HF Bandsaw Blade Jumpin'

Burchtree

Burchtree

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Alrighty -- I bought a HF bandsaw a bit ago, but haven't used it. One thing I have found is that the blade likes to jump rail quite a bit. At first I thought it was because I was binding it, but it even does it on straight cuts. I've got that sucker tightned down as much as possible -- any suggestions?
 
The top wheel(for lack of a better term) needs to be adjusted.
On the back(outside)of the top wheel is an adjusting plate, follow the directions and it will be OK. You have to start with tension on the blade, and running, as you tilt the wheel with the adjusting nut, you also have to loosen the blade tension to keep it from being overtightened. It is not an exact science, but the blade back should be hard against the vertical lip of the top wheel.
Here's a couple of sites that have tips also.
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm

http://www.tinyisland.com/4x6bsFAQ.html
 
Tighten the heck out of it.....sorry Mike :D


Make sure the guides are letting the blade go all the way back. Also try adjusting the top wheel tilt. so it lets the blade ride nice and even. If its out of tilt it may want to push the blade one way or another when the blade is cutting. :D

Thats all the insight I have besides making sure the blade isnt the one that came with the saw.......If you need a manual go to HF.com and download one......

Hope that helped.....
 
thanks fellows.

Mike: You mean I have to read the instructions!! I'll do it, but don't tell anyone. :D
 
I dont remember the exact tension per pound bla bla......

but one of those links has info in there to wear gloves and crank the tension up. Then do as Mike says....read :D

Oh yeah....build you a neat lil stand if you have time :D
 
The tightining screw is made from aluminum or real soft steel.

If you tighten it really hard the screw WILL strip after repeated cycles. You'll be on the phone to Jet to replace it, and replacements aren't cheap. It happened to me.

I finally set the wheels and guides properly and now if the blade does occasionally "popoff"...it's usually my fault.

Al P
 
What Mike said. This will drive you crazy till you get it straightened out, but you can do it. Also make sure the guides are close to the blade; I have to adjust mine occasionally. And crank that baby down tight. Hand tight that is, wearing gloves. Unless you're real beefy you won't over tighten it. :D I strum the blade as I'm going until it lets off a sharp ping, then I know it's about right - and I give it one more hard turn.

One other thing. I don't know if it's still true but on mine the blade cover thumb screw went through a hole in the blade cover. I cut it out to make a slot so I don't have to remove the screw every time the blade pops off...
 
I used to worry about overtightening mine but I'm not sure it's possible just using your hands so I just crank it on down as tight as I can get it (and I always let off the tension when I'm done though).
 
I put on gloves and tighten it until my insides get all squishy...

Also, I found that using .035 bimetal blades, rather than the recommended .025 thickness, REALLY helps with the stability of the blade. Cut down on my 'pop-offs' by about 98%. Enco carries them. I had to loosen the top set of guide bearings a touch to fit it in, but the bottom pair didn't require it. I'm not sure if the blade is just that much stiffer or the tight fit in the bearings helps, but whatever it is it really helped.


Larry
 
Thanks fellows, I did a little adjusting and it seems to work a lot better. BTW -- what speed do you guys usually run yours at?

Dave -- I have no idea why they have that bolt there, but I left mine off. :D
 
I had mine on the middle wheel setting but after using it on the high speed thats where I leave it at. I am cutting 0-1 most of the time though. Pre anealed ground stock so its pretty soft to begin with......
 
I tighten mine up using a large pair of channel lock pliers. Tighten till it starts to sound like a guitar string.
 
Burchtree said:
................ BTW -- what speed do you guys usually run yours at?
Click to expand...


I use the fastest setting on the pulley, that's 200fpm. I saw mostly stainless, and found that it works best for me.
 
Just a couple of red herrings for you. I had a hole pile of trouble with mine a couple of blades ago.I don't much know how I fixed it. But what I did notice is if you loose a tooth or 2 it seams to be worse. Ech time it hit the spot where the teeth are missing. What I was told to do and it seemed to work is take the blade out and hold the cutting edge where the teeth are missing on the curve of the 10 inch grind/ sander wheel the curve of the wheel smooths the first tooth that comes into contact after the gap it is less likely to grab and jump off.

Throwing the blade may be an option but not when you are as tight as me.

One other time I had problems was when I was using cutting oil. I ended up cleaning it all off the blade and drive wheels.
 
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