- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
Ever since I started doing clay hardened blades, I get asked, "Why does that blade with the hamon cost as much as (or more than) your damascus blade?"
Well, for me, it's a heck of a lot of work!!!
It's pretty straight forward to show a hamon by etching a blade heavily in Ferric Chloride and then scrub the resulting oxides off, but getting it to come out with the look, and most importantly... AS CLEAN as I want, has proven nearly impossible. Again, that's for me, in my shop (OMMV). The majority of guys out there do just fine with that method!!!
So here's a little insight into what goes into a clay hardened blade in the Wheeler shop.
First I hand sand, and sand, and sand, and sand... Until I get to 2500 grit sand paper.
2500 is pretty shiny!!!
That's the camera lens and shop ceiling you see in the blade...
It has to be a SUPA' CLEAN 2500.... which is hard for me to do because even a tiny little movement while sanding will show. See the little "j-hooks" in this pic around my name? No good... those have to come out before you move on!
Well, for me, it's a heck of a lot of work!!!
It's pretty straight forward to show a hamon by etching a blade heavily in Ferric Chloride and then scrub the resulting oxides off, but getting it to come out with the look, and most importantly... AS CLEAN as I want, has proven nearly impossible. Again, that's for me, in my shop (OMMV). The majority of guys out there do just fine with that method!!!
So here's a little insight into what goes into a clay hardened blade in the Wheeler shop.
First I hand sand, and sand, and sand, and sand... Until I get to 2500 grit sand paper.
2500 is pretty shiny!!!
That's the camera lens and shop ceiling you see in the blade...
It has to be a SUPA' CLEAN 2500.... which is hard for me to do because even a tiny little movement while sanding will show. See the little "j-hooks" in this pic around my name? No good... those have to come out before you move on!
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