I am somewhat new to the knife seen... But Im loving them. I recently bought a Microtech ultratech, a Microtech scarab and a utx70. And I am about to buy a Protech runt. I done a search on sharpeners... And for the money the Spyderco Sharpmaker seems to be my best bet. Any thoughts on this this sharpener for a new guy? Thanks Mike
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Hey guys...My 1st post. Thoughts on the Spyderco Sharpmaker
- Thread starter Mike555
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Yes the Sharpmaker is fantastic for maintaining the edge and keeping it sharp, it's what I use personally with great results and I'm no expert. There are already several threads with good info covering the Sharpmaker including technique tips. Try the "Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment" section or just use the search feature.
The Sharpmaker's one failing is on really dull blades. The ceramic stones take too much work to reprofile. For this they have two options, one a set of diamond impregnated rods (not cheap) and a new product, IIRC a more abrasive ceramic.
Unlikes some sharpening systems, ceramic rods remove metal, but retain their shape, so there is a not a lot of grit. They do wear down over time, but it takes years and there is no visible rod residue.
Unlikes some sharpening systems, ceramic rods remove metal, but retain their shape, so there is a not a lot of grit. They do wear down over time, but it takes years and there is no visible rod residue.
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Use a hone that doesn't shed it's own grit, like diamond, for that. When a coarse hone is used, it'll still obviously generate a lot of steel swarf (from the blade), but something like a diamond hone or some types of AlOx stones won't also throw in their own abrasive in the process (if properly used, with light pressure). The ceramics of the Sharpmaker won't shed much, if any, of their own grit; but they're still too 'fine' in grinding performance for jobs like re-profiling, if that's what's needed with your blade. If touch-up or light maintenance sharpening is the objective, then the Sharpmaker should be fine.
David
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ceramic rods (or stones) get plugged with metal and lose over time their effectiveness, you need to keep them clean all time.
Beside that, the spyderco sharpening system is a great one - for light maintenance.
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I always quickly wrap the end of the handle with a little blue painters tape, sealing off from debris as well as not having to worry about bumping the stones.
I have a similar situation. If you don't mind, I'd like to ask a related question here.
I took a class last year and learned to sharpen my kitchen knives with Japanese water stones. Now I am able to get a very sharp edge on my chef knife and paring knife. But I find it's much harder to sharpen pocket knives like my SAK and especially my Case Peanut (SS) on the stones. With such small knives, it's hard to maintain the correct angle, and also to sharpen the bellies on those small spear and clip blades. I think I need to practice (a lot) and maybe sacrifice a few inexpensive blades while I'm learning. But how will I sharpen more valuable knives in the meantime? At this point I'm reluctant to use the water stones on my Mini Griptilian, Tidioute #09 and #15, and EnZo Birk 75. Does it make sense to get a Sharpmaker to go along with my water stones, or should I just stick with what I already have?
Thanks,
Dave
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I use Japanese water stones to sharpen blades, it take A LOT of practice to use them properly; ask yourself - do you have the time and the will to use them.
if the answer is yes, so continue to use them and practice, practice, practice.
The great thing about free hand sharpening it that you are not limited to angels, you can use the corners of the stone (for curved blades) or the sides (as long as flatting them after the use).
Watch some vids on you tube how Japanese people use to sharpen blades - including togishi (katana polishers), you can learn a lot from them on using whetstones.
If the answer is no - get the sharpmaker.
Hope that helped.
I don't know much about microtech other than the reputation for high quality and the few I've handled definitely were. They also have a reputation for having VERY thick obtuse edges (big edge angles). The doubled edged ones in particular have given several members here a really rough time trying to get them sharp. If any of yours have edge angles greater than 20 degrees, the SharpMaker is the wrong tool for them until/unless they get reprofiled to lower angles.
I guess the good news is that most people aren't going to use the edge of a blade like that for much as far as I know. Seems more like a self defense and/or stabbing tool than an EDC cutting tool. The SM is a great system, but on obtuse edges, it's the wrong tool.
Good luck!
Brian.
I guess the good news is that most people aren't going to use the edge of a blade like that for much as far as I know. Seems more like a self defense and/or stabbing tool than an EDC cutting tool. The SM is a great system, but on obtuse edges, it's the wrong tool.
Good luck!
Brian.