- Joined
- Oct 6, 2002
- Messages
- 17
Hi everyone,
Have been reading here for years but never posted before.
I have an Everest Katana with initials L.B. which I believe to be made by Bura Kami. I have read that he is not well, I hope he recovers soon, I pray for this. He is a Master Craftsmen and a good honourable man from what I know of him.
I bought my Katana back in 2004 I think and I have a few questions about it.
The reason I bought this Katana is part of my "Best Bang for the Buck" collection. I have never had much money so try and spend it wisely.
My collection includes an HI Everest Katana...
My katana is 24.5" blade 10" handle. Have not weighed it accurately but about 1kg I think. Wooden handle with centre bulge and peened over end. Has battle bulge at tip, 5/16" spine and razor edge full length. It always rattled a little just before the guard but I plan to finally fix this soon with a little water thin epoxy resin poured in. This was the only fault with the piece as received and so I was extremely happy. I am not even sure I could buy one of these anymore since they tried to ban them in this country. But I was chatting to this guy:
http://www.raven-armoury.co.uk/
at a recent arms fair in London and it seems he got the law changed via the home office when they tried to ban swords a year or two ago. It would have put him out of business and so an exception was made for hand made swords so you can still buy them from him. I think the ban just applies to cheap imports mass manufactured. I am checking on this because I want to expand my HI collection in the future. But not willing to break the law to do so.
I have never test cut with my HI but will have my own garden soon so room to play
I live in UK and due to the corruption at the highest level and Evil running the show we have laws that prohibit katana wielding in public! Looking forward to setting up some tests in my new martial arts garden space 


Also as I will be moving away from all the rampant thieves that make hard working honest peoples lives a misery and I will be able to finally after 6 years have my BBFT$ collection on show in my games room
I was wondering, were the peened over tangs by L.B. rat tail or full ?
I guess they are probably full but I am not sure after seeing two styles, the pinned and the peened appearing on HI everest models. This has placed doubt in my mind as to which I have. Obviously mine is not pinned which suggests welded rod peened over, hope not though
I am sure both would be safe considering the HI heritage and the ethos of "workingtools" but I am trying to get rid of the doubt, as it not going to be easy to take it apart and have a look without destroying it. Which I am not willing to do! I love it too much!!
By the way I am so pleased with my version "made for me, found me by fate". Its balance is excellent!
I am 5'8" and the 24.5" blade hangs about 2-3 inches off floor at relaxed by side hold. Perfect for me. Swings wonderfull, regains control quickly, very lively in the hand. Handle is perfect for two or one handed use. Little heavy for one hand for me but bigger people no problem.
Scabbard is excellent, folded wood with leather cover and stitched. Real good quality. Top few stitches have been cut by frequent drawing practice in traditional blade up Samurai carry style. Would definately be better with a sacrificial cooper insert to protect the stitches last inch or so.
Overall I am very happy with this blade. I am into my katanas as a dedicated SHTF tool and would not hesitate to bet my life on it if required after reading the reviews. This version is more a Wakizashi/Katana cross at 24.5" blade but still too long for in house/restricted space use.
I am still trying to decide on the final piece for the collection a good fighting knife/machete for combination with the tomahawk. Cold Steel may get the shout with the recon tanto
at about $100 in carbon steel
but the spear point machete is in with a shout at $30 but the sheath is poor 
I am a little puzzled by the comments I have read here regarding edge on edge contact. I always believed the edge was left sharp for the cut, and blocks were made with the thicker spine or flats. Am I wrong in this ? I understand the theory behind what people are saying to a dulled blade, but it just seems to me that blocks with the already thick dulled parts makes sense, and the sharpened full length blade is perfect for a fast withdraw cut if your blade gets trapped. A dulled blade would achieve no more than friction burns in this scenario. My blade is so lively in the hand that I can easily reverse the edge to block if needed with the spine.
If anyone can tell me what kind of tang I have that would be great, it is the only question I have regarding this very fine blade. If anyone wants pictures I will post some
Best wishes to all...
Evolvingape
Have been reading here for years but never posted before.
I have an Everest Katana with initials L.B. which I believe to be made by Bura Kami. I have read that he is not well, I hope he recovers soon, I pray for this. He is a Master Craftsmen and a good honourable man from what I know of him.
I bought my Katana back in 2004 I think and I have a few questions about it.
The reason I bought this Katana is part of my "Best Bang for the Buck" collection. I have never had much money so try and spend it wisely.
My collection includes an HI Everest Katana...
My katana is 24.5" blade 10" handle. Have not weighed it accurately but about 1kg I think. Wooden handle with centre bulge and peened over end. Has battle bulge at tip, 5/16" spine and razor edge full length. It always rattled a little just before the guard but I plan to finally fix this soon with a little water thin epoxy resin poured in. This was the only fault with the piece as received and so I was extremely happy. I am not even sure I could buy one of these anymore since they tried to ban them in this country. But I was chatting to this guy:
http://www.raven-armoury.co.uk/
at a recent arms fair in London and it seems he got the law changed via the home office when they tried to ban swords a year or two ago. It would have put him out of business and so an exception was made for hand made swords so you can still buy them from him. I think the ban just applies to cheap imports mass manufactured. I am checking on this because I want to expand my HI collection in the future. But not willing to break the law to do so.
I have never test cut with my HI but will have my own garden soon so room to play




Also as I will be moving away from all the rampant thieves that make hard working honest peoples lives a misery and I will be able to finally after 6 years have my BBFT$ collection on show in my games room

I was wondering, were the peened over tangs by L.B. rat tail or full ?
I guess they are probably full but I am not sure after seeing two styles, the pinned and the peened appearing on HI everest models. This has placed doubt in my mind as to which I have. Obviously mine is not pinned which suggests welded rod peened over, hope not though

By the way I am so pleased with my version "made for me, found me by fate". Its balance is excellent!
I am 5'8" and the 24.5" blade hangs about 2-3 inches off floor at relaxed by side hold. Perfect for me. Swings wonderfull, regains control quickly, very lively in the hand. Handle is perfect for two or one handed use. Little heavy for one hand for me but bigger people no problem.
Scabbard is excellent, folded wood with leather cover and stitched. Real good quality. Top few stitches have been cut by frequent drawing practice in traditional blade up Samurai carry style. Would definately be better with a sacrificial cooper insert to protect the stitches last inch or so.
Overall I am very happy with this blade. I am into my katanas as a dedicated SHTF tool and would not hesitate to bet my life on it if required after reading the reviews. This version is more a Wakizashi/Katana cross at 24.5" blade but still too long for in house/restricted space use.
I am still trying to decide on the final piece for the collection a good fighting knife/machete for combination with the tomahawk. Cold Steel may get the shout with the recon tanto



I am a little puzzled by the comments I have read here regarding edge on edge contact. I always believed the edge was left sharp for the cut, and blocks were made with the thicker spine or flats. Am I wrong in this ? I understand the theory behind what people are saying to a dulled blade, but it just seems to me that blocks with the already thick dulled parts makes sense, and the sharpened full length blade is perfect for a fast withdraw cut if your blade gets trapped. A dulled blade would achieve no more than friction burns in this scenario. My blade is so lively in the hand that I can easily reverse the edge to block if needed with the spine.
If anyone can tell me what kind of tang I have that would be great, it is the only question I have regarding this very fine blade. If anyone wants pictures I will post some

Best wishes to all...
Evolvingape

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