut......mahogany neck with ebony board. Probably a Tele shape; not sure on that yet. I was wondering if you apply finish in the cavities of the body or just on the top, sides, & back?? Hopefully, the neck pocket will be too tight to allow any finish. Will sanding into the extremely fine grits, 1000 grit or higher, improve the appearance of the Tru-Oil finish?? What about using Rottenstone to complete the polishing of the final layer of finish?? I haven't nailed down all the hardware yet, but have been considering a Gold Lace Sensor for the front & a Blue one for the bridge & set it up to string through the body with probably 11's or 12's & use stainless steel frets maybe.

If I get enough stuff sold, I've been looking at one of Fender's new tube amps.......Twin chassis with one 15" JBL-type speaker.

If the Strat body shape is the final choice, I'm thinking of using the gold p/u in front, with blue ones in middle & bridge & building a hardtail. Either way, I think I'll route control cavities from the back & mount knobs through the top without a pickguard.

Thanks,
DKP
Click to expand...

I was going through my old posts and spotted this, so sorry for the late reply.

I've been told that the finer the sanding job at the start, the better a Tru-oil finish will look. I can attest to the fact that even Tru-oil shows every scratch in the wood. At 600 grit I have a shiny finish that I can see subtle reflections in, but not quite mirror. And this is reflecting on the bare ash, without finish. Sand until you have refleective qualities to the wood.

So far I've been just applying finish to the surface of the body and not to any interior cavities. I may seal them off when done or just leave them be except for shielding paint. I'm told that old '60s Fender P basses sound great because the wood has dried over time, so I don't know about sealing the body entirely.

My SG-bass body is a Warmoth. They make nice stuff. Good luck with your prooject, it sounds like fun!

Phil
 
Philthy, it's good to see you here.
You'll find a good sanding job before application of any coat or oil is always a good thing.



munk
 
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